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christiangadlerpadrin
Jan 26, 2002, 11:16 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2002
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If you have a old climbing rope you can't use this rope to anchors but many people do that!.why not buy this anchor?i recomend this!
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fo_d
Jan 27, 2002, 12:31 AM
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I'm no authoity on the matter but I disagree with you, (I'm speaking of top rope anchors)the thing is, unless the rope falls into a manditory retirment catagory it can still be used in static situations, so if you used the rope heavily for a summer and you no longer feel comfortable leading with it you can use it or parts of it in static setups. Mandatory retirement being: old age(5years i think), exceeding leader falls allowed, core showing, hard spots, hour glass spots, and thats all i can think of at the moment but i think there are more. If I'm wrong about this I'd like to know, I'm fairly new to the sport and have a lot to learn. Anyone? am I wrong, right or 50/50?
Les
[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2002-01-26 16:34 ]
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beyond_gravity
Jan 27, 2002, 2:28 AM
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Old ropes can be death traps. If you retierd a rope 5 years ago, and decide to cut it up and use it for anhors or Jumaring, your infor a suprise. You are however, les, correct. A freshly retired rope can be used in any static set up, as long as it's not dangoursely worn down in one spot, if it is, cut it up and use it for somthing else. If you feel comftorble using an old rope, go for it. If you dont feel comfortable, dont. There's hardly any chance it will break, but of coure, neither will a single, well place bolt. It's mainly just for peace of mind.
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toobigtoclimb
Jan 27, 2002, 4:10 AM
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TR rigs really don't take much of a load due to the short length of falls on most TR's. I often wonder when you really need to retire a TR only rope. In the old days we didn't retire a rope until the sheath wore through. You have to wonder how much the rope manufacturers have to do with the rope retirement "standards." I wonder if they retire a 10 year old rope that has been sitting on a shelf in the warehouse???
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fo_d
Jan 27, 2002, 4:21 AM
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I dont really like to go by "If you feel comfortable", I've done some stupid thing's (not in climbing i hope) that I felt very comfortable about (like the time I went with a freind Backbacking in Humbolt county looking for weed) so I try to go by the rules but I'm kinda with you Brian I have wondered about that too.
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toobigtoclimb
Jan 27, 2002, 4:49 AM
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Stay out of my weed field Les!!
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fo_d
Jan 27, 2002, 5:14 AM
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Oh!!! that was your weed? Thats not what my (so called) freind said, he said it was free for the taking.....boobie trapped feilds??????? nah thats just hyped up news media reports!
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andy_lemon
Feb 9, 2002, 8:54 PM
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The companies have a 2-fold reason for telling you to retire your rope early. 1) Liability concerns if someone splats on a rope that should have been retired. 2) They sell more ropes if you keep throwing yours away. But there is little need to argue about personal opinions. Harmston has done some testing on this:
Harmston writes:
>Here is some test data from an investigation I conducted last summer.
All ropes were used slightly.
1) 1986 Chouinard 8.8 mm. 3240 lbf @ knot. (this is a half rope)
2) 1986 Chouinard 11 mm. 5944 lbf @ knot.
3) 25 year old 11 mm Edelrid. 5141 lbf @ knot.
My Conclusions and Recommendations. Rope strength does not appear to
decrease with time. I don't trust old ropes because I do not know how the
elastic properties change with time. This needs further research. Chris.
Chris Harmston
Quality Assurance Manager/Materials Engineer BS. ME.
Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.
2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124 phone: 801-278-5552
Also Bateman and Toomer tested for shelf life. Here are some excerpts:
>The shelf life of a rope is an issue that has been around for many years. It came to a head about 10 years ago when a copy of an article, which purported to have data to support the proposition that ropes have a shelf life and that ropes degraded at about 10% per year, was circulated. This article was without scientific basis and was patently wrong.
>At that time, the matter was raised with the manufacturers of Edelrid Rope and Blue Water Rope. The technical staff at both factories confirmed that in their experience the rated strength and the energy absorbing properties of UNUSED ropes remain unchanged over time if the ropes are correctly stored.
>By channce, we had an excellent opportunity to confirm the then view of the technical staff. The roll of [12] rope was still in its original carton, complete with serial number and had been stored in a cool dark place away from contaminants. The rope was sent to the test lab at Blue Water. In the company of Blue Water staff we tested (energy absorption and tensile strength) the first half of the roll of rope. We then obtained batch test results from when the rope was made.
>When we compared the test results obtained with the original test results we found that the values were the same (within experimental error) and that the values obtained exceeded the rated strength.
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rrrADAM
Feb 10, 2002, 3:53 PM
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I disagree, I retire ropes after a year of climbing since I climb a lot, and the sheaths tend to get fuzzy. I cut these into 10 to 15 foot lengths for use as cordolette, rap stations, backing up old webbing on rap stations, building TR anchors and such.
I feel much more safe on a 10.5 rope with sheathing than with webbing. The dynamic rope will also help to disapate any shock in a fall, thus transferring less shock to the pieces used to build the anchor.
There is a good thread about this topic in the Gear Heads Forum, but I was too lazy to link it today.
rrrADAM
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zlipper
Feb 11, 2002, 6:07 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2001
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my ropes have gennerally lasted me for about 2 years each then i just use them for chordlettes
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