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paborden
Aug 5, 2003, 4:43 PM
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I'd really like to climb Vertigo (5.9 A0) on an upcoming trip of mine to NH...however, the climb requires a very short pendulum. And, since I know next to nothing (for now) about aid and don't necessarily want to take up aid hardcore at this point, I don't know anything about how to do a pendulum, though I get the basic idea i guess.
So, are there any resources out there (ideally on the web) that would explain this to me? I know this is a pretty simple, gumby-esque request but have a little patience with me and cut this free climber a break. :)
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edge
Aug 5, 2003, 5:40 PM
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Well, first of all, that section was just freed last week at 5.12+...
However, if you still insist on doing the pendulum, no worries. Climb up to the bolt, lower down about 10-15 feet, and run back and forth a couple of times until you can grab the crack out right. Run it out a bit (it's easy here) to help your second. When they get up to the bolt, all they have to do is unclip the lead rope and then use the trail rope to lower themselves down and repeat the pendulum. from here, retrieve the trail rope rappelling style.
Do this route! It's super fun and great climbing. Good luck.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 5, 2003, 6:07 PM
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Awsome rt. the bolt is rigged with rap rings so it is easy to retrive the rope after the second lowers. We used double ropes and and my second lowered on one rope while I pulled him in with the other.
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melonhead
Aug 5, 2003, 6:59 PM
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Who freed the section now going at 5.12+? Let me guess....Kemple?
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edge
Aug 5, 2003, 7:02 PM
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Yep, good old Timmy K did it on July 31. He was belayed by his dad. I think it will remain popular with the pendulum, however... :wink:
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tim
Aug 5, 2003, 7:22 PM
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In reply to: I'd really like to climb Vertigo (5.9 A0) on an upcoming trip of mine to NH...however, the climb requires a very short pendulum. And, since I know next to nothing (for now) about aid and don't necessarily want to take up aid hardcore at this point, I don't know anything about how to do a pendulum, though I get the basic idea i guess.
That climb is awesome. Wear a helmet, back up the knifeblade by placing a cam in the slot up and to the left of it (IIRC), and run like hell across the face back and forth to increase the arc of the pendulum. I fell upside down doing this, which is why I suggest the helmet (also becuase you'll be climbing on Cannon, after all -- who doesn't wear a helmet on Cannon?).
The section after it protects somewhat poorly (unless you want huge rope drag) so you should be solid at 5.9+ before you climb Vertigo. It is a great route, you do not really need any 'training' to do it, just some cojones. I climbed it with Alden Pellett (local hard person in Burlington) and he showed me a neat variation that avoids the offwidth by traversing a slabby bit to a finger crack. You might want to consider that. The crescent moon offwidth is notorious for eating skin.
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edge
Aug 5, 2003, 7:41 PM
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Yes, there's a bolt. Dunno who put it in.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 5, 2003, 8:11 PM
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I climbed it 15 years ago on the knifeblade and this June on the bolt. The bolt is good and the climb is still pleanty fun. The real scary part is hikeing up through all the fresh rockfall to the base of the climbs. I found a whole belay with slings and rings in the middle of the rubble :shock: A lot of those big boulders will shift on you as well :shock:
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melonhead
Aug 5, 2003, 8:53 PM
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Is the part that was recently freed protectable? Or did T.K. just run it out.....as usual.
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passthepitonspete
Aug 6, 2003, 12:01 AM
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The Better Way to do a pendulum is by using two ropes - one for the penji, and the other to protect the bit after the penji - think about it......
I've heard about that half-moon offwidth. Tell me about it....
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paborden
Aug 6, 2003, 1:56 PM
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since I'm a masochist, I sorta think the half-moon offwidth sounds like fun. protection beta? Is it parallel enough for big bros (what size are we looking at here?) or should I bring a big cam?
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bumpkin
Aug 6, 2003, 5:35 PM
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Half-Moon crack: #5 Camalot is tipped out, #4 Big Bro too big, some pro deep in the crack at the start of the pitch.... this crack is avoidable via 5.9+ fingercrack, but then you wouldn't be able to look at yourself in the mirror.
All of this is just hearsay, my last two planned trips were sidetracked, then I got beaten to a pulp by an ow in california and I have turned all weak-kneed and nancy-like so I am going to climb a few wide cracks at Cathedral to practice/learn technique before heading up...
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 6, 2003, 6:02 PM
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at it's most henious runout point it is about 10.5in wide and gay :D My Indian creek partner cruised it I got spanked like the eastern weini that I am :roll: The Cressant moon varriation looks fun and pretty brave getting to the first gear. Nothing to be ashamed of there but everyone will ask you if you did the half moon so you better suck it up. I belive that freeing the pendulum is basicly a top rope move with a possible pendulum fall no worse than what you experience when you are running arround up there in the traditional fashion.
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tim
Aug 6, 2003, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: The Better Way to do a pendulum is by using two ropes - one for the penji, and the other to protect the bit after the penji - think about it......
Gotta agree with you here -- we did it on doubles, actually. However you end up Z-clipping in effect if you protect too low after the penji, so it's still necessary (even with one rope for 'before' and one for 'after') to run it out about 10-15' unless you like doing squat-thrusts up an overlap :-)
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 6, 2003, 6:15 PM
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I ran the first 2 pitches together with the Union Jack start and then belayed right after the pendulum as I had rope drag even with 2 ropes.
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ambler
Aug 6, 2003, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: at it's most henious runout point it is about 10.5in wide and gay :D My Indian creek partner cruised it I got spanked like the eastern weini that I am :roll: The Cressant moon varriation looks fun and pretty brave getting to the first gear. Nothing to be ashamed of there but everyone will ask you if you did the half moon so you better suck it up. |
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 7, 2003, 1:58 PM
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I think that was the point I was trying to get across. by western standards it is short and easy.
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EliHamblet
Aug 30, 2011, 3:40 AM
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The crack has been noted to be both too narrow for the #4 big-bro which has an expansion range of 7.5-12 inches as well as being 10.5 inches at it's widest. Has anyone actually placed protection on this crack?
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lucander
Sep 1, 2011, 3:13 AM
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Exhale, shimmy up. Inhale. Rest. Exhale, shimmy up...
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rgold
Sep 1, 2011, 3:57 AM
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I did it many years ago; pendulum off the KB, long before I converted to double ropes. Don't remember any real problems, ordinary common climbing sense will get you through it. With double ropes, leader and second should be able to have all the protection they could want (Z-clipping with doubles? I don't get it...)
The half-moon crack is (or certainly was anyway) unprotected but easy. I didn't think it was even 5.8 by Yosemite standards (Pharoh's Beard in Yosemite is harder, for example, and so is the offwidth crack on Inverted Layback in the Gunks---if you offwidth it and don't go grabbing face holds). Is the HMC 5.9 now? No way! As mentioned above, it is a crack in a slab, so it doesn't seem as if you can't fall out of it.
I remember it as a very nice climb. I think the shot below was taken while rapping off, somewhere near but below the HMC.
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