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AF E-News #33
July 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/
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IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Congress Takes Climbers Seriously at CPA Event
2. The Access Fund's Response to the Cave Rock Decision
3. June Voluntary Climbing Closure At Devils Tower A Continued Success
4. Shelf Road Action Alert -- BLM Developing Travel Management Plan, CO
5. Fire at "The Horn" in the Henry Mountains, UT
6. Raptor Closures Bring Success in the Flatirons, CO
7. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine
8. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
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1. Congress Takes Climbers Seriously at CPA Event
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The first ever Access Fund event in Washington DC came off in a very positive
fashion. AF Executive Director Steve Matous presided and Keynote speaker Congressman
Mark Udall D-CO (Boulder area mountains west) received the Access Fund Congressional
Sharp end award for his contributions to keep climbing areas open and conserve the
climbing environment. Congressional presence was strong with seven speakers
including: Representative Nick Rahall D-WV, (New River Gorge); Mark Rey,
Undersecretary for Natural Resources and the Environment (oversees US forest
Service); Representative Jay Inslee D-WA (Seattle area); Representative James
Gibbons R-NV (Cave Rock); and Representative George Radanovich R-CA (Yosemite).
Also, the legislative assistant for Senator Larry Craig R-ID (City of Rocks,
Sawtooth NF) spoke on his behalf.
CPA was intended to improve the connections between climbers and government, and
galvanize climber activism in support of legislation and regulatory initiatives that
benefit climbing in the United States. Also, it gave climbers and environmentalists
an opportunity to respond to these initiatives. We believe this event was a great
success. The speakers expressed their concerns and suggested solutions to problems
associated with the use of public lands.
"CPA put the Access Fund on the map with regards to Congress and their staff,
because we demonstrated that we could get Congress to speak on important public
lands issues," said Policy Director Jason Keith, "It is really difficult to get that
many members of Congress to go to a political event. This demonstrates that Congress
takes climbing seriously, and we intend to capitalize on this new awareness of
climbing related issues and continue to lobby in D.C. on behalf of American
climbers."
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2. The Access Fund's Response to the Cave Rock Decision
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Earlier this month the US Forest Service Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit released
its Record of Decision (ROD) with regards to Cave Rock and what uses are to be
allowed from this day forward. For more information, see
http://www.accessfund.org/programs/pr_cave-rock.html
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3. June Voluntary Climbing Closure At Devils Tower A Continued Success
(Press Release submitted by the National Park Service)
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The voluntary climbing closure in place at Devils Tower National Monument during the
month of June continues to be observed by many recreational rock climbers. In June
of 2003, 276 climbers registered to climb on the Tower. This represents a 75%
reduction in the number of climbers during June as compared to years before the
voluntary closure was in place. The Voluntary closure was established in 1995 as the
cornerstone of an innovative Climbing Management Plan that manages climbing activity
at Devils Tower in order to protect natural and cultural resources.
The National Park Service advocates this voluntary closure in order to promote
understanding and encourage respect for the culture of the American Indian tribes
who are closely affiliated with the Tower and who consider it a sacred site. The
closure occurs during June because this is a culturally significant time when many
ceremonies traditionally occur. Although voluntary, this closure has been readily
accepted - resulting in an average 80% reduction in the number of June climbers
during the last nine years.
"The climbing community should be applauded for recognizing that recreational use
may conflict with cultural values and for their willingness to make accommodations
when choosing to climb at these sites," said Climbing Ranger Chuck Lindsay.
Additionally, the Access Fund - a nonprofit climbing advocacy group - and several
climbing magazines have been instrumental in educating climbers and supporting the
voluntary closure.
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4. Shelf Road Action Alert -- BLM Developing Travel Management Plan, CO
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The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is developing a travel management plan for
off-road vehicles (ORVs) and other recreation use on 350,000 acres of interspersed
private, state, and BLM lands between Canon City and Cripple Creek. This area is
known as the Gold Belt Travel Management Area, and it includes the Shelf Road
climbing area. Low population and rugged terrain have kept most of these lands
relatively pristine. However, the area has recently been discovered by growing
numbers of off-road vehicle users. ORV advocates are well organized, vocal and have
been lobbying the BLM for greater access.
Intensive ORV use will have an adverse effect on the Shelf climbing experience,
degrade wildlife habitat and water quality, and increase noise pollution and soil
erosion. The BLM is now in the process of deciding how much of the area will be
available to ORVs and how much will remain wild and provide solitude.
The BLM has held two scoping meetings (to identify important issues and develop
alternatives) and is now in the process of developing the Travel Management Plan.
Comments will be accepted throughout the planning process. Please encourage the BLM
to restrict ORV use to existing roads, and most importantly, not to allow their use
in or near the Shelf Road climbing area.
You can submit your comments via phone or in writing via mail, email or fax to:
BLM Royal Gorge Field Office
Gold Belt TMP comments
Attn: Dave Walker
3170 E. Main St. Canon City, CO 81212
rfgo_comments@blm.gov
Fax: 719-269-8599
For more information on the plan, contact:
Dave Walker, Travel Plan Coordinator
Royal Gorge BLM
719-269-8500
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5. Fire at "The Horn" in the Henry Mountains, UT
(Information submitted by Jonathan Knight)
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"The Horn" in the Henry Mountains of south-central Utah -- one of the finest
climbing areas in the country -- recently burned in the Bulldog Fire. Early reports
from the fire crews describe the area as devastated. It is inevitable -- with its
outstanding quality, and the continued growth of the climbers in Utah and the west
-- that The Horn will become a destination comparable to the California Needles or
Cochise Stronghold. The day the Bulldog Fire burned the east side of The Horn, (the
main camping and bouldering area), 5 different crown fires advanced in different
directions, and the fire crews were evacuated. From the first hand accounts
describe camping area in the old growth ponderosa forest as "all gone."
"The Henrys" is a bit of a mystery area, far removed from population centers and
with a traditionally reticent climbing community. The Horn is also part of the Mt.
Pennell wilderness study area, although a RS2477 road claimed by the state that
doesn't exist could exempt the parcel. A small group of dedicated climbers care
deeply about the area and now realize that the underfunded BLM is not likely to
focus a intense restoration effort on the area. They are hearing from a lot of
concerned hunters and ranchers and a few climbers. To obtain more information and
urge the BLM to restore the outstanding camping at the base of “The Horn,”
contact the BLM at: Henry Mountains Field Station, Bureau of Land Management, PO
Box 99, Hanksville, Utah 84734, 435-542-3461.
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6. Raptor Closures Bring Success in the Flatirons, CO
(Press Release submitted by Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks)
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The seasonal closures of certain city of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks
(OSMP) areas will be over on Friday, August 1, with the possible exception of the
Third Flatiron. These areas are closed seasonally each year to protect nesting
raptors and their fledglings.
The Third Flatiron site is home to some late fledged falcons and may remain closed
for an additional two weeks. OSMP staff will be monitoring the site daily to assess
its readiness for reopening. Updated information on the status of the Third Flatiron
site can be found at http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace.
Seasonal closures, typically enacted February 1 through July 31, have been in place
since 1986. The closure of these areas provides a safe, protected nesting place for
eagles, falcons and osprey. The areas are monitored by volunteers who report on
nesting activity and success throughout the season. In 2003, a total of 13
fledglings (two golden eagles, one bald eagle, six prairie falcons, and four
peregrine falcons) were reported.
“We appreciate the cooperation of the public in protecting these magnificent
raptors and their fledglings,” said OSMP Ranger/Naturalist Rick Hatfield. “The
success of this program can be directly attributed to the many volunteers who
monitor the nesting sites, and to all of those who respect and honor these seasonal
closures.”
The osprey closure at Windsurfer Point at the Boulder Reservoir will remain in
effect until September 10.
For more information on Open Space and Mountain Parks, including the Raptor Monitor
Program and other volunteer opportunities, see
http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace.
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7. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine
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Rock & Ice Magazine is a Diamond level corporate sponsor of the Access Fund and has
been since 1993.
"Supporting the Access Fund is a top priority for Rock & Ice Magazine. The Access
Fund is THE climbers voice, speaking for all of us in key political circles, working
to keep our crags open for today -- and tomorrow's -- climbers."
Duane Raleigh
Editor in chief and publisher
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8. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
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Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at the minimum
level of $50 will reap the following benefits:
MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
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9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
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The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides
up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It
is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join
at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php). Indeed, it is a
benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication
electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and
allocate more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in
this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name
and address to cindy@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, over 400 members have requested not to receive their print copy of
Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $1200 per year to be utilized in
protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit
http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
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