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any info on rope strength over sharp edges?
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restlessinohio


Jul 17, 2003, 12:59 PM
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any info on rope strength over sharp edges?
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Hi everyone!! I've enjoyed the site for months,but this is my first post,I hope I'm not defiling ettiquette by posting a new topic before posting 100 replies (or anything like that! :roll: )

Heres my dilemma:
We were climbing at Seneca Rocks, WV. I Had to set up a rap over an edge that was fairly sharp. I didnt have anything to put down as a softener(on the edge), so I convinced myself that it was good enough.As soon as I was over the edge I started getting nervous.
Are there any sites you guys know about that post any testing of rope stregth under less than ideal circumstances? i.e. sharp edges

thanx all -- great site


alpnclmbr1


Jul 17, 2003, 1:06 PM
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Re: any info on rope strength over sharp edges? [In reply to]
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There is no UIAA edge test so far.

you can find some info here:

http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/techweenie.html
under rope stuff


fear


Jul 17, 2003, 1:35 PM
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Re: any info on rope strength over sharp edges? [In reply to]
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Extend the rap anchors next time or find a better spot. Or if you must, use your shirt, a piece of your pack, etc... Every year a few ropes get the chop in just that situation and someone ends up coloring the talus below.

A few rope manufacturers now have "edge-cut-resistant" ropes that are much harder to chop over a tiny radius. But around here in the land of traprock we have many many polished basaltic edges that are as good as sharp knives. No rope would save you in that case....

And when on rap, always try to do it very smoothly without stopping or swinging from side to side if at all possible of course....

-Fear


dirtineye


Jul 17, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Re: any info on rope strength over sharp edges? [In reply to]
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On a double line rap, get yourself a 15 dollar canvas rope protectior, or make one out of a piece of canvas, and tie it to the pull side of the rope.

When the rap rope grates, it's not a good thing. Grating or sawing is not like the edge fall test at all. IN the edge fall test they drop a weight with the rope over a 1mm edge. On a long rap or jug, the rope can just sit there and grate on the rock for as long as you are on it. Rope protectors are not sexy, but they don't weigh much and when you need one, you really need one.

I recently had to do a 200 foot jug and later a 200 foot rap, all on the rope protector. We were glad it was there.


xanx


Jul 17, 2003, 9:51 PM
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Re: any info on rope strength over sharp edges? [In reply to]
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yo when u rap or jug or whatever you are putting a lot of tension (your weight) in the rope, so couldn't you just slip like a small piece of leather or canvas or something under the rope right at the edge before you start? this way, the tension in the rope would hold the piece of leather in place, right? or just use a little duct tape.... i don't see why u would need a fance $15 rope protector... $15 is a lot of money for us climbers...


dirtineye


Jul 18, 2003, 10:21 PM
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Re: any info on rope strength over sharp edges? [In reply to]
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Then make your own out of a pair of worn out jeans, an old towel, or anything else but keep your duct tape off the rocks.

The ones for 15 bucks have grommets and velcro. You tie the protector to the PULL side of the rap line, so you can get it back, and not litter or leave stupid tape (also litter).

And if you can affort a 100 buck or more rope, 100 buck shoes, and the rest of the gear, why can't you skip a pizza and get a decent rope protector?

Yeha, they are not very sexy, but when you need one, you REALLY need one. When that rope is sawing on the rock for a 200 foot jug or a 200 foot rappel, just remember a 15 buck rope protector could be saving a lot of wear and maybe your life.


restlessinohio


Jul 19, 2003, 10:36 AM
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skipping a pizza? lets not get crazy! but I could definately use a protector.
Being 1\2 Hillbilly, It should not be difficult to rig one up from something free.
the posts have been helpful,esp. the tech weenie page (I,ve been there before but forgot about it)
that dicey rap was just part of what i was after ,it got me thinkin of times when Ive had rope in contact with rock on the lead and i just wondered if there had been testing(or bad experiences)just to give me an idea how much strength is lost.


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