|
boretribe
Jan 22, 2002, 4:14 AM
Post #1 of 43
(23228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2002
Posts: 208
|
I had previously posted this to the 'Technique and Training' forum and somebody suggested I check here.
I'm interested in getting a Silent Partner for TR. I would love to be able to set up the rope and just climb up and down a route until I have it totally wired (or my limbs fail). This isn't really something a belayer would be jumping up and down to do. More important is the fact that I love to climb by myself which is why I boulder most of the time (free soloing is out of the question). I've read the literature from Wren Industries and feel fairly comfortable with the rigging (including clipping into back-up knots).
Just wondering if any of you have had any experience with this set-up. What are your opinions on solo top roping? Is it relatively safe (there are always risks with climbing)? etc..
[ This Message was edited by: boretribe on 2002-01-21 20:15 ]
|
|
|
|
|
ryanguy
Jan 22, 2002, 4:54 AM
Post #2 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 6, 2001
Posts: 40
|
In my opinion solo top-roping is quite safe. There was a forum about this that covers much of what you are looking for and I put my two cents on it as well.
I have never used the silent partner but it looks good. I've been using the Soloist (also by Wren Industries) for the past 5 years for basically the same purpose as you, TRing without the need to drag a belayer into it. I've been doing this when cleaning new routes to work out the route so I've also done a lot of hang-dogging and it is fine for that too. For the Soloist you do need a chest harness but two slings work great. It is also a much cheaper device and you can rappel with it. I am pretty sure it self-feeds much the same way as the Silent Partner. There is the danger of the Soloist not locking if you fall upside-down but how often does that happen (never has for me). The knots below on the rope will also back up a fall in any case.
Solo climbing using these devices is relatively safe if done properly. The only real danger is in the unforseen accident ie. if you are rendered unconscious by falling rock and there is no one else around to call for help. This has always been my greatest fear about climbing alone.
Hope this helps.
[ This Message was edited by: ryanguy on 2002-01-21 20:55 ]
|
|
|
|
|
pianomahnn
Jan 22, 2002, 5:50 AM
Post #3 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2001
Posts: 3779
|
Nothing to add except I was the guy who did the suggesting to post here.
|
|
|
|
|
newbieclimber
Jan 23, 2002, 1:25 AM
Post #4 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2001
Posts: 129
|
save your money and use a gri-gri for TR soloing. you can back it up by clipping into overhands on a bight every 15 feet, or you can set up the gri-gri to self feed by slightly weighting the end of the rope. then back it up with a loose prussik tied above the gri-gri. as the gri-gri slides up the rope it will slide the prussik up. the second method is much less cumbersome than tying into overhands.
silent partners are extremely large and heavy and they are supposed to be a real pain to get unjammed once you fall on them.
[ This Message was edited by: newbieclimber on 2002-01-22 17:30 ]
|
|
|
|
|
mnutz
Jan 23, 2002, 2:20 AM
Post #5 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2001
Posts: 334
|
I have been using a Silent Partner to top-rope for a year, and have been leading with it about 6 months. Actually just got back from an afternoon of single-pitch trad lines.
For top-roping, I find it a little hard to feed. Makes for some extra rope-handling. That's my only complaint.
Despite what newbieclimber says, I've never found the weight or size of the Silent Partner to be an issue. It rests quite unobtrusively on my harness, I don't even notice it anymore.
Leading is really what this device is for, it works flawlessly. If you enjoy soloing, it is well worth the money.
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
Jan 23, 2002, 5:16 AM
Post #6 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
boretribe:
Good job breaking out and doing some soloing. I personally can't justify spending $200 for that thing, but if that's all you have then go for it. Or you could just TEACH a buddy or soon-to-be-buddy how to belay and have someone to belay you.
And don't listen to ANYTHING that NEWBIECLIMBER says. It is more incorrect than the word "wrong" implies. He never tries to learn, he only spouts wrong info. Notice his superb rating by his peers...er, I mean...the people on this site. I don't know if he has a "peer". This is not a beef between him and me. He is truely a moron.
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
|
|
|
|
|
boretribe
Jan 23, 2002, 5:46 AM
Post #7 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2002
Posts: 208
|
Addiroids thanks for the concern. I had noticed his rating. I do have people that will belay me (although not for several hours on end) there are just a lot of time I feel like climbing by myself. Me and the rock.
I have heard of using a Gri Gri before and it sounds doable with certain rigging and modifications (something I am not willing to risk my life with). Two big problems using the Gri Gri (although I am sure there are more).
1. The lever could get caught on clothing, rope, harness etc giving me a quick ride to the deck.
2. If the rope ran off to the side of the Gri Gri during a fall there would be a potential of thecover plate cutting the rope. Ropes just aren't designed to withstand a fall over the edge of an 1/8" piece of metal.
One thing newbie did mention that interested me was the use of a prussic (I prefer kleimheist) instead of clipping into overhand knots on a separate rope. It seems less cumbersome than stopping every 15' to unclip and clip into knots. Any thoughs?
mnuts is the TR setup hard to feed even if you have the rope anchored at the bottom as well as the top (with slack of course)? It seem like the anchor at the bottom would help pull/feed the rope through.
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
Jan 23, 2002, 6:07 AM
Post #8 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
Remember that it is a backup KNOT!!! You are knoting your LEAD (okay, TR) rope. Much more dependable than a 6mm prussik knot!! Don't you agree? Remember, listen to nothing that newbie says. Wait to hear it from someone you believe.
And if you can't find anyone to belay, MOVE TO SOCALI!! There are a ton of climbers here that would love to climb with you. Besides, it's JANUARY and it was 70 DEGREES FARENHEIGHT today (that's about 22 deg C for all you Canuks up there. Not that you will ever see those #'s before July).
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
|
|
|
|
|
boretribe
Jan 23, 2002, 7:01 AM
Post #9 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2002
Posts: 208
|
Addiroids point well taken. Must have had my head shoved up my... I was equating the prussic set-up with a rappel back-up etc. not one that could withstand a shock-load. OOPS. Glad you caught my error. Thanks.
As far as living in SoCal, I agree with you. I live near LA, which is why I can go climbing at 6:30 am before going to work (and I'm not talking about climbing plastic).
|
|
|
|
|
stigonrock
Jan 23, 2002, 7:27 AM
Post #10 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2001
Posts: 167
|
ok this isn't much help but....
I used to use a self belaying device which I think was designed by DMM.
The great thing about this device is that it is really small and light and simple in design, no special setting up techniques are required or anything like that......its just that I haven't used it for a few years and I need to dig it out from where ever Ive stored it. Then I can tell you more about it.
All I know it was designed for self belaying on a top-rope. Took me quite a long time to get confident with it, as in falling, but it never failed.
Hmmm...now where did I put that dang thing.
Stig
|
|
|
|
|
coach713
Deleted
Jan 23, 2002, 3:21 PM
Post #11 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Hi, Man I'm glad this issue came up. I have been trying to ask about solo climbing from a top rope where you don't have to use a belayer and wondered how safe it was.
I did some research and found a "Pretzl-Shunt" that was said to be made for this. It costs around 40-dollars and I have gone out twice now and it has worked great. On rappels, You can clip into your ATC, sit the Pretzl shunt above it on a daisy chain for back up.
Anyway, my question was, do others do this? Was this safe? Is there better equipment out there to be doing this with? Am I an accident waiting to happen.
It looks like others enjoy TR and climbing by themselves, so is what I'm doing safe? Have others used the Pretzl Shunt for this?
Any help or advice would be great.. Thanks
Ron
|
|
|
|
|
pianomahnn
Jan 23, 2002, 4:15 PM
Post #12 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2001
Posts: 3779
|
From what I thought I knew, the Silent Partner was developed as an improvement to solo climbing. It was to step in where other solo climbing devices such as a GriGri failed.
Although I love my GriGri, solo toproping with it has never really come to my mind. Stopping to pull slack through, tie your backup knots, etc. Although, I'm totally unfamiliar with how the Silent Partner actually works, I assume some sort of backup knots are required.
I dont know, it would probably be easier, as we mentioned prior to me, to find some belay bitch.
|
|
|
|
|
jstumpf
Jan 23, 2002, 5:40 PM
Post #13 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2001
Posts: 33
|
The Silent Partner is absolutely fantastic for solo toproping. I was completely in love with mine until it got stolen a couple of days ago. As was previouisly mentioned, it can be a little slow to feed when on toprope, but that can be easily fixed by either anchoring both sides of the rope (loosely) at the bottom of the climb or fixing the rope at the top (with a figure eight or equivalent) and then loosely fixing the end you're climbing on at the bottom. This leaves the other fixed side free in case you need to lower off (I'ts a pain to lower on the SP, so bring an ATC. This will make it easier to unweight the SP should you need to bail).
Happy Soloing
|
|
|
|
|
mnutz
Jan 24, 2002, 6:27 AM
Post #14 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2001
Posts: 334
|
boretribe - The Silent Partner does feed easier when the rope is anchored at the bottom (for top-rope), I would say it is necessary, actually.
Also, in response to newbieclimber's claim, the Silent Partner is not hard at all to free after a fall.
addiroids - 70 degrees here (So. IL) today, too. Ain't it great?! Ya gotta love January rock!
|
|
|
|
|
clipngo
Jan 26, 2002, 5:32 AM
Post #15 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 12, 2001
Posts: 66
|
I have used a gri-gri for self belay on TR for several years, never had a problem. Get some 7-8 mm cord for a backup prusik, and you will be good to go.
|
|
|
|
|
clipngo
Jan 26, 2002, 5:33 AM
Post #16 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 12, 2001
Posts: 66
|
I have used a gri-gri for self belay on TR for several years, never had a problem. Get some 7-8 mm cord for a backup prusik, and you will be good to go.
|
|
|
|
|
crackwhore
Jan 26, 2002, 6:15 AM
Post #17 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2001
Posts: 195
|
soloist: $75.00
gri-gri: $75.00
soloist is superior for toproping because it will self feed after a few feet and is fairly safe in a TR situation.
the Silent Partner is safer for leading but poor for TR because, as was previously noted, it is difficult get it to spin after being loaded. also when high stepping or flagging friction tends to inhibit self feeding.
gotta go with addiroids...
does newbie have an alter ego???
|
|
|
|
|
fo_d
Jan 26, 2002, 6:35 AM
Post #18 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 918
|
Someone mentioned somewhere that you need to use a chest harness with a soloist, is that true? and is there a way to make it safer for leading or should i just get the SP if i want to lead solo?
[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2002-01-25 22:39 ]
|
|
|
|
|
fo_d
Jan 26, 2002, 7:05 AM
Post #19 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 918
|
well i got the answer for one of my questi0ons from the wren web site:
"The Soloist must be used with a chest harness because it will not lock when inverted."
Also from that site:
"Climbing", April/May 1992 issue, pages 127-130
When you are climbing, the Soloist glides smoothly along the rope, letting you do harder free moves than any of the knot belays or the Solo Aid. However, the device won’t catch upside-down or head-first falls. In situations where you might fall inverted, such as laybacks or roofs, you need to tie backup knots close to the Soloist or switch to the figure-8 belay
[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2002-01-25 23:10 ]
|
|
|
|
|
darkside
Jan 30, 2002, 5:20 PM
Post #20 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2001
Posts: 1687
|
Addiroids: As someone from the land of ice (Canuck) I'd like to correct you. We have just been suffering through temps of 12oC (about 56oF) when it should be more like -12oC (roughly 10-15oF) and that JUST PISSES ME RIGHT OFF. These temps are killing the ice and snow and trashing the joy of winter sports. In fact it makes it positively dangerous as the guy I was climbing with last Saturday nearly got smoked by a 500+lb chunk of falling ice.
Come on people, don't you see the effect of global warming, do something about it. If not for the environment then for your fellow climbers in Canada who want to play on the ice.
PS We're supposed to get a winter storm tomorrow....WHOOO-HOOOOOOO.
|
|
|
|
|
darkside
Jan 30, 2002, 6:22 PM
Post #21 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2001
Posts: 1687
|
OK here is an example of newbie giving poor advise...
QUOTE: "a loose prussik tied above the gri-gri"
Prussic cords/accessory cords are made from nylon which has a low melting point. In a short, slow, fall 'if' the prussic bites quickly it may hold. In a prolonged, faster fall the amount of heat built up from friction before the prussic bites can melt the cord making it fail. Not recommended.
Boretribe: I have used a gri-gri for TR soloing and am not overly concerned about the lever getting caught. It has to open nearly 180o to release the cam from the rope so that while the lever may get lifted during a fall, you would then have to invert to completely release the cam. Get the idea. That is why back-up knots are used.
I have also used the Petzl mini-traction with back up knots for TR soloing. Note: not for situations where there is any slack rope above such as large roofs or lead solo. With a little coil of rope below, the mini-traction feeds great. I have done solo aid on TR and for this I used the gri-gri instead.
[ This Message was edited by: darkside on 2002-01-30 10:29 ]
|
|
|
|
|
ontherocks
Jun 6, 2002, 3:08 AM
Post #22 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 155
|
My concern about the back up with a prusik is the friction of a fall melting the rope. I read about this somewhere.
About the Silent Partner on toprope, have you tried to just weight the rope instead of anchoring it to the bottom? The problem I see on the anchoring is that if you have to traverse (expected or unexpected), you either have your movement restricted, or the amount of slack makes hard to feed the thingy.
What do you think?
|
|
|
|
|
narz
Jun 7, 2002, 1:48 PM
Post #23 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2002
Posts: 7
|
So just to make sure I'm not gonna get myself killed any time soon... Are there any legitimate reasons not to use my gri gri for solo top roping other than the lever possibly getting caught on clothing? I dont really have the cash for a silent partner at the moment but sounds like I will definitely be getting one soon. In the meantime Im using a gri gri and havent had any problems .....YET.
|
|
|
|
|
topher
Jun 14, 2002, 4:52 AM
Post #24 of 43
(23225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477
|
Well Addiroids, im sorry to burts your bubble but today in BC (thats part of canada) we where climbing in sunny blue skys and it was about 32C out!!! and its been like that for the last week! also i think we have better climbing up her cause there isnt a million people all tyring to climb routes that are pollished like glass!
|
|
|
|
|
thomas.jerald
Apr 9, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #25 of 43
(19175 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 34
|
Hey, im new to this forum, but from what i hear and have read this is a great community... Just have one question... Has anybody used the Solo Aid also by Wren Ind.? I ask because as a college student the silent partner is just plain out of my price range, and I really don't like the idea of having to use a chest harness with the soloist. And i don't know why, but the grigri just kinda scares me, gut feeling, you know...
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
