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crazykid
Jul 11, 2003, 2:58 PM
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I'm buying my first belay device and I was wondering which kind to get. Whether I should get a figure 8 or not and also which brands are the best. Hopefully nothing thats way too expensive.
Thanks
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angelaa
Jul 11, 2003, 3:09 PM
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go with an ATC.
they are the basic belay device and the last one I bought cost around $20.
Go to any climbing shop and they should have a selection of belay devices that include the ATC.
figure 8's are for rapellers - most climbers don't use them because they can kink the rope up (more).
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markanite
Jul 11, 2003, 3:09 PM
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No. Most people either use an ATC device or a gri gri these days. Esp. for gym, TRing and sport.
I recommend an ATC device. The one from Black Diamond is good. Should cost around 14 bucks. The gri gri is a nice device but be prepared to pay 5 fold the cost of an ATC. The advantage of the gri gri is that if your partner isnt capable (or simply doesnt) do anything (for example if he/she is knocked out by a falling rock) the device will kick in and stop you anyway.
Personally I use the ATC device.
Check out:
http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=13192165&parent_category_rn=4500695
Mark
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robbovius
Jul 11, 2003, 3:15 PM
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Black Diamond ATC, $16.95. The standard. these things are so common you fairly can't walk down the approach trail without tripping over them.
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cracklover
Jul 11, 2003, 3:53 PM
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In reply to: I'm buying my first belay device and I was wondering which kind to get. Whether I should get a figure 8 or not and also which brands are the best. Hopefully nothing thats way too expensive. Thanks
Cheers!
GO
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kman
Jul 11, 2003, 3:59 PM
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In reply to: The advantage of the gri gri is that if your partner isnt capable...
If they are not capable then they should not be belaying with any device!! Atc all the way.
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petsfed
Jul 11, 2003, 4:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The advantage of the gri gri is that if your partner isnt capable... If they are not capable then they should not be belaying with any device!! Atc all the way.
Perhaps the operative word here should be "incapacitated". In any event, proper Gri-Gri operation in a lead situation is not for the beginner. Gri-Gri's are nearly idiot proof, but ironically, that's what makes them so prone to failure in inexperienced hands. They require a neuroses when it comes to double checking gear (as opposed to a quick glance for glaring errors) and skilled belayer. It is very easy to give a huge sport loop, or conversely not enough slack with the Gri-Gri as its harder to feet rope quickly with it.
If you're getting your first device, get a tube device (BD ATC, Trango Pyramid, Petzl Reverso, etc.) as it will teach you everything you need to know about belaying, but not overcomplicate with mechanical devices.
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watersprite
Jul 11, 2003, 9:34 PM
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bump
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baalzimon
Jul 11, 2003, 9:38 PM
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Reverso. smoother and more versatile than an ATC.
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watersprite
Jul 11, 2003, 9:40 PM
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is it expensive? I thought it was like a Gri-gri.
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jman
Jul 11, 2003, 9:49 PM
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If you haven't bought a harness yet, I'd say grab an intro package that many of the gear manufacturer's have....they usually come with harness, tube type belay device, 'biner, and chalk bag.
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watersprite
Jul 11, 2003, 9:52 PM
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I have an ATC, three magic 8's, 2 prs of shoes, harness, a cordelette, two nuts and a big hex. some rack, eh?
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rockzen
Jul 11, 2003, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: I'm buying my first belay device and I was wondering which kind to get. Whether I should get a figure 8 or not and also which brands are the best. Hopefully nothing thats way too expensive. Thanks
I only use my Figure-8 for rapelling. I use and ATC for belaying. BDs is pretty good. I find some of the other tube belay devices kink or snag, but I've only tried a couple different ones.
RockZen
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cjcalls
Jul 11, 2003, 9:58 PM
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In reply to: I have an ATC, three magic 8's, 2 prs of shoes, harness, a cordelette, two nuts and a big hex. some rack, eh?
I thought guys only bragged about thier nuts and BIG hex? :twisted:
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perozee
Jul 11, 2003, 10:00 PM
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My suggestion would be the "reverso" from Petzl. It is multi purpose and does a better job than traditional ATCs(Smoother feed).
If you have alot of cash, go for the "Gri Gri" from Petzl. Again a very multi purpose device with the added feature of autolocking if Belayer gets knock out... I also use it to self belay...
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cjcalls
Jul 13, 2003, 4:36 AM
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Go with the body belay.
It's cheap and you will never lose it.
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brutusofwyde
Jul 13, 2003, 4:54 AM
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In reply to: Go with the body belay. It's cheap and you will never lose it.
Although probably in jest, there is merit in this suggestion.
When I teach beginners, the first thing I teach is an anchored hip belay, and the correct orientation of the anchor strand vs. the belay rope for belaying a leader vs. belaying a second.
Next thing to learn is a Munter belay.
After that, we move on to using a tube type device (everyone has their own preferences)
Once these are mastered, proper use of Grigri, gigi, or reverso devices is next.
I personally don't use Eight-type devices -- they twist the rope when rapelling, are too heavy, and cannot be set up without unclipping them. (Every Figure Eight I own I bootied from the bottom of cliffs, where they had been dropped.)
Brutus
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cjcalls
Jul 13, 2003, 5:11 AM
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actully I was serious.
you need to know some basics for when the worst happens.
like you are going to bail off a bolt because the route has scared the sh-t out of you and as you are rigging the rope you drop your belay device.
besides if you are a true dirtbag climber... you don't need all of those gadgets
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oudinardin
Jul 13, 2003, 6:04 AM
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What is a belay device?
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apollodorus
Jul 13, 2003, 6:57 AM
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In reply to: What is a belay device?
A device for belaying. Ha!
http://www.bdel.com/gear/rock/atc.php
ATC is a trademark of Black Diamond, and stands for Air Traffic Controller. It is now used generically to mean any tube-type belay thingy that a loop of rope goes through and then gets clipped to a strong locker attached to the belayer's harness.
The Gri-Gri is not good as a first belay device. You can't rap a doubled rope with it. And it's way too heavy for most sport and trad work. The ATC and its variants are the way to go.
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snowrocker
Jul 14, 2003, 12:06 AM
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ATC
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skiorclimb
Jul 14, 2003, 2:56 AM
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I bought the Metolius BRD first, I didn't like the way it payed out slack. It also always needed to be coxed on lowers/repels.
I now use the Trango atc, I pays out nice and smooth. It also has plenty of holding power. It dose heat up a little more than the BRD, but not to the point were I would be concerned.
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pico23
Jul 14, 2003, 3:47 AM
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In reply to: is it expensive? I thought it was like a Gri-gri.
The reverso is like a ATC and it's about $20. However, if you only need a ATC just buy an ATC or ATC-XP. The reverso doesn't really do anything special for single pitch or top roping. It excels in other areas though such as bringing up a second or two seconds on double ropes since it autoblocks (but is tricky to feed slack). It can be used as an ascender. It can be flipped for additional rappel friction. It works better with thin ropes.
I use my ATC and a munter unless I am using doubles or bringing up two seconds at once.
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coldclimb
Jul 14, 2003, 4:21 AM
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reverso, because it's the same simple design as the ATC and works the same, but with a few things extra, and only a dollar or two more out of your pocket. I love it.
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dnruss
Jul 14, 2003, 4:56 AM
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trango belay.....best one hands down.....
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