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petro
Jul 18, 2003, 1:44 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
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I'm currently trying to compile a tick list of the sweetest cracks this world has to offer, and would love some input from locals or other wanderers about their favorites. Anything... Fists, Hands, Fingers, Tips, Offwidth, Chimney... Crags, Alpine, Big Wall, Aid Routes to be freed, Routes with only a single ascent... If it makes you tingle in the 'no-no', I want it on my list (grade does not matter).
Yeah, I know about the creek, the valley, J-tree, Vedauwoo, (please include the greats), but I'm looking for 'diamonds in the rough' too.
I might be hopelessly addicted, but why fight it.
Thanks for your input... Talking about climbing helps me ease the pain of not climbing while I am itching, twitching, and wallowing in the dispair and dread that comes from knowing that I'm stuck in a lab working, while I could be out on the sharp end, plugging in hexes (ain't nothin' sweeter than that cowbell clang), and jammin' away, working on the list that just keeps growing.
-Petro
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veggieclimber
Jul 18, 2003, 5:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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Something you of course can't leave out is many of the routes on Devils Tower. Durance is of course the classic, but I hear El Cracko Diablo is not something to be missed either. Also while your in the area, the Black Hills, although not rich with cracks has a few, mostly around the Rushmore area. Check out White House Wall and others, I can give you more specifics, once I have my good book in hand, you see I am at work right now.
Just another note, is this Steve Petro? The one who wrote the book on fremont canyon and domerock that was published by chockstone press? I grew up in Casper, and have been pining to get back into the area, (being away at college is so hard).
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jcinco
Jul 18, 2003, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Classic crack climbs:
The Diamond, RMNP: Black Dagger, Forrest Finish, Pervertical Sanctuary
Lumpy Ridge: Visual Aids->Cheap Date->Outlander (Book link-up), Living Dead
Eldorado Canyon: Naked Edge pitches 1 and 5
Vedauwoo: Max Factor, Friday the 13th, Hesitation Blues, Hung like a Horse
Indian Creek 3 strikes your out, Crack Attack, Quarter of a Man, Scarface, Pente, Excuse Station, Sinestra, Coyne crack, Pit Bull Terror, Alley Cat, and on and on and on...
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petro
Jul 18, 2003, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
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Steve Petro, no...
I'm just Tom Pietrykowski, my friends just call me petro for short. I have a brother Steve (Petro too!), but he is a first mate on a billfish charter in the keys. 8)
Thanks for the input though, Devil's Tower?, I've been making these strange sculptures from my mashed potatos for a long time, maybe it is a calling... :wink:
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sharpender
Jul 18, 2003, 6:03 PM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
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Mt Woodson in San Diego is world known for many fine climbs among them some might fine cracks. One speaks for itself by name, Robbins Crack 5.10, but my favorite there has always been Jaws a fine finger crack, rated at 5.10D by Bruckner (SP?) in his guide but more recently has been called 5.11. While these are not long lines they are superb climbing.
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veggieclimber
Jul 18, 2003, 7:14 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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Sorry about me jumping to conclusions, I probably could have checked yoru profile and found out. Well, because you aren't Mr. Petro, let me suggest Fremont Canyon, and Dome Rock, outside of Casper. Its abotu an our drive, and right by Alcova Resevoir. There are some killer cracks up there, from 5.6 to an incredible overhanging 5.13d fist crack. Not too far from your home in CO too.
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pt
Jul 18, 2003, 7:15 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
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Vedauwoo: Spectreman, Beef Eater, Boardwalk (plus those allready mentioned above)
Lumpy: Fat City
The Park: Days of Heaven (2nd and 3rd pitches)
Arizona: Lizard Marmalade Direct, Centerpiece, Single Lens Reflex
Vegas: Triassic Sands
The Tower: Walt Bailey, Burning Daylight, Belle Fourche Buttress, One way Sunset
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vedauwoo_bri
Jul 18, 2003, 7:50 PM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2003
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At Devil's tower try Mr. Clean or El Matador....but i'll definitely concur on Spectreman...got spanked last week.
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piton
Jul 18, 2003, 8:15 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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imo the perfect hand crack on devils tower do Assembly line
also do solar, someone mentioned El cracko diablo it is nice offwidth / fists.
Vedauwoo my fav is Horns mother, poohs corner.
valley sherry's crack at pat and jack, and five & dime climb oh and TR generator crack....
have fun :D
pt: how is triassiac sands? i was scooping out that climb last year, it looks real sweat...
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traddad
Jul 18, 2003, 8:38 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
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Ooh, ooh.....Can I play?
Let’s see.....
JCA’s Wide World of Sports
Lucille
Belly Full of Bad Berries
Improbability Drive
Tripmaster Monkey
Owl Roof
Muscle & Fitness
Not that I ever climbed any of ‘em, but I’d LOVE to pull up a lawn chair to watch, crack a beer and soak up the beta...
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vegastradguy
Jul 18, 2003, 11:59 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Let's see....Red Rocks: Yin and Yang crack, although not a multipitch is, from what I understand, one of the finest cracks in Red Rocks. Also quite difficult. Can't remember the rating, but I think it's at least an 5.11ish
Other ones that are awesome cracks or have awesome cracks along the way here in RR, and while they aren't super tough, they are quite enjoyable....and easily done for us beginning climbers...
Olive Oil, 2nd pitch, one of the sweetest 5.7 finger cracks out there.
Hot Fudge Thursday, a 165' right-arching 5.8 finger/hand crack makes up the 1st pitch, probably the most enjoyable pitch I've led to date.
Oh, and I'd be remiss if I didnt add this Valley Climb...
Braille Book, 5.10c Variation
Okay, that's all I got.
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bumpkin
Jul 20, 2003, 1:13 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
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Hmmm... all these western cracks. Maybe there are no eastern cracks???
NO! Rocks are here too, and they have wondrous cracks in them, equal to many a fine line in JT or Yosemite....
But having said that, first off, special recognition to
llusion Dweller JT. Yeah it spanked me, but I love the pain.
OK, in Quebec:
Crown Directe (5.10-), at Val David. This remains one of my most favorite climbs ever, 14 years after I first sketched up a mossy slab belayed by my older brother. It starts two pitches up and is 160 feet of sustained, no slacking finger locks to thin hands on bomber rock that sucks in wires with a sublimely beautiful backdrop.
Le Sceptre (5.8+), also at VD. Such a pretty line... fingers and thin hands, immaculate. Parp.
At Cathedral Ledge:
Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+). Dig it.
They Died Laughing . Tits.
Diedre third and last pitches (8 and 9). Minty.
On Cannon
Reppy's Crack (5.8 -) This is looks like it was lifted out of Yosemite. Its a thin hands to fists crack on a steep slab, but totally pure: there is nothing outside the crack. Parp.
Crrrrrrraaaaaacccckkkk.
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couloir
Jul 20, 2003, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2001
Posts: 304
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In Arkansas: Stems and Seeds, 5.9 corner/ Arkansas Reality, 5.11+ 30 ft. roof crack/ Poison Ivy, awesome 5.7 corner.
In Yosemite: Bishops Terrace, 5.8 classic/ Jamcrack, 5.9 classic/ Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.10d classic eight pitches/ Highway Star, 5.10a amazing/ Desperate Straights, 5.10a amazing/ Tips, 5.12b Hard/ and tons more.
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petro
Jul 21, 2003, 4:44 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 176
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This is great guys, keep 'em coming. Especially back east (I've gotta check out the climbs in Quebec). How about overseas, Europe, even South America. This will hopefully turn into a loooooong trip. I even like to hear about the 'easy' climbs, they don't have to be haaard to be fun, but hard climbs have their place.
Thanks so far.
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angelaa
Jul 21, 2003, 5:06 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2003
Posts: 598
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[quote="jcinco"]
Vedauwoo: Max Factor, Friday the 13th, Hesitation Blues, Hung like a Horse
Just at Vedauwoo this weekend and I have to second Jcinco's addition of
FRIDAY THE 13th
to the list. . . .
Awesome route!
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majoringinclimbing
Jul 21, 2003, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 169
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I have to add to everyone who is saying good things about friday the 13th in Vedauwoo because it is absolutely awesome. Also if you are in Vedauwoo there is a roof crack bouldering problem in The Nats bouldering formation that is sweet. I have of picture of it in my profile if you want to check it out. I know it is not a route but there is nothing quite like a roof crack!!
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philbox
Moderator
Jul 21, 2003, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
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Infinity at Frog Buttress South East Queensland or for that matter any of the some 350 crack climbs at this crag.
Eternity at Mt. Piddington, Blue Mountains west of Sydney NSW.
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pbjosh
Jul 21, 2003, 9:34 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Woodson has some great stuff but hardly world class. Comparing Jaws to Scarface or Insomnia is like saying your sister with down's syndrome is a world class pitcher.
For world class cracks, here's my list:
Indian Creek - Scarface (probably the single finest pitch anywhere), Quarter of a Man, Coyne Crack, and though I haven't been on them Six-Star Crack and Tricks Are For Kids.
Crack house. Unreal. Nothing else comes close. Nothing compares.
Socal: Insomnia (Suicide), O'Kelley Crack (Jtree) are probably the two best cracks around.
Yosemite: Seperate Reality, Phoenix.
There's a lot of other good stuff out there but these are the ones that take the cake.
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alpinerockfiend
Jul 21, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 598
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The Tetons Offwidth- The two crux pitches of The Snaz (IV, 5.10) in Death Canyon. Fingers/hand- Caveat Emptor (IV, 5.10), also in Death Canyon.
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