Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Addicted to Crack
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


petro


Jul 18, 2003, 6:44 AM
Post #1 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 176

Addicted to Crack
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm currently trying to compile a tick list of the sweetest cracks this world has to offer, and would love some input from locals or other wanderers about their favorites. Anything... Fists, Hands, Fingers, Tips, Offwidth, Chimney... Crags, Alpine, Big Wall, Aid Routes to be freed, Routes with only a single ascent... If it makes you tingle in the 'no-no', I want it on my list (grade does not matter).

Yeah, I know about the creek, the valley, J-tree, Vedauwoo, (please include the greats), but I'm looking for 'diamonds in the rough' too.

I might be hopelessly addicted, but why fight it.

Thanks for your input... Talking about climbing helps me ease the pain of not climbing while I am itching, twitching, and wallowing in the dispair and dread that comes from knowing that I'm stuck in a lab working, while I could be out on the sharp end, plugging in hexes (ain't nothin' sweeter than that cowbell clang), and jammin' away, working on the list that just keeps growing.

-Petro


veggieclimber


Jul 18, 2003, 10:40 AM
Post #2 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2003
Posts: 27

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Something you of course can't leave out is many of the routes on Devils Tower. Durance is of course the classic, but I hear El Cracko Diablo is not something to be missed either. Also while your in the area, the Black Hills, although not rich with cracks has a few, mostly around the Rushmore area. Check out White House Wall and others, I can give you more specifics, once I have my good book in hand, you see I am at work right now.

Just another note, is this Steve Petro? The one who wrote the book on fremont canyon and domerock that was published by chockstone press? I grew up in Casper, and have been pining to get back into the area, (being away at college is so hard).


jcinco


Jul 18, 2003, 11:02 AM
Post #3 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 395

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Classic crack climbs:

The Diamond, RMNP: Black Dagger, Forrest Finish, Pervertical Sanctuary

Lumpy Ridge: Visual Aids->Cheap Date->Outlander (Book link-up), Living Dead

Eldorado Canyon: Naked Edge pitches 1 and 5

Vedauwoo: Max Factor, Friday the 13th, Hesitation Blues, Hung like a Horse

Indian Creek 3 strikes your out, Crack Attack, Quarter of a Man, Scarface, Pente, Excuse Station, Sinestra, Coyne crack, Pit Bull Terror, Alley Cat, and on and on and on...


petro


Jul 18, 2003, 11:02 AM
Post #4 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 176

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Steve Petro, no...

I'm just Tom Pietrykowski, my friends just call me petro for short. I have a brother Steve (Petro too!), but he is a first mate on a billfish charter in the keys. 8)

Thanks for the input though, Devil's Tower?, I've been making these strange sculptures from my mashed potatos for a long time, maybe it is a calling... :wink:


sharpender


Jul 18, 2003, 11:03 AM
Post #5 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 663

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Mt Woodson in San Diego is world known for many fine climbs among them some might fine cracks. One speaks for itself by name, Robbins Crack 5.10, but my favorite there has always been Jaws a fine finger crack, rated at 5.10D by Bruckner (SP?) in his guide but more recently has been called 5.11. While these are not long lines they are superb climbing.


veggieclimber


Jul 18, 2003, 12:14 PM
Post #6 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2003
Posts: 27

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sorry about me jumping to conclusions, I probably could have checked yoru profile and found out. Well, because you aren't Mr. Petro, let me suggest Fremont Canyon, and Dome Rock, outside of Casper. Its abotu an our drive, and right by Alcova Resevoir. There are some killer cracks up there, from 5.6 to an incredible overhanging 5.13d fist crack. Not too far from your home in CO too.


Partner pt


Jul 18, 2003, 12:15 PM
Post #7 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Vedauwoo: Spectreman, Beef Eater, Boardwalk (plus those allready mentioned above)
Lumpy: Fat City
The Park: Days of Heaven (2nd and 3rd pitches)
Arizona: Lizard Marmalade Direct, Centerpiece, Single Lens Reflex
Vegas: Triassic Sands
The Tower: Walt Bailey, Burning Daylight, Belle Fourche Buttress, One way Sunset


vedauwoo_bri


Jul 18, 2003, 12:50 PM
Post #8 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 5, 2003
Posts: 1

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

At Devil's tower try Mr. Clean or El Matador....but i'll definitely concur on Spectreman...got spanked last week.


piton


Jul 18, 2003, 1:15 PM
Post #9 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

imo the perfect hand crack on devils tower do Assembly line
also do solar, someone mentioned El cracko diablo it is nice offwidth / fists.

Vedauwoo my fav is Horns mother, poohs corner.

valley sherry's crack at pat and jack, and five & dime climb oh and TR generator crack....

have fun :D

pt: how is triassiac sands? i was scooping out that climb last year, it looks real sweat...


traddad


Jul 18, 2003, 1:38 PM
Post #10 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ooh, ooh.....Can I play?

Let’s see.....

JCA’s Wide World of Sports
Lucille
Belly Full of Bad Berries
Improbability Drive
Tripmaster Monkey
Owl Roof
Muscle & Fitness

Not that I ever climbed any of ‘em, but I’d LOVE to pull up a lawn chair to watch, crack a beer and soak up the beta...


vegastradguy


Jul 18, 2003, 4:59 PM
Post #11 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Let's see....Red Rocks: Yin and Yang crack, although not a multipitch is, from what I understand, one of the finest cracks in Red Rocks. Also quite difficult. Can't remember the rating, but I think it's at least an 5.11ish


Other ones that are awesome cracks or have awesome cracks along the way here in RR, and while they aren't super tough, they are quite enjoyable....and easily done for us beginning climbers...

Olive Oil, 2nd pitch, one of the sweetest 5.7 finger cracks out there.
Hot Fudge Thursday, a 165' right-arching 5.8 finger/hand crack makes up the 1st pitch, probably the most enjoyable pitch I've led to date.

Oh, and I'd be remiss if I didnt add this Valley Climb...
Braille Book, 5.10c Variation

Okay, that's all I got.


bumpkin


Jul 19, 2003, 6:13 PM
Post #12 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 151

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hmmm... all these western cracks. Maybe there are no eastern cracks???

NO! Rocks are here too, and they have wondrous cracks in them, equal to many a fine line in JT or Yosemite....


But having said that, first off, special recognition to

llusion Dweller JT. Yeah it spanked me, but I love the pain.

OK, in Quebec:

Crown Directe (5.10-), at Val David. This remains one of my most favorite climbs ever, 14 years after I first sketched up a mossy slab belayed by my older brother. It starts two pitches up and is 160 feet of sustained, no slacking finger locks to thin hands on bomber rock that sucks in wires with a sublimely beautiful backdrop.

Le Sceptre (5.8+), also at VD. Such a pretty line... fingers and thin hands, immaculate. Parp.

At Cathedral Ledge:
Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+). Dig it.
They Died Laughing . Tits.
Diedre third and last pitches (8 and 9). Minty.

On Cannon
Reppy's Crack (5.8 -) This is looks like it was lifted out of Yosemite. Its a thin hands to fists crack on a steep slab, but totally pure: there is nothing outside the crack. Parp.

Crrrrrrraaaaaacccckkkk.


couloir


Jul 19, 2003, 8:50 PM
Post #13 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2001
Posts: 304

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In Arkansas: Stems and Seeds, 5.9 corner/ Arkansas Reality, 5.11+ 30 ft. roof crack/ Poison Ivy, awesome 5.7 corner.

In Yosemite: Bishops Terrace, 5.8 classic/ Jamcrack, 5.9 classic/ Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.10d classic eight pitches/ Highway Star, 5.10a amazing/ Desperate Straights, 5.10a amazing/ Tips, 5.12b Hard/ and tons more.


petro


Jul 21, 2003, 9:44 AM
Post #14 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 176

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This is great guys, keep 'em coming. Especially back east (I've gotta check out the climbs in Quebec). How about overseas, Europe, even South America. This will hopefully turn into a loooooong trip. I even like to hear about the 'easy' climbs, they don't have to be haaard to be fun, but hard climbs have their place.

Thanks so far.


angelaa


Jul 21, 2003, 10:06 AM
Post #15 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2003
Posts: 598

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

[quote="jcinco"]

Vedauwoo: Max Factor, Friday the 13th, Hesitation Blues, Hung like a Horse

Just at Vedauwoo this weekend and I have to second Jcinco's addition of
FRIDAY THE 13th
to the list. . . .
Awesome route!


majoringinclimbing


Jul 21, 2003, 10:39 AM
Post #16 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 169

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have to add to everyone who is saying good things about friday the 13th in Vedauwoo because it is absolutely awesome. Also if you are in Vedauwoo there is a roof crack bouldering problem in The Nats bouldering formation that is sweet. I have of picture of it in my profile if you want to check it out. I know it is not a route but there is nothing quite like a roof crack!!


Partner philbox
Moderator

Jul 21, 2003, 2:23 PM
Post #17 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2002
Posts: 13105

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Infinity at Frog Buttress South East Queensland or for that matter any of the some 350 crack climbs at this crag.

Eternity at Mt. Piddington, Blue Mountains west of Sydney NSW.


pbjosh


Jul 21, 2003, 2:34 PM
Post #18 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Woodson has some great stuff but hardly world class. Comparing Jaws to Scarface or Insomnia is like saying your sister with down's syndrome is a world class pitcher.

For world class cracks, here's my list:

Indian Creek - Scarface (probably the single finest pitch anywhere), Quarter of a Man, Coyne Crack, and though I haven't been on them Six-Star Crack and Tricks Are For Kids.

Crack house. Unreal. Nothing else comes close. Nothing compares.

Socal: Insomnia (Suicide), O'Kelley Crack (Jtree) are probably the two best cracks around.

Yosemite: Seperate Reality, Phoenix.

There's a lot of other good stuff out there but these are the ones that take the cake.


alpinerockfiend


Jul 21, 2003, 4:17 PM
Post #19 of 19 (3416 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 598

Re: Addicted to Crack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Tetons Offwidth- The two crux pitches of The Snaz (IV, 5.10) in Death Canyon. Fingers/hand- Caveat Emptor (IV, 5.10), also in Death Canyon.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook