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beyond_gravity
Jan 21, 2002, 2:05 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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In Theory they should work great. But then again, so should comunisum. When i've practised aid climbing indoors, i've had the disc part slip off the nut part, they have pull on me twice. Personally, i think you should pay the extra $20 and get some cams.
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kagunkie
Jan 21, 2002, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2000
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Whats an RB? Forgive ny ignorance but...
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faphantom
Jan 21, 2002, 6:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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FA Phantom uses em' and so do his buddies. I (and WE) don't really see them as an opportunity to save money for sport cragging areas- but more for FA possibilities and aid options. Are teh strong enough? Strong as the rock you place them in- sometimes rated stronger than a bolt. Have I fallen/hung on them ? yes- even in limestone and sandstone. They are bomber...but I wouldn't suggest going out and buying a set unless you have a REAL purpose for using them. I use them on Groundup FA's when I don't wanna be slamming in bolts all over the place. Sometimes it's hard to find the hole later(especially at cruxes)...but for redpoints, I rap and mark it with a little chalk. I also use them to set up ground anchors when rope soloing at my local crag and there are no natural anchors visible...then I plug them up when I am done so they are invisible. They are ALSO nice for placing in between bolts on long steep sport route development(potrero chico). any more questions about RB's (removable bolts- spring loaded camming devices that can be placed in holes drilled from 1/4 inch to 5/8"- considered just as bomber as bolts...but not as well liked because of their invisibility and possibility of having to leave the whole device if you bail.)? F.A. Phantom
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wigglestick
Jan 22, 2002, 3:08 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Kagunkie- RB=Removable Bolts. I think Climb Tech or somebody like that uses them. I think if you drill a hole deep enough to place a RB you should suck it up and quit being such a cheapskate and leave a bolt and hangar as well.
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faphantom
Jan 22, 2002, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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puppy- very, very funny! sadly, the angle on RB holes is downward as to not bend the cable too shaprly over th edge...so maybe you could cram a stogie in there and it would stay. If you are wanting to skip the hole without placing your RB, it also makes a great "pinky undercling". Wigglestick- Very good point about the hanger cost, and I agree, except that hanger/bolts are not always acceptable in some areas AND sometimes the route doesn't need to see numerous repeats by John Q. Public. I like to link up traverses and meandering routes with other established routes using a hidden lil' RB hole that only I and anyone with me knows about... OOH, so Sneeaky! F.A. Phantom
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kagunkie
Jan 24, 2002, 3:51 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2000
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Thanks for answering my question Wiggle. I dont really have a steadfast opinion on these devises but i do tend to be a little less reserved about their use simply because theres no hanger visible, but you do still have to drill a hole so it is altering the rock to create a placement where there is none naturally. Therefore its not going to be my first choice.
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