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Once Your Nemesis, And Now Your Friend?
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metoliusmunchkin


Jan 27, 2002, 9:15 PM
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Once Your Nemesis, And Now Your Friend?
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Whilst one climbs a route, a route that is very difficult, a route that exceeds one's own personal climbing ability level, they become at least at one particular point in time; frustrated. This frustration is caused by the build up of negative energy, that comes with every fall off of this personally difficult route. The route at this time, becomes your project.

At the same time the route becomes you project it also becomes your nemesis. A nemesis that you know in your heart, cannot hold its name that you have given it (the nemesis) for much longer, for any day now, you will ascend this problem. One miraculous encounter with 'the nemesis' will change its name, for with this one miraculous encounter, you send your nemesis.

As soon as your foot, encased within a smelly old climbing shoe, reaches the top of this route, the name of 'nemesis' is shattered. This route, once your nemesis, now bears the name of friend. Once your nemesis, now your friend.

Has there ever been, one climbing route in particular, in which you have been so fed up with, and so frustrated with, that you have given this project the name of nemesis? And, when you ascended the route, did you re-name it your friend?

[ This Message was edited by: metoliusmunchkin on 2002-01-27 13:19 ]


tangboy


Jan 27, 2002, 10:19 PM
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Once Your Nemesis, And Now Your Friend? [In reply to]
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hmmmm.... deep topic i must say. you make it sound more deep then it is.... maybe. i have yet to encounter a problem that has made me pissed off enough to name it nemisis, but i can see it happening! good luck with anyone who has a problem like this!
tang


metoliusmunchkin


Jan 27, 2002, 11:42 PM
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The route that had probably made me feel this way would be the one at my gym. This route, was undone by everyone who went to the gym (which I must say is not very many people) and it took me around 3 weeks to do. I named it 'Round About' as it went completely around the contours of the gym. This was once my nemesis, and now my friend (also a great earning of bragging rights!).


Partner pianomahnn


Jan 27, 2002, 11:45 PM
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Beerandblood posting something just like this not too long ago...don't know where though.


vaness


Jan 28, 2002, 12:21 AM
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i had a problem like this, i called it the evil red route
i tried this problem that was incredebly hard for a few weeks. during those few weeks i would try the problem over and over again untill my legs felt like they were going to fall off from stretching so far (the route was made by a tall person) but then the other day i got on it and got stuck where i usully do but for some reason i figured out the problem like where to put my feet and stuf and i got to the end. i was really happy


metoliusmunchkin


Jan 28, 2002, 12:37 AM
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An enlightening experience?


madscientist


Jan 28, 2002, 3:46 AM
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I had a problem like this. It is called Rocky Top. It is a V4 at Carter Lake in Colorado. Even though I had climbed problems rated much harder, this one always spit me off. It just seemed so hard. Last Saturday, I walked up to it and did it, came down and climbed it again a different way. Being a sucker for punishment, I am now working the V7 traverse that finishes by going up Rocky Top. It feels better to climb that problem, than many of the harder problems that I have done.


metoliusmunchkin


Jan 28, 2002, 10:47 PM
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Do you feel that because of your efforts to first send the route, and the personal journey that you had to have taken to get to the top, is what gives you that superior satisfaction over all other routes (even harder ones)?


madscientist


Jan 28, 2002, 11:00 PM
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For me, climbing is about the process and not the results. Working something that is difficult, and figuring out what will get me up a climb and a boulder problem is what is enjoyable. If I walk up to some hard boulder problem and sent it first go, that does not feel as satisfying as having to put alot of work into climbing. My favorite boulder problems and climbs are ones in which I have to get my body positioning just right to be able complete. The problems in which you don't just grab the holds and pull, but rather you have to think and use every muscle in your body to get up. The same day I sent Rocky Top, I did a V6 traverse in four tries, but the traverse (The Full Muscle Traverse) was not as satisfying as Rocky Top. A year from now, I will hardly remember The Full MT, but I will always remember sending Rocky Top.


Partner artm


Jan 28, 2002, 11:09 PM
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Illusion Dweller in Joshua Tree.
The Crux is at the finish of the climb and only takes very small cams. I only had medium ones left. While pulling the crux my hand popped out of the critical pocket and I went for a 20 foot inverted fall.
Ever seen the change fall out of your pocket and spin to the ground in Slow Mo?
This route is also known as "Candy Colored Tangerine streamlined flake baby" but to me it's my beloved nemesis.
Everyone needs a personal challenge.

[ This Message was edited by: artm on 2002-02-01 12:51 ]


rck_climber


Jan 28, 2002, 11:22 PM
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One word:

"Anaconda"

The famed Garden of the Gods route has won all rounds so far in this bout, but I'm determined to tame the beast - and will one day soon conquer it and befriend the beast.

Until that day comes, it remains my nemesis.

Mick


mikedano


Jan 28, 2002, 11:23 PM
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Every route I've never done is my nemisis. I do however have one boulder route that I would consider an Arch Nemisis--a super-overhung route at Morrison in Colorado. I've tried it probably 40-50 times, and I once got through the crux and fell off on the last hold. After a while I finally just gave up. I may go back and do it one day, but I don't want to waste my time with something that I can't seem to do and have lost interest in.


timhinck


Jan 29, 2002, 12:32 AM
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There is a little boulderfield near our school known as Grindstone. Last year I was scoping for those elusive unsent lines that were left to be done. I noticed one that didn't seem to have chalk, so I cleaned it up and tried it. The first few holds were positive but overhung. One hold was a shart pinch that I left lots of blood on. "Sunfish V5" finally went after about 3 weeks, but I have never worked so hard for a problem. I was making the steep hike up to the field almost everyday for those weeks. My frusteration level was peaking. Then one day (luckily with film rolling) it just went. I usually know when I'm going to send, but this time, I was totally unprepared. It isn't the most beautiful line ever, but it ranked high in my memory banks.

peace,

tim


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