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antimatter
Jun 13, 2003, 4:54 PM
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I'm planning to do the WF of The Leaning Tower in Yosemite and was wondering if it's very busy mid-week. I know it's a popular choice for a first wall (it's my first). If you've done the route, was it terribly busy? Did you have to come back another day? Wait in a long line? Any tips for getting on (get up early--duh, bivy at the base, etc.)?
Thanks.
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bigdan
Jun 13, 2003, 5:03 PM
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If the weather is nice, it's busy.
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iamthewallress
Jun 13, 2003, 5:23 PM
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Antimatter...Unfortunately, it doesn't need to be busy for you to find yourself waiting a whole day. One party in front of you is sufficient. My first time up there I spent the better part of a day waiting behind a soloist who after many hours fiddling with gear decided that he didn't have it in him to leave the anchor. So it goes. I spent the Saturday of Mem Day Weekend alone on Washington Column last year (though there were some people much higher up). Go figure. Give yourself a day or two of wiggle room.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 13, 2003, 10:38 PM
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I've done WFLT twice. Each time it was, to quote Big Ben Bowman from Eiger Sanction, "Busier than a one-legged man in an @ss-kicking contest"
The first time, we waited 1.5 days in line before heading up.
The second time, we shared Awahnee with another party, and had yet another party climbing up our backsides on the last day.
Definitely plan on a few buffer days, even mid week.
Nice bivy up near the start of the traversing ledge.
Brutus
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wonderbread
Jun 14, 2003, 4:38 AM
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It really fluctuates. It is best to be flexible, but that said, I've had some good luck on some of the so called crowded walls. We did the WF in a day a few Mays ago and had the entire Leaning Tower to ourselves. We saw no one. It can be more crowded than a Wisconsin Brat Fest or it could be as empty as a Wisconsin salad bar. Just kinda luck. Best to flexible and hope things go your way. Have fun, you'll love it(when it's over atleast!).
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spiffdog
Jun 17, 2003, 7:48 PM
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If you don't want to worry about traffic jams, I suggest a one day ascent. Don't worry if your not experienced, you actually need less technical knowledge to pull it off in one day than you need to do it in two (no hauling!!). Why bother carrying all that extra crap when you can get by with water, two ropes, and a rack? Leave the parking lot at midnight and you should be eating pizza at Curry by 9 PM. A scouting trip to the base to drop off water is helpful for navigation purposes as well. Just bring good headlamps! If you move quickly through the bolt ladders, you should be past Awahnee before anyone wakes up, which means clear sailing to the top.
-Spiff
P.S.-Don't skimp on water!!! Forget real food, just energy bars.
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antimatter
Jun 17, 2003, 8:30 PM
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Good tip. Blasting it does sound like fun. However, I want the experience of hauling, etc. to prepare for something bigger and better. Speaking of Ahwanee Ledge, we're not planning on bringing a porta-ledge, how wise does that sound?
Thanks.
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wonderbread
Jun 18, 2003, 2:32 AM
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In reply to: we're not planning on bringing a porta-ledge, how wise does that sound?
Very wise, don't bring it.
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flamer
Jun 18, 2003, 3:25 AM
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Agreed,
As long as there's no one else on ahwanee you'll have a very plush bivi.
josh
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brutusofwyde
Jun 19, 2003, 1:01 AM
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Awahnee can easily accomodate 2 parties, with room to spare.
Yesterday in the Valley I heard that there is a bear frequenting the base of Leaning Tower, trashing haul bags & gear even if they contain no food. Word to the Wyse.
Brutus
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antimatter
Jul 8, 2003, 10:31 PM
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The weather was a bit too hot for about 3 hrs a day but we had 1.25 gals water each per day. Other than the heat, the suffering was relatively mild. We spent 3 days getting up and then just kicked back on the stellar ledge at the end of day 3. At the top, the views of El Cap & The Valley are spectacular. Fantastic climbing too--great exposure & position.
After massive drinking & eating (to reduce the pig's weight) and a long nights rest, we made a quick descent down the chimney rappels and then back to the car. Curry pizza & beer never tasted so good.
Thanks to all for the Beta!
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iamthewallress
Jul 8, 2003, 10:40 PM
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Congratulations on your send! Three days on Leaning Tower with plenty of food and water sound pretty darn close to heaven from where I sit right now.
Any crowds?
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epic_ed
Jul 9, 2003, 12:22 AM
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Nice job! Good to hear things worked out well. How bout a TR?
Ed
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moabbeth
Jul 9, 2003, 1:25 AM
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I had some Camp 4 buddies climb it Thurs/Friday of last week and they got right on it (was the first wall for three of the 4 guys). They made it down by Saturday. Considering it was the 4th of July weekend and they got right on that's a good thing. But it varies. Hell, I was helping do base support for my man a couple weeks ago at Shortest Straw next to Zodiac. From Monday thru Thursday of that week not one person came near Zodiac. Then on a Friday morning 2 parties showed up within about 90 minutes of of each other and got on the route back to back so it just varies.
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antimatter
Jul 9, 2003, 3:00 AM
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In reply to: Congratulations on your send! Three days on Leaning Tower with plenty of food and water sound pretty darn close to heaven from where I sit right now. Any crowds?
Thanks, it was sweet. I'm definitely "hooked" on walls now.
No crowds at all, we met one party at the base that bailed. Another party was behind us but they were never close enough to talk to.
In reply to: Nice job! Good to hear things worked out well. How bout a TR? Ed
Thanks, just got the pictures back today. A TR is in the works now!
In reply to: I had some Camp 4 buddies climb it Thurs/Friday of last week and they got right on it (was the first wall for three of the 4 guys). They made it down by Saturday. Considering it was the 4th of July weekend and they got right on that's a good thing.
Wow, they must have been the ones we could occasionally hear. We climbed it Jul 2-4, Weds-Fri and then took it easy, spending the night on the last ledge on Fri before coming down Sat.
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moabbeth
Jul 9, 2003, 3:39 AM
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Yep antimatter, probably was them. Did one guy sound like he really knew what he was doing and the others were kinda shouting questions? My friend was the only wall vet, he was taking up three guys on their first wall (well, one of the three exaggerated some wall experience and that was unfortunately discovered early on :lol: ). My buddy was telling me some great stories about that one, one of the newbies was really great, trying really hard and absorbing the knowlege. While another guy complained about being hot so instead of working on the lines and getting sheeit done he tried to build a "sun shelter" out of sleeping bags so he wouldn't have to actually work in the mean old hot sun...same guy also on the last day couldn't haul a bag line because he had a sore finger No joke, he pulled on the line about three times and said "I can't do this anymore, my finger hurts. Can someone else do this." HELLO? No cuts, no bruises, just a little owie. Oh well. Walls aren't for everyone I guess. My pal is a saint, I would have told him to nut it up and be a man and quite 'cher whining :wink: .
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antimatter
Jul 9, 2003, 4:46 AM
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In reply to: Yep antimatter, probably was them. Did one guy sound like he really knew what he was doing and the others were kinda shouting questions? My friend was the only wall vet, he was taking up three guys on their first wall (well, one of the three exaggerated some wall experience and that was unfortunately discovered early on :lol: ). My buddy was telling me some great stories about that one, one of the newbies was really great, trying really hard and absorbing the knowlege. While another guy complained about being hot so instead of working on the lines and getting sheeit done he tried to build a "sun shelter" out of sleeping bags so he wouldn't have to actually work in the mean old hot sun...same guy also on the last day couldn't haul a bag line because he had a sore finger No joke, he pulled on the line about three times and said "I can't do this anymore, my finger hurts. Can someone else do this." HELLO? No cuts, no bruises, just a little owie. Oh well. Walls aren't for everyone I guess. My pal is a saint, I would have told him to nut it up and be a man and quite 'cher whining :wink: .
Hahaha! Now that's a TR, he should write it up! I got a gnarly bruise on the inside of my leg from my aider but who cares?! I'm on a wall! Yeah, it ain't for everyone I guess.
Unfortunately, we could not really hear them, I just kept hearing, "OFF BELAY!" My partner said he was able to see them from the top of P7? while they were on Ahwanee ledge.
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climbingcowboy
Jul 9, 2003, 5:57 AM
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Congrats bro i cant wait to read the TR and see some pics. Did you free climb much or just aid?
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artm
Jul 9, 2003, 4:12 PM
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Mark,
Hey congrats on your first wall.......did you take Dawn with you?
One of the guys in my gym frequently does walls with his wife when he's not soloing.
p.s. Stop following me around.
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antimatter
Jul 9, 2003, 8:17 PM
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Here's a trip report with pictures. If it's too slow to load, let me know and I'll post the text only. It's going into my club's newsletter so ignore the funky page numbering.
http://www.chequemate.com/climbing/TRWFLTWhalingYoung.pdf
In reply to: Mark, Hey congrats on your first wall.......did you take Dawn with you? One of the guys in my gym frequently does walls with his wife when he's not soloing.
No way, she'd make me haul her up with the Pig and clean my own pitches. Way too much work!
In reply to: p.s. Stop following me around.
Never. How was your trip?
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flamer
Jul 9, 2003, 8:17 PM
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Always good to hear about someone making it up a route- especially when they have fun doing it! Is there anything more important then having a good time climbing?
Congratulations!
josh
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epic_ed
Jul 9, 2003, 9:09 PM
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Nice TR and great photos! You guys moved really well for first timers.
Ed
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climbingcowboy
Jul 10, 2003, 5:40 AM
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I'm jealous, nice job on the TR and photos.
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simzboardr
Jul 12, 2003, 8:26 PM
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hey guys great job with the first wall. I'm feeling your excitement, my partner and i are leaving on the 23rd to go out to climb the west face. Its going to be our first wall too.
Great trip report! I'll have to watch out for those cats i guess.
Congratulations again!
Pete
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flamer
Jul 14, 2003, 5:41 PM
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LOL! Most of the popular ledge's in the valley smell like piss! At least there wasn't a big pile of sh*t on Guano, like there was when I was up there!!
josh
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