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Training for Climbing
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maria


Aug 5, 2003, 2:02 PM
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Training for Climbing
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Ladies,
please share the training routine you do specifically for climbing. (this is slightly different from cross-training topic)
Lately, i feel like i've stagnated at the same level, with very little noticeable progress. What do you all do to take your climbing to the next level? Campus board, finger board, pull-ups? How often?


iamthewallress


Aug 5, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Re: Training for Climbing [In reply to]
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What kind of climbing do you like to do?


maria


Aug 5, 2003, 6:22 PM
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all kinds - sport or trad, outdoor, weather permitting, indoor training otherwise.


iamthewallress


Aug 5, 2003, 7:07 PM
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I asked because on the kind of climbing that I mostly do...lower angle trad 5.10 or usually less, campus workouts would be nearly useless. Pull-ups and pull-downs helps some on steep cracks and mantles. Gym climbing helps with indurance. Laps on the cracks seems to be the most relevant for me. My feet are the thing that always holds me back, and I don't know how to work on delicate footwork other than by climbing outside. I'd love to hear any suggestions on this one.

A couple of years ago I had a leg injury and did pull down excersized on the lat machine like a maniac to keep occupied while it was healing. I was climbing harder in the super steep gym with a lame leg after a couple of months of strength training than I climbed before getting injured, so at least for myself that sort of stuff helped for the steep stuff.

I'd be careful with campusing unless you have incredibly highly trained fingers already. The few times that I've been on it, it's seemed like a good way to turn my plateau into an injury induced downslide.


maria


Aug 5, 2003, 7:22 PM
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i've been stuck at .12a (or around that level) for quite a while now. I climb about 4-5 days a week. I also try to vary my routine by either just bouldering for a few weeks, or climbing mostly overhangs, or just leading sport for a while, or just toproping, and so on.

as you mention, an injury can set you back, i guess, one just needs to know when to back off.

I was interested to know what works for other women.


lazygirl


Aug 5, 2003, 7:53 PM
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I just took almost a two month break from climbing. I took some beginning friends out twice in that whole time but really I haven't done anything to challenge myself. Yesterday I headed back to the gym for the first time in a while. I felt like I was climbing better then ever. I've been stuck at the same level with little progress for what seems like forever, but after yesterday I feel like I'm really ready to push myself to a higher level of climbing. The break allowed me to think about things and chill out. I wasn't always thinking about the next big route to go do or stressing. I relaxed and now I'm ready to go back in and set new goals.
I could feel my improvement yesterday in my foot work and how I was moving and it was simply from taking a while off. I've heard this advice a lot from other climbers but I didn't think it would work for me and now I'm a little surprised at how much it helped. It might help you as well. The idea of taking a break only really works when you're ready for it though. So if you're felling a little strung out it might not be such a bad idea.


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