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Best Trad Routes????????
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stevematthys


Jul 30, 2003, 6:46 PM
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Best Trad Routes????????
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What are your opinion on some of the nation's best trad routes (not hardest, BEST)? my votes would be for Bastille Crack, Eldorado Canyon or Wind Ridge, also in Eldorado Canyon.


kilgymrats


Jul 30, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Doubble Cross or Sail Away, in Joshua Tree! Awesome Cracks!


pbjosh


Jul 30, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Double Cross and Sail Away wouldn't make my top 10 for jtree or socal. Here goes:

O'Kelley Crack
Rubicon
Hot Rocks
The Vampire
Insomnia
Coyne Crack

However the hands down single finest pitch of crack climbing I've ever done is Scarface at the Creek. Absolute crack nirvana.


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Jul 30, 2003, 7:13 PM
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any of el cap's routes beat those


alpnclmbr1


Jul 30, 2003, 7:26 PM
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Walt Bailey’s Memorial, Devil’s Tower
Third Pillar of Dana, Sierra Nevada
Incredible Handcrack, Indian Creek
Day’s of Heaven, RMNP
The Vampire, Tahquitz
Whimsical Dreams, South Platte


alpinerockfiend


Jul 30, 2003, 7:30 PM
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In reply to:
any of el cap's routes beat those

Oh yeah? Let's see your El Cap ticklist, mandrew.


tradkelly


Jul 30, 2003, 7:30 PM
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It only gets 2 stars, but it's my favorite route anywhere: NW butt, 4th Elephant Buttress, Boulder Canyon, 9 (step-left) variation. It's everything I want in a route.

My favorite 3 star is definitely the straight-up (not Head Crack) 3rd pitch on Ellingwood Ledges. Unreally great .7 at 14k'.

Everything else I've done pales in comparison, for me, to these two.


curt


Jul 30, 2003, 7:31 PM
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Almost anything in the Gunks.

Curt


curt


Jul 30, 2003, 7:33 PM
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In reply to:
Double Cross and Sail Away wouldn't make my top 10 for jtree or socal. Here goes:

O'Kelley Crack
Rubicon
Hot Rocks
The Vampire
Insomnia
Coyne Crack

However the hands down single finest pitch of crack climbing I've ever done is Scarface at the Creek. Absolute crack nirvana.

Rubicon is only good if you do the direct (face) start though.

Curt


alpinerockfiend


Jul 30, 2003, 7:36 PM
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The Tetons don't contain that much classic pure rock, but I'd have to say that Caveat Emptor and The Snaz would be some of the best that they have to offer.


pbjosh


Jul 30, 2003, 7:47 PM
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In reply to:
Rubicon is only good if you do the direct (face) start though.
Curt

I seriously disagree. It turns a moderate and well protected stellar crack into a difficult, insecure and heady boulder problem.


Partner pt


Jul 30, 2003, 8:58 PM
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Yellow Wall on the Diamond
Wunsches Dihedral
Over the Hill
Days of Heaven
The Barb
Fat City to Cheap Date


curt


Jul 30, 2003, 9:06 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Rubicon is only good if you do the direct (face) start though.
Curt

I seriously disagree. It turns a moderate and well protected stellar crack into a difficult, insecure and heady boulder problem.

Really? Well, I seriously disagree with you on this. The direct start (although admittedly a heady boulder problem) turns a gnarly awful ropedrag fvckfest into a nice aesthetic climb.

Curt


stickclipper


Jul 30, 2003, 9:27 PM
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And to speak for the east, I'd have to point out some sublime surprises on the granite of Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledges near North Conway in NH.

For Whitehorse, I know Sliding Board is among my favorite moderate slab climbs

and for Cathedral Ledge, there's a little something for everyone
Book of Solemnity
Recompense (beast flake)
Dierdre
Intimidation
Airation

Not to mention a number of climbs at Cannon Cliff. I'd say it's climbing at it's best


bvb


Jul 30, 2003, 10:06 PM
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curt and pb josh, sounds to me like you're having a heated agreement. i've done it both ways, and they both killer ways to get to the main event...the crack.

as for new hampshire, my vote for the best gear-protected routes would be vmc direct-direct on cannon, and the prow at cathedral.


bvb


Jul 30, 2003, 10:09 PM
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best long, one-day trad routes of all? west face of el cap, beggar's butteress, and hall of mirrors up to the hang). three of the most underrated long routes in the valley. i guess rockfall is a probelm on h.o.m. these days.....


straightedgeteen


Aug 2, 2003, 12:22 AM
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Almost anything in the Gunks.

Curt

Heck Yea the gunks ROCK! :D


sharpender


Aug 2, 2003, 12:55 AM
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In reply to:
mandrew wrote:
any of el cap's routes beat those


Oh yeah? Let's see your El Cap ticklist, mandrew.


I was wondering what Mandrew was referring to in the valley myself. I suspect he's never been on the vampire.


Partner rrrADAM


Aug 2, 2003, 6:20 AM
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3rd Pillar Dana Mountain 5.10b 7 pitches: Outside East entrance of Tuolumne, CA

High Exposure 5.6 2-3 pitches: The Gunks, NY

Modern Times 5.8+ 2 pitches: The Gunks, NY

Birdland 5.8 BOTH PITCHES: The Gunks, NY

Kor Ingals 5.6? 4 pitches: Castelton Tower, UT

Durrance Route 5.6: 5 pitches(from bottom): Devil's Tower, WY

Commitmant 5.8: 3 pitches: Yosemite, CA

Ten Years After 5.10d 1 pitch: Yosemite, CA

Reed's Pinnacle 5.9 3 pitches: Yosemite, CA

Direct Northwest Face 5.10c 3 pitches: Tuolumne, CA

Bastille Crack 5.8? 4 pitches: Eldorado Canyon, CO

Sidewinder 5.10b 1 pitch: Joshua Tree, CA

Ball Bearing 5.10a BOTH PITCHES: Joshua Tree, CA

Roller Ball 5.10b 1 pitch: Joshua Tree, CA

Illusion Dweller 5.10b 1 pitch: Joshua Tree, CA

Airy Interlude 5.10a 2 pitches: Needles, CA

Satan's Corner 5.8 2 pitches: Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT

Main Attraction 5.6 to DMZ 5.10a 3 pitches: Rock Creek, CA

Open Book 5.9 3 pitches: Tahquitz, CA

Flower Of A Higher Rank 5.9 2 pitches: Suicide, CA

Zoo View 5.7 2 pitches: Moore's Wall, NC

Air Show 5.8 1 pitch: Moore's Wall, NC

Stoner's Boner 5.9 1 pitch: Mt Lemmon, AZ

Right To Flight / The Nose 5.9 1-2 pitches: Mt Magazine, AR

Sail Away 5.8 1 pitch: Joshua Tree, Ca


norskagent


Aug 2, 2003, 9:20 AM
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sourballs, 11c, sauratown mtn., n.c.
100', verticle face to 11 bulge, then overhanging face / crack to roof, then overhanging face to top, all on bullit orange quarzite...


alpnclmbr1


Aug 2, 2003, 10:33 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Rubicon is only good if you do the direct (face) start though.
Curt

I seriously disagree. It turns a moderate and well protected stellar crack into a difficult, insecure and heady boulder problem.

Really? Well, I seriously disagree with you on this. The direct start (although admittedly a heady boulder problem) turns a gnarly awful ropedrag fvckfest into a nice aesthetic climb.

Curt

Most people boulder both starts. If you start on the right and don't feel secure in the hand crack, place a piece,then back clean it when you get to the horizontal, then move the belay. If your second is not solid on the start then once you get to the top, pull the rope and toss the end back down.


beckerw


Aug 2, 2003, 11:29 AM
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I haven't heard any of these yet!

Eldorado: Naked edge

South Platte: Center Route on Cynical Pinnacle

Castle Valley: Fine Jade


takeme


Aug 2, 2003, 12:00 PM
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Uh,


Wind Ridge & Super Slab in Eldo;

Scenic Cruise in the Black Canyon;

Lightning Bolt Cracks & "No Name Crack" in Indian Creek;

Kor's Flake & the Nose, Lumpy Ridge;

Pervertical Sanctuary & Casual Rt, Long's Peak;

Days of Heaven, Petite Grepon, Sykes Sickle & The Barb, all elsewhere in Rocky Mt. Nat. Park


Haven't been to California yet, much to my chagrin....


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Aug 2, 2003, 12:20 PM
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i hope i am not making people feel insecure about what trad routes they've done...but if you need to build yourselves up at my expense, go on'n do it. that shit makes me laugh.

if you want me to be more specific about what climbs i was referring to...too bad.


the_crawler


Aug 2, 2003, 1:02 PM
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The best Trad routes: follow good natural lines, protect well or not so well, obscure, not always obvious, have no bolts at all, seldom done, and of proper difficulty for the climber and the situation. Some from my neck of the woods.
@ T_wall: Jay Walker 7, Prerequisite for Exelence 8, Puppy Ride 9, Reptile Analysis 10, Fly with Falcon 11, Fear on Ice 12.
@ Looking Glass: Anything on the South Face all 9 or easier, First pitch of Invisible Airwaves 10, Cornflake Crack 11, The Womb 11.
The best thing about trad routes is you can go anywhere your mind and body will let you go. The line you take is yours and has nothing to do with who went before you. A major difference to me when compared to sport routes. ( I do enjoy sport climbing too!) Unless you live in Kansas, Nebraska or Florida I sure there's some near you. More than likley no fame or gory will come of it, but you said trad climbing right!

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