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Practicing Anchors
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bustinmins


Aug 8, 2003, 8:52 PM
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Practicing Anchors
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Hello everyone. I'm relatively new to the sport and have accumulated a rack for trad and sport.

I'm working on building trad anchors and was curious where all of you learned to place your anchors - ON THE GROUND - before you went up the route?

I'm in the Denver/Boulder area - if you could give me some good places to work with I'd appreciate it - otherwise - I'm interested in hearing how "the first days of placement" went and where you did it.

Any advice?

Thanks,

James


Partner one900johnnyk


Aug 9, 2003, 9:29 AM
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just find boulders that will accept pro. my best help was an area that had a long traverse so i could place pieces as i bouldered along. two birds with one stone.. then you can take a break from bouldering and build some hanging belay anchors with 3-4 pieces to get efficient at the set up... also buy and read climbing anchors if you do not already have it.


reno


Aug 9, 2003, 9:33 AM
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Eldo...

If you're free next Thursday, let me know and we'll go.


blindslap


Aug 9, 2003, 12:19 PM
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heres some advice on how not to do it. I read a few books, got some nuts. just nuts and me and my partner headed up a nice three pitch 5.6 Since we only had nuts all the pitches were really really run out and now that i think about it i'm sure our anchors sucked. We were really lucky a hold didn't pull off or anything like that or we would have been screwed. Get a cordellete, start at the base of an easy trad climb and go up it about three feet, just to were you can hang off your pro but not get hurt if it pulls. Go up and set a few pieces, make sure to use oposition then clip in and see if it holds. Oh, don't do this on a climb that's above a lot of sharp rocks, or a long hill. use common sense. if you want to build the anchor down low and then just clip a small sling and stand on it.


dirtineye


Aug 9, 2003, 6:13 PM
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What they said, and read john longs books, climbing anchors and more climbing anchors.

It wouldn't hurt you to build an anchor at the bottom of your single pitch climbs. Any falls will test your work at least for an upward pull.


alpnclmbr1


Aug 9, 2003, 7:27 PM
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Practicing anchors doesn't do a whole lot of good if you don't have someone with experience to evaluate them.


tt


Aug 9, 2003, 9:08 PM
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I think it's good to practice placing gear and testing it by weighting it. I produced some homemade aiders by girth hitching 3 slings together.
Set up a toprope and then place your gear, clip your slings to the gear and stand on the most convenient loop. Place your next piece and step on another one of your homemade aiders. I also clipped a sling into each of the aiders so that if your piece blows everything doesn't go flying to the ground. This practice will allow you to use your whole rack on a single pitch and gives you an eye for placements. Furthermore, you'll get some confidence on your placements because you weight each one.


bustinmins


Aug 11, 2003, 7:47 PM
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Sounds like a plan. I have a friend who also climbs trad - he's doing diamond today. :) I hope he made it. He was planning on spending the night up at the 500' ledge and then beginning the ascent at daybreak. I think the weather may have stopped him. He and I plan on going to do some pro placement on Thursday and I'll probably clean a route. I'm having trouble with the 5.7+ on the ELDO scale. I did okay on the top three pitches of Bastille's Crack but not ready for harder routes.

I welcome anyone else and others opinions.

I cleaned Bastille's Crack for this guy - not a good climb for me - the low two pitches that is. I had to be hauled up a few inches - twice and fell twice. I guess it is true what they say - if you aren't falling - you aren't trying. :) I have the Texas Prusik ready in my pocket for next time.

Send me an email. bustinmins@yahoo.com. We can definately work something out sometime soon if not next Thursday. I'm always looking for new information and techniques. I very humbly accept your offer.

Thanks for your generous offer - I do want to take you up on it. I got the guide book for ELDO and found an easy route 5.2 on the Whale's tale =west face. I'm looking at that for my first trad lead - when I'm ready. I just feel like I'm in a very holy/spiritual place when I'm in ELDO. I want my first trad lead to be there.

Gotta bolt for now. Thanks for the reply.

James


tradklime


Aug 12, 2003, 11:22 AM
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Table mountain in Golden is a fairly good place to practice. I took my wife up there to practice setting anchors from the ground. We just walked along the cliff band and I would pick out spots for her to set an anchor. Fairly diverse possibilities, required varying techniques.


bustinmins


Aug 14, 2003, 2:21 PM
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Thanks for you advice and offers of assistance. I think it this comraderie that makes this sight and sport so great.

Peace,

James


petsfed


Aug 14, 2003, 3:50 PM
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An excellent first lead is the West Dihedral on the Whale's Tail (twas mine after all). Bring everything up to a #11 hex, somebody experienced as a second, and you'll be good to go. The climb feels exposed but its not difficult at all. I still haven't done West crack right next to it. I'm told its easier, but I don't really worry on the Whale's Tail.


reno


Aug 14, 2003, 5:17 PM
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In reply to:
I'm having trouble with the 5.7+ on the ELDO scale. I did okay on the top three pitches of Bastille's Crack but not ready for harder routes.

Eldo grades are soft... the routes are harder than the grades. Not that you need to concern yourself with grades at this point.

I sent you an e-mail with my contact info... let me know when you are free, and we'll go.


bustinmins


Aug 15, 2003, 3:31 AM
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Thanks Jeff. I agree with you - when I do lead my first trad route - it will be at Eldo and it will be on the West face of the Whale's Tail - that 5.2 route that Rossiter says is the best beginning lead climb in the park.

I've sent you an email and look forward to getting together with you in the future.

Peace,

JD


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