|
wonderwoman
Jul 11, 2003, 8:36 PM
Post #1 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
I watched (in total horror) as my boyfriend fell about 10 - 15 ft off a roof and and bounced off a ledge while sport climbing this weekend. We let him and the rope rest for a bit before lowering him off the climb and giving him first aid.
We got him x-rayed and thankfully he is only limping around with a sprained ankle. We were foolish enough to keep climbing a few days later (he fell on the first day of our climbing vacation). Now our rope kinks up more than I have ever seen. We have flaked it out, rappelled off high climbs and still it kinks up like crazy on one end!
Is this related to his fall? What can be done to unkink the rope? I am hoping that we did not structurally damage it somehow. Any ideas on what we can do to unkink itt or if it should be retired.
thanks,
tiff
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
killclimbz
Jul 11, 2003, 9:13 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2000
Posts: 1964
|
Bonk! Ouch! Sounds like a good fall. Nothing more exciting then bouncing off of a ledge. I've done it myself more than once in my climbing career. Take it with a grain of salt. He's not seriously injured, use it as a learning experience on what not to do.
As far as the kinks go on the rope, it's probably nothing. Ropes tend to get wound up, especially when sport climbing. The easiest way to alleviate this is to pull the rope through the long way when cleaning your route. This will allow the rope to unwind and relax some. It's not a bad idea to let the end hang freely just off the ground for a minute before pulling it through. Doing this every other climb or so will greatly reduce the problem.
Do go over your rope and make sure you don't have any tears in the sheath or hourglass deformities in the rope. Sounds like he took a nasty fall and some rope damage is possible. Retire it if there is rope damage or at least cut the rope at the damaged section if it is on a short end.
Good luck and get back out there.
|
|
|
|
|
jonesn
Jul 11, 2003, 9:16 PM
Post #4 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2003
Posts: 1
|
This isn't an answer, just a question. How do y'all prefer to coil/store/transport your ropes? Mine always ends up with twists and stuff in it, and half the time I end up with a 60m knot. I usually coil mine around my foot and thigh. Probably not the well known way to do things, but I've never been around a climber more experianced than myself, which isn't saying much. There aren't too many of us out here in IA. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
killclimbz
Jul 11, 2003, 9:20 PM
Post #5 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2000
Posts: 1964
|
In reply to: Sorry - this isn't an answer, just another question. How do y'all prefer to coil/store/transport your ropes? Mine always ends up with twists and stuff in it, and half the time I end up with a 60m knot. I usually coil mine around my foot and thigh. Probably not the well known way to do things, but I've never been around a climber more experianced than myself, which isn't saying much. There aren't too many of us out here in IA. Thanks!
The butterfly coil is a good way to coil your rope. It does not twist much and coverts to a handy back pack for carrying your rope. Better yet, get a rope bag. Then you just pile the rope on top of itself and it is ready to go right out of the bag.
|
|
|
|
|
mike_ok
Jul 11, 2003, 9:29 PM
Post #6 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 345
|
I used to flake my rope out at the end of every day. I used the behind the neck-holding the rope in both hands technique... I'm guessing thats the butterfly. The end result? I had a knot in it everytime I opened it up the next day. I started stuffing the rope into the bag, no flaking or organization. The result? The rope comes out clean everytime... go figure.
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Jul 11, 2003, 9:43 PM
Post #7 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
I am happy to say that my rope does not look like the above pictures! It's twisted on one end, and I assume it was the end he was tied into when he fell. Not fat, frayed or mishapen. just crazily loopily twisted!
We have a rope bag and usually we will flake it out and place it in. We were a little rushed after he fell, so I just threw it in the bag after we were sure he was okay. But we did flake it out before climbing again.
I bought the bag with this rope. But I do the back pack style coil when we bring along the second rope. I throw it over my pack and it fits comfortably. Plus I can always find the middle and ends!
Thanks for all the help.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Jul 11, 2003, 10:14 PM
Post #8 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
Just one thing, you said that you went rappelling on it later, what did you use to rappel with? If it was a figure eight these are notorious for twisting and kinking ropes.
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Jul 12, 2003, 12:20 AM
Post #9 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
We used an ATC to rapel.
Funny, though... the climber next to us said 'How did you get so many kinks in that thing? Did you use a figure eight?'
|
|
|
|
|
pehperboy
Jul 13, 2003, 5:27 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2003
Posts: 871
|
I'm told, and intend to try myself as my 50-metre Blue Water has the same problem, the best thing to do is find a high bridge or balcony where I can play the whole rope out with about 20 pounds attached to the end. Just let it stretch and twirl and repeat as necessary until the kinks are out. I was also told this is a good idea to do with new ropes.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Jul 13, 2003, 6:26 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
When you got your rope from the store, it was in a coil that was made by winding it onto a spool, then sliding it off. Most people just pull the coil apart, which is similar to taking a spring and stretching it. If you didn't unwind/unroll the coil to reverse the spooling process, it would have twists in it. If you load a rope that has twists in it, you can permanently kink it.
You might be able to work the kinks towards the very end of the rope, and maybe cut off the melted end to get rid of them.
So, the next time you buy a rope, tie one end to a tree in a park, and walk backwards while unrolling the coil over your forearms. Or find a place to hang the rope freely so that it can untwist as you uncoil it.
Rapping with figure-8s and munter hitches both kink the schnitt out of ropes.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jul 15, 2003, 4:32 PM
Post #12 of 12
(1880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
I'd re-emphasize pulling the rope through anchors the long way on sport climbs, this tends to work out the kinks you're talking about. And uncoiling the rope properly when you first get it is a must if you don't want a permanent twisting headache on your hands.
|
|
|
|
|
|
