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kansasclimber
Jul 15, 2003, 3:29 AM
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WHAT do you do with the rope exactly?? do you butterfly it over your leg? Put it one large loop? Any certain coil you would use, and where would you put the rope?? thanks
CLIMBON
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kindredlion
Jul 15, 2003, 3:47 AM
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I assume the scenario is traditional free climbing, and there are two of you...
EVERYTHING IS SITUATIONAL
Did I say that!?!?
:roll:
'nyways...
Do what works for you...
Try and stay top to bottom.
here are some suggestions to supplement your already good ideas...
If you have more pitches to climb, and the second will be swapping leads, it is nice to butterfly your rope over your daisy (anchor tie-in point), or your knee, if its a hanging belay..
ever heard of a rope bucket? rope hook?
these devices can be used either in a hanging or a free sitting/moving environment..
The bucket is simply that; a bucket.. You stack/pile/flake your rope into it as your climber approaches you.. Once she gets there, she is already on the lead end of the rope... and there was much rejoicing :roll: yaay
The hook; hold on to your hats... Its a hook! Basically a piece of webbing (nylon sling) that is reinforced with a wire or metal band slipped into it and curved to hold a rope. (sound complicated.. its not.. )look here
'nyhoo, flake the rope into it just like you would a lap coil, and voila!
What if you're not hanging? well tha's easy... make a stack do whatever, pile the rope under yer boney butt, so's you don't chafe your delicate undersides ;) Ever sat on cold granite, while trying to stay warm?
The possibilities are many, and one must adapt to any surroundings..
So try everything.. read books... and mostly; don't EVER curse at your rope.
If you're nice I may share my "Bastard Loop" theory..
take air, (at a slow to medium pace)
adam
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apollodorus
Jul 15, 2003, 4:15 AM
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If the belay is on a ledge, just butterfly flake the rope there, where you won't step on it.
When you butterfly the rope at a tiny stance or hanging belay, put a sling around it and clip both ends (don't use a girth hitch). That will help to hold the loops from moving; once one moves down a little bit, it will pull the other side and before you know it, the entire rope. You'll have to keep half an eye open, though, as you feed it out to make sure you don't pull out a big snarl of coils.
The best thing for walls are rope bags. For trad climbs, they're a bit too much to mess with, though.
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pico23
Jul 15, 2003, 4:47 AM
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Completely situational. It's been covered thoroughly.
The rope hook is kind of expensive and kind of pointless ofr a single rope managment. I use mine that I paid $2 for on clearance to dry my ropes. It could be useful in the right situations but it's another piece of gear to carry.
Typically I butterfly over the tie in on ledgless belays, crowded belays or just if I feel like it. I don't use a daisy, just another link in the system, just another piece of gear to carry. I just tie in to the rope with a clove and usually back that up with a overhand or 8 a few feet back. If there is a ledge I might and my partner is cranking I'll often just let the rope coil on the ground. If he's leading the next pitch off he goes. If I'm leading the next pitch a flippable coil is preferable so I try to make it neat. if the face is completely clean you can just let the rope hang but it's a bad habbit because it might get stuck or get in the way of other climbers.
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climbsomething
Jul 15, 2003, 4:53 AM
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This is the second time in less than a week that I've seen the adjective "multi-pitch" morphed into a verb tense. :roll: ...Yep, guess I'm "Grammar Naziing," hmm? :P
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dingus
Jul 15, 2003, 5:04 AM
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One piece of advice...
When you're looping that rope over your lap, or over your leg, or your tie in point, or though a runner extended off the anchor, or over the haul bag, or over a boulder, whatever... start with the longest loop to each side first, and then make each subsequent loop shorter than the one that preceded it. Like a pyramid of sorts, get it? Don't let em go so low they catch on something and get stuck either.
That way, when the 2nd comes up and the lead switches over and you continue your belay duties, as you draw the rope up to feed out, the loops feed smoothly. If you let the loops go too long, when you feed them back up they typically ride up under earlier loops. They can elicit curses if the resulting gordian knot surprises you by bumping into the belay device in the middle of a long runnout. That sucks for everyone involved!
DMT
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rrrADAM
Jul 15, 2003, 3:25 PM
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I do one of two things:
Primarily, I attach a shoulder length sling to the hot point of my anchor and butterfly it through there, starting in long loops getting progressively smaller. This way it will pull from there with ease, and I do not have to hold it.
Or I will butterfly it over my foot.
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timstich
Jul 15, 2003, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: ....If you let the loops go too long, when you feed them back up they typically ride up under earlier loops. They can elicit curses if the resulting gordian knot surprises you by bumping into the belay device in the middle of a long runnout. That sucks for everyone involved! DMT
Above advice is effective at reducing the occurances of F-bombs as well. Although I can't show you what an f-bomb is here, you can probably figure it out. Rymes with "luck." Now if I could only remember to do that pyramid thing correctly...
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tenn_dawg
Jul 15, 2003, 4:16 PM
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I usually flake it over my foot as well. The problem is that if you have to move in a hurry, you can drop your whole rope stack down the face. No big deal if the face is clean, but if it isin't your rope WILL get hung up somewhere.
Therefore, if there is a good chance of my rope getting hung if I drop it, I'll flake it through a sling hanging from the anchor to about chest level on me.
As was said above, it is highly situational.
Travis
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ambler
Jul 15, 2003, 4:45 PM
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In reply to: This is the second time in less than a week that I've seen the adjective "multi-pitch" morphed into a verb tense. :roll: ...Yep, guess I'm "Grammar Naziing," hmm? :P |
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flamer
Jul 15, 2003, 7:15 PM
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This topic was discussed at lenght not long ago in the TRAD form, DO A SEARCH!
josh
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dingus
Jul 15, 2003, 7:20 PM
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In reply to: This topic was discussed at lenght not long ago in the TRAD form, DO A SEARCH! josh
Most every thing under the sun in climbing has been discussed years ago on rec.climbing, ad nauseum. Sliced, diced and gone over with a fine toothed flame comb.
So what?
Certain topics will recycle. Nature of the beast I'm afraid. If that causes you annoyance and grief, TS.
DMT
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flamer
Jul 15, 2003, 7:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: This topic was discussed at lenght not long ago in the TRAD form, DO A SEARCH! josh Most every thing under the sun in climbing has been discussed years ago on rec.climbing, ad nauseum. Sliced, diced and gone over with a fine toothed flame comb. So what? Certain topics will recycle. Nature of the beast I'm afraid. If that causes you annoyance and grief, TS. DMT
Agreed! However, a number of folks took the time to write some great response's, less than a month ago. I would guess that they don't want to take the time again. SO If The poster of this thread would like to see some of the great tips some people had- then doing a search would be beneficial! If you don't like my comments- TS.
josh
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dingus
Jul 15, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to: Agreed! However, a number of folks took the time to write some great response's, less than a month ago. I would guess that they don't want to take the time again. SO If The poster of this thread would like to see some of the great tips some people had- then doing a search would be beneficial! If you don't like my comments- TS. josh
Great point Josh. If you don't like my compliment, TS. (insert appropriate smiley face here)
Cheers,
DMT
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flamer
Jul 15, 2003, 8:40 PM
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Dingus,
In between the 2 of us TSing each other I'm laughing my ass off! Carry on!
josh
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