Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
RB's?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


beyond_gravity


Jan 20, 2002, 6:05 PM
Post #1 of 6 (1325 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5078

RB's?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In Theory they should work great. But then again, so should comunisum. When i've practised aid climbing indoors, i've had the disc part slip off the nut part, they have pull on me twice. Personally, i think you should pay the extra $20 and get some cams.


kagunkie


Jan 21, 2002, 8:37 AM
Post #2 of 6 (1325 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2000
Posts: 731

RB's? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Whats an RB? Forgive ny ignorance but...


faphantom


Jan 21, 2002, 10:14 AM
Post #3 of 6 (1324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2001
Posts: 30

RB's? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

FA Phantom uses em'
and so do his buddies.
I (and WE) don't really see them as an opportunity to save money for sport cragging areas- but more for FA possibilities and aid options.
Are teh strong enough? Strong as the rock you place them in- sometimes rated stronger than a bolt. Have I fallen/hung on them ? yes- even in limestone and sandstone. They are bomber...but I wouldn't suggest going out and buying a set unless you have a REAL purpose for using them. I use them on Groundup FA's when I don't wanna be slamming in bolts all over the place. Sometimes it's hard to find the hole later(especially at cruxes)...but for redpoints, I rap and mark it with a little chalk. I also use them to set up ground anchors when rope soloing at my local crag and there are no natural anchors visible...then I plug them up when I am done so they are invisible.
They are ALSO nice for placing in between bolts on long steep sport route development(potrero chico).
any more questions about RB's (removable bolts- spring loaded camming devices that can be placed in holes drilled from 1/4 inch to 5/8"- considered just as bomber as bolts...but not as well liked because of their invisibility and possibility of having to leave the whole device if you bail.)?

F.A. Phantom


wigglestick


Jan 22, 2002, 7:08 AM
Post #4 of 6 (1324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235

RB's? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Kagunkie- RB=Removable Bolts. I think Climb Tech or somebody like that uses them. I think if you drill a hole deep enough to place a RB you should suck it up and quit being such a cheapskate and leave a bolt and hangar as well.


faphantom


Jan 22, 2002, 8:42 AM
Post #5 of 6 (1324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2001
Posts: 30

RB's? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

puppy- very, very funny! sadly, the angle on RB holes is downward as to not bend the cable too shaprly over th edge...so maybe you could cram a stogie in there and it would stay. If you are wanting to skip the hole without placing your RB, it also makes a great "pinky undercling".
Wigglestick- Very good point about the hanger cost, and I agree, except that hanger/bolts are not always acceptable in some areas AND sometimes the route doesn't need to see numerous repeats by John Q. Public. I like to link up traverses and meandering routes with other established routes using a hidden lil' RB hole that only I and anyone with me knows about...
OOH, so Sneeaky!

F.A. Phantom


kagunkie


Jan 23, 2002, 7:51 PM
Post #6 of 6 (1324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2000
Posts: 731

RB's? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for answering my question Wiggle. I dont really have a steadfast opinion on these devises but i do tend to be a little less reserved about their use simply because theres no hanger visible, but you do still have to drill a hole so it is altering the rock to create a placement where there is none naturally. Therefore its not going to be my first choice.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook