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Access Fund's e-News #34 (August 2003)
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AF E-News #34 -- August 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/

To view E-News on AF website, see
http://www.accessfund.org/virtual_times/e-news34.html

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Adopt-a-Crag Day -- September 6!
2. Indian Creek Corridor Plan and EA Comments Due August 28
3. Washington State’s North Cascades National Park To Develop A New Climbing
Management Plan
4. The Murray Property Project, Kentucky
5. Tommy Caldwell Slide Show – Estes Park, CO
6. Thanks For Supporting Access Fund Conservation Grants!
7. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Indian Creek Weekend
8. News from the Flatirons, CO
9. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine
10. Journals and Memorabilia
11. Crazy Creek Blowout!
12. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
13. Vertical Times Newsletter Online

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Adopt-a-Crag Day – September 6
There Is Still Time To Register Your Event!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Adopt-a-Crag Day is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular
basis. From the signs in the parking areas to the established trails systems to the
rocks and boulders where we devote endless hours, climbers are frequent land-users.
Therefore, it is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for the land.
Register your event ASAP to ensure that you receive Access Fund support such as Clif
Bars, Nalgene bottles, stickers, trash bags, and posters. For a complete list of
events around the country or to register an event, see
http://www.accessfund.org/events/aac_events.html.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
2. Indian Creek Corridor Plan - Scoping Comments Due August 28!
(Report from the Bureau of Land Management Scoping Newsletter -- July 29, 2003)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Indian Creek Corridor Plan: To address impacts from ORVs, camping, climbing and
other recreational activities in the Indian Creek area, the BLM is developing an
Indian Creek Corridor Plan with the help of the Bear West consulting firm. The BLM
now seeks “scoping comments” from the public in order to develop the issues to
be analyzed in the plan. Climbers should get involved throughout the entire
planning process to ensure that our voice is heard and that appropriate issued are
addressed.

The Indian Creek corridor, located 50 miles southwest of Moab, Utah and bordering
Canyonlands National Park, is one of the most outstanding crack climbing areas in
the world. Indian Creek has a rich cultural and historical background and these
resources are also included within the planning area. In addition to its
agricultural and cultural resources, Indian Creek serves as a haven for climbers,
hikers, campers, mountain bikers and horseback riders. It also shelters sensitive
natural resources, such as raptor nesting sites, wildlife corridors and habitat, and
native vegetation. Many of these resources are becoming impacted by increased use of
the area, and many feel that mitigation measures are needed. Identifying and
implementing an appropriate land management plan that protects Indian Creek’s
unique resourcesæwhile accommodating human useæwill be the purpose of the new
Indian Creek Corridor Plan.

The Planning Process: To make the best possible management decisions for Indian
Creek, the BLM will rely on an evaluation tool called an environmental assessment
(EA). The EA process emphasizes public participation, development of issue-driven
alternatives, and evaluation of environmental impacts. The purpose of the EA is to
disclose to the public, and the BLM, the environmental impacts of any proposed
changes to the current management of Indian Creek use.

The planning process at Indian Creek begins with the identification of issues
through public and agency “scoping.” The issues identified through this
scoping process will direct the rest of the planning and analysis. An
interdisciplinary team (including an Access Fund representative) will then be formed
to develop a proposed action and define its purpose and need. After a thorough
analysis of the potential impacts resulting from proposed changes in the current
management of Indian Creek use, a series of alternatives will be developed,
including the proposed or “preferred action” and a “no action” alternative.
The BLM will then present these alternatives in a Draft Environmental Assessment
(Draft EA). The public will have an opportunity to review and comment the Draft EA,
all of which will be considered during the preparation and finalization of the Final
Environmental Assessment (Final EA). The BLM will then use the Final EA for their
decision regarding the proposed management of the Indian Creek Corridor Plan.

Tentative Project Schedule:
Public Scoping July 29, 2003
End of Scoping August 28, 2003
Draft EA September 2003
Public meetings October 2003
Final EA November 2003
Decision December 2003

The BLM needs to hear from you! Public participation is a key element of the
environmental assessment process, and the climbing community must be involved to be
heard. Please provide your comments on any issues that you feel are relevant to the
management of the Indian Creek corridor. Bear West will take your email or letters,
but all comments are due Thursday August 28, 2003.

For further information please contact the project consultants at Bear West -- Ralph
Becker or Laura Hanson.

Bear West
145 South 400 East
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
Phone: 801.355.8816
Fax: 801.355.2090
Rbecker@bearwest.com or
lhanson@bearwest.com

For more information, download the BLM Scoping Newsletter (560K) at
http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/IndianCreekScopeProcess.pdf

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
3. Washington State’s North Cascades National Park To Develop A New Climbing
Management Plan
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Over the past few years, outstanding new sport climbing and bouldering areas have
been developed north of Seattle in the Skagit River Gorge between the towns of
Newhalem and Diablo. Route development includes bolted sport climbs and bouldering,
both of which require the cleaning of moss and vegetation. Local climbers have also
been active clearing rock and debris to create trails and improve landing zones at
bouldering areas. A detailed website of one of the climbing areas has been developed
and word has spread quickly among the Seattle climbing community.

Last year the cleaning of moss and debris at the bouldering area created some
controversy when a NPS ranger found tools cached by the boulderers and confiscated
them. Around that time, the Access Fund met with NPS officials to start a
communication process for local climbers to be informed about the concerns of park
rangers. Also, climbers would be informed about the degree of acceptable climbing,
bouldering and cleaning. There is great potential for additional climbing areas in
the many front-country areas of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area (a sub-unit
of North Cascades NP), but the NPS asked local climbers to stop developing both the
new bouldering and bolted sport climbing routes while a climbing management plan
(CMP) was being developed for the area and resource impacts were analyzed. Local
climbers agreed to halt their development of the area while a CMP is developed.

In early July, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to the North
Cascades National Park Complex and met NPS officials to discuss climbing management
alternatives for the CMP and perform a site inspection of the new rock climbing and
bouldering areas just upstream from the town of Newhalem. Keith also met with local
climbers to hear their concerns and comments for managing the area. He was later
accompanied by seven senior level NPS staff -- including the park supervisor, chief
ranger, and several lead resource specialists -- into the field to inspect the sport
climbing and bouldering areas. After viewing the climbing and bouldering, park
officials expressed concern about the cleaning of moss and leveling of landing
zones. Nevertheless, they were open to some new route and bouldering development.
The upcoming CMP will likely include a process whereby new sport routes and
bouldering can be developed.

This fall a climbing management “scoping” letter is planned to go public. A
draft CMP should be released for comment sometime this winter. If all goes according
to plan, new route development at this excellent area could be authorized by next
year’s climbing season. To become involved and comment on the upcoming climbing
management plan for the Ross Lake National Recreation Area, write:

Roy Zipp
Natural Resource Specialist
North Cascades National Park
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
Roy_Zipp@nps.gov

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
4. The Murray Property Project, Kentucky
(Submitted by Shannon Stuart-Smith, RRGCC Executive Director and Access Fund Board
Member)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) is very proud to announce the
Murray Property Project and its new web site dedicated exclusively to the largest
direct climbing land acquisition ever by a local climbing organization. The website
address is http://www.thered.org.

As part of our mission to “ensure quality outdoor climbing opportunities to meet
the needs of present and future climbers by protecting, promoting, and ensuring
responsible climbing” at the Red, the RRGCC is raising the money to buy over 700
acres of some of the best climbing land in the United States, The RRGCC is directly
buying this exceptional, high-quality land as the surest way to protect continued
climbing access and opportunities.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
5. Tommy Caldwell Slide Show – “First Couple of Rock”
Estes Park, CO
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Date: Friday, September 12
Time: 8:00 PM
Location: Hyde Chapel, YMCA of the Rockies Estes Park Center, 2515 Tunnel Road,
Estes Park, CO
Cost: $5 at the door.

This show is a benefit for the Access Fund and is being held in conjunction with the
organization’s national grassroots Activists Summit. There will also be a raffle,
silent auction and membership drive. Marmot and W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc. will
present the premiere of the lives of Beth and Tommy. This intimate profile, a
production by Corey Rich and Jason Paur, is an inside look of the life and times of
two of the world’s most accomplished rock climbers.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
6. Thanks For Supporting Access Fund Conservation Grants!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
A special thank you goes out to all of our members who contributed to our recent
appeal to raise funds for Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grants. As of August 6,
2003, 113 members contributed $9,625.00 for this cause. Climbing Preservation Grants
provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the
climbing environment across the United States.

In 2002, the AF awarded over $120,000 in grants. In the first half of 2003, $29,500
was awarded to assist parking improvements, campgrounds, trailhead facilities, land
acquisitions, and provide organizational and start-up assistance for Local Climbing
Organizations nationwide. Your support makes this generous funding possible.

Thanks again to our members whose contributions will help support this crucial
program!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
7. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Indian Creek Weekend
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI) is seeking volunteers for a work weekend
September 27 and 28 doing trail construction at Indian Creek. The project goal is to
build a climbing access trail to Bridger Jack. Consider spending a day climbing and
a day working, or join RMFI for two days of work if possible. We’ll meet at 9:00am
at the trailhead for Bridger Jack. Bring your own food, water, camping gear, and
RMFI will supply work gloves and tools. Call or email the Rocky Mountain Field
Institute to register by the week before the event. Call (719) 471-7736 or email
rmfibox@aol.com.

RMFI is also seeking volunteers for trail work and alpine restoration in South
Colony Lakes Basin, Sangre de Cristo range on August 29-September 1 and September
6-9. Base camp and food will be provided. Call or email RMFI for more information
and application.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
8. News from the Flatirons, CO
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The Flatirons Climbing Council goes live!
Visits their new website for the latest climbing news and events in the Flatirons of
Colorado. See http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/

Third Flatiron reopens to public
The Third Flatiron re-opened August 1st along with other areas of Open Space and
Mountain Parks lands that have been closed for the raptor-nesting season. These
areas are closed seasonally each year to protect nesting raptors and their chicks.
The Third Flatiron was home to two late nesting prairie falcon fledglings. Staff
performed daily assessments of the area to be sure it was safe to re-open and have
determined that the fledglings have successfully left the nest.

"Area visitors will notice falcons for the next few weeks, but are urged to keep as
much distance as possible between themselves and the birds," said Rick Hatfield,
Open Space and Mountain Parks Ranger/Naturalist. "We appreciate the patience of the
climbing community and other visitors during this closure."

Staff reminds visitors that it is against federal law to harm or disturb falcons,
and asks that any unusual raptor activity be reported to Open Space and Mountain
Parks. For more information, please visit www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace.

For raptor closures and restrictions nationwide, see
http://www.accessfund.org/access/access_restrictions.html.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
9. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rock & Ice Magazine is a Diamond level corporate sponsor of the Access Fund and has
been since 1993.

"Supporting the Access Fund is a top priority for Rock and Ice magazine. The Access
Fund is THE climbers voice, speaking for all of us in key political circles, working
to keep our crags open for today’s -- and tomorrow's -- climbers."

Duane Raleigh
Editor in chief and publisher

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
10. Journals and Memorabilia
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The Access Fund has the following journals for sale. Email heather@accessfund.org to
inquire about availability or to make an offer.

High 118, 153, 156, 160-162, 164, 166, 179, 180, 183, 191, 194
Mazama December 1940-1988 (48 total)
American Alpine News
Issues - 1985-1988 (vol. 1-4); 1989 (spring and fall); 1999 (vol. 8)
Adirondack Alpine Journal - #1 - #8 (Dec '83 - April 86)
Leeds University Union - Climbing Club Journal 1974
Rock: Australia's Climbing Magazine 1987
Flash - Vol. 1 #'s 1-4
Connection - Vol. 1 (2-4); Vol. 2 (1-3)
Sport Climbing - Vol. 2 (#4); Vol. 3 (#1-3)
The Climbing Art- #25
Summit - Nov. 1965, June 1978, Jan. 1989, May 1989, Winter 1991
Crags - 18, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29
Descent - 1972, 1990

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
11. Crazy Creek Blowout!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Our Crazy Creek chair makes for cushy belaying and great lounging at your campsite.
They are available in navy blue, royal blue, or forest green. The price is $30
(while supplies last). To order, visit https://www.accessfund.org/secure/gear.pl

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
12. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 for at least $50
will reap the following benefits:

MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope

Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
13. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides
up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It
is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join
at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php). Indeed, it is a
benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication
electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and
allocate more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in
this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name
and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the
subject.

Presently, over 400 members have requested not to receive their print copy of
Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $1200 per year to be utilized in
protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).

To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit
http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
AF E-NEWS POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing messages to the
lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers.
3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any
of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.


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