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chico2442
Aug 4, 2003, 9:08 PM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2003
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I'm headed to Portland this weekend for a couple weeks. So i thought maybe i could do some climbing there. I am looking for info for any local (1-1.5 hours) areas. Some good top-ropping and maybe fairly easy (5.9-5.10) sport routes.
I've also heard of Rooster rock out on I-84. I dont know what the routes are rated and if its good rock or not. Also directions would be nice too.
So any info on rooster rock and any other local areas woulbe be incredibly awsome.
oooh directions to rocky butte? (castle like structure on big hill in portland) would be nice....i'm thinking about maybe taking some friends who would be begginers.
Okay thank you very much
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drkayak
Aug 4, 2003, 9:24 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
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You may want to pick up a small book "Portland Rock Climbs: A Climber's Guide to Northwest Oregon". I lived there for a year. We climbed mostly at Lewis and Clark State Park. It is on the East side of town in Troutdale. You can see the cliffs from the Interstate. Mostly TR and a few bolted harder leads.
There is also a cool free standing "volcanic plug" in the forest out near Mt. Hood. Has a great 5.6 sport lead and (2) 5.8s and some harder stuff.
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thrillseeker05
Aug 4, 2003, 10:52 PM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
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The Lewis and Clark area they are talking about is called Broughton’s Bluff and it is a Trad climbing area that goes on and on. The Top Roping they were talking about is like 4 routes out of hundreds. There are no sport routes only trad or some mixed. This area can be found off of I-84, exit 18
The free standing plug on Mt Hood they mentioned is called French’s Dome. There are a lot of bolted routes and some run-out trad. Anywhere from 5.6 to 5.12 you can find this by going up Mt. Hood via HWY26
Rooster Rock is ok. You are looking at trad once again and it is off of I-84 about 30 minutes east of Portland. There are huge signs to follow since it is a state park and nude beach.
You can cross the Columbia into Washington and take HWY 14 east to Beacon Rock for some good single pitch sport or some nice multipitch trad. This area is about 30 minutes east of Vancouver.
Lastly you can find Rocky Butte by asking any homeless guy to take you home. Once you see the most disgusting rock face covered with graffiti and spew with glass you’ll know you are there.
Good luck.
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wonderbread
Aug 5, 2003, 2:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
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Ok, so here's the scoop on Ptown climbing.
Broughton's Bluff-30 min East of downtown Portland on I84. There are a handful of topropes there. Enough to spend an afternoon. This is a good area for the 5.10 or so trad climber, or the 5.12 sport climber. The Bat Wall is all sport, but starts at 10d and only gets harder. This is the best wall along with the red wall, which you can toprope a few short but classic routes. however, Broughtons will be hot this time of year.
Rooster rock-40 min E on I84. One decnt 5.4 route. Not a lot of pro and a little loose in spots. Not too cool of a climb and sits right above the freeway. Kinda fun to run out and climb after class in high school, but I'd never bother now.
Beacon Rock-Excellent crack climbing, especially multi pitch 10's. Not much at all for sport or tr-ing. One classic multi pitch 5.7. Beatiful views of the Columbia. 45 min E of Portland on the Wash. side.
Rocky Butte-don't bother. Transient infested garbage dump. If you go watch out for needles, condoms, and trash flying off the top. Also your car may not have a stereo when you return to it. The easiest tring in town though and within the city limits.
Carver-Nottopropable, but a high concentration of good routes that start at an easy grade. Mainly sport, but there are a couple good cracks. 30 min drive. Also the only decent bouldering outside the rock gym. Faces north so it's best of the close crags in summer.
French's Dome-a beautiful, small sport crag, set in a cool alpine setting with gorgeous views of mt hood. routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.12 all sport with maybe two mossy overgrown exceptions. The place to be in the summer. Only about 12 routes though and an hour drive from portland. just watch out for the large groups of summer camp kids.
My first choice would be French's followed by Carver and then Beacon. have fun and the Portland Rock guide would be a worthwhile investment. If you need any more info feel free to Pm me.
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chico2442
Aug 7, 2003, 12:31 AM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2003
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Well thanks for ALL the info, i'm sure i'll hit at least one of those places.
I guess rocky butte isnt the same rocky butte my dad used to take me to climb when i was a little boy. Oh well.
Once again thank you!
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