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verticallaw
May 8, 2003, 4:13 PM
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Who all top rope solo's around here? What do you use for your set up? I use a static line (regular climbing rope stationed in and immoveable) weighted at the bottom with a mini triaxion. I find that this works great but the teeth on the mini triaxion scare me and are probably damaging the rope. I liked Coaches setup with the petzl shunt but I would like to hear what others use so that I can modify my system to something more comfortable (with no teeth)
Cheers
Mike
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redpiton
May 8, 2003, 5:07 PM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
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Find a partner
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earthclimber
May 8, 2003, 5:11 PM
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USHBA Basic can be used for solo toprope. It does not have teeth.
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jcain
May 8, 2003, 7:38 PM
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Registered: May 4, 2003
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I've used the Wren Silent Partner for solo top roped climbing. As recommended by Wren, I use a backup rope tied with loops that I clip into as I progress upwards.
It seems pretty secure, although I haven't taken any falls yet.
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hroldan
May 8, 2003, 8:25 PM
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I've used the gharda knot and works fine.
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sheldonjr
May 8, 2003, 9:17 PM
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The reason the Tibloc is not a good idea is because it has no springs. When using a tibloc, you are supposed to keep it against the rope with your finger. If you let go, it has nothing actually making it grab the rope, thus shredding the sheath. Don't get me wrong, a great ascender, but not for soloing. I use the Wild Country Ropeman MKII. It still has the teeth you're concerned about, but I've NEVER had a problem with them. But if you insist, the regular ropeman does not have them.
Check it out.
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mewalrus
Aug 5, 2003, 9:18 PM
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Yesterday I used a regular handled Petzl ascender with a HMS locking beaner connecting it to my belay loop and on the second rope I tied loops every six feet and clipped those. I had the HMS beaner in the top hole as Petzl shows to make it impossible for the ascender to come uncliped.
I was a little paranoid with it being my first try that I wanted a bunch of clip in loops. :lol: Plus I was climbing a tough climb, which added to the excitement. I took a bunch of practice falls low and the system worked great. The only issue was the HMS beaner could get turned and cross loaded in the ascender.
I have a question or two. Is the Handled Petzl ascender the same as the Basic? I am almost positive it is the same as a basic except for the handle right? I only ask because in the Petzl booklet they show the handleless one. I read several comments not to use an ascender with teeth for top rope solo, but Petzl says its fine and it worked flawlessly. I didn't even need to weight the rope to get it to feed.
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bonesz
Aug 5, 2003, 9:47 PM
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I solo on a fixed line with the B-17 ascender as well, though I've swapped out the biners on the quick darw with lockers, and for redundancy, a prussik above the ascender. I've taken pretty hard falls and have never once doubted the equipment. At the top of the fixed line is a figure eight on the bight, and once I've completed the route, I rap down the other line.
Fun but, no witnesses.
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sharpender
Aug 5, 2003, 9:50 PM
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mewalrus wrote In reply to: Yesterday I used a regular handled Petzl ascender with a HMS locking beaner
Not to be overly picky here and it's off topic but a "beaner" is a slang term for a person of Mexican heritage and not always a term of praise. I know that you are referring to a "biner" which is short for carabineer. I noted that a climber with 25 + years who posts here used that term as well but his post was rife with misspelling and fun grammar.
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sticky_fingers
Aug 5, 2003, 9:55 PM
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Wow, it's amazing how many times the same topic can be asked.
Anyway, I used a Petzl Basic and a Bluewater Static rope (the black one). Figure eight the sucker at top and clip it into two locking opposed biners, and throw the rest over the route. Before I climb, though, I always weigh the rope with something (backpack) to keep it taught so the rope slides through the Basic easily. I've been doing it this way for years and have never had a problem. If you know you're gonna "take" it helps to pull up the device as high as you can before you do, just to reduce wear and tear on your rope.
happy climbing
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organic
Aug 5, 2003, 10:41 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Is that whole "beaner" thing serious or a clandestine troll attack?
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mtnlvr
Aug 5, 2003, 11:39 PM
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I think the horse is dead.....beat something else. :D
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whichwayisup
Aug 5, 2003, 11:58 PM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
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Fixed line with a grigri.
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rcaret
Aug 6, 2003, 12:25 AM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
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I use a silent partner at times with a back up rope , I also use a modified GriGri but only with a full body harness or chest harness as falling head first the modified GriGri may not work
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passthepitonspete
Aug 6, 2003, 12:41 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Even with toproping, tie a frickin' backup knot!
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olympicmtnboy
Aug 6, 2003, 1:26 AM
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I use an USHBA basic on a normal dynamic rope. It feeds super smooth on the rope weight alone, although I often coil and tie off the extra on the ground or clip my water bottle to the end fo the first 10 feet or so. It also doesn't have any teeth and won't damage the rope. USHBA even reccomends it for self belay in their instructions, although do not use it for lead self belay as it can pinch the rope too severely. Somewhere in one of those other threads is a link to some tests of several devices under lead like construction situations with fall factor 2 falls and the USHBA pinched the rope in two, and most other toothed devices shredded the rope. I feel totally confident with it under top rope situations. I got the model with a little pulley built in (look on e-bay for the Russian distributer) and I find it also works great for glacier travel as an ascender and hauler in a z-pulley system.
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mattheww
Aug 7, 2003, 3:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2001
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I use two dynamic ropes with one weighted at the bottom and the other with in-line figure 8's tied every 10 ft or so. I use a Petzel Microcender on the weighted rope and clip in to the figure 8's on the backup rope in case my microcender fails during a fall.
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onelung
Aug 7, 2003, 3:56 AM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2002
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Dynamic rope, Bowline to the harness thru top anchor back to me thru my gri gri followed by a back up knot.
Ahh the peace of being alone at the crag!
bill
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dta95b7r
Nov 18, 2007, 4:35 AM
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Registered: May 20, 2007
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http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttsport253/
there you go lil buddy
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chedontsurf
Nov 18, 2007, 5:36 AM
Post #21 of 22
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Registered: Jul 18, 2007
Posts: 64
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i toprope solo w/ a garda hitch. i back it up by hanging a second rope and tying back-up knots. i like to tie the back-up knots as i go, cause i can tie them as i feel necessary. i also untie each back-up knot after i've clipped the next. this keeps them from getting jammed when i pull the rope. it is kind of a pain in the butt, messing around w/ the rope and feeding it as you climb, but it's certainly no more trouble than lead climbing. i haven't tried weighting the end of the rope to see if it will auto-feed, but i don't think it would work. i've taken falls, and i have never experienced any slippage of any kind. on an unrelated note, i had to ascend a rope the other week. i tried using both the bachman and a kleimheist on a beaner with a sewn sling on a 10.5 rope. both slipped under weight. i settled for a kleimheist sans beaner. i wouldn't reccommend using either friction knot w/ a beaner unless you're using cord instead of a sling. good luck
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moose_droppings
Nov 18, 2007, 5:59 AM
Post #22 of 22
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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dta95b7r wrote: http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttsport253/ there you go lil buddy
This thread is over 4 years old. I wonder if he'll answer you?
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