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westcoastvert
Aug 27, 2003, 2:56 PM
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Ok, here's the deal... I've got one day in Yosemite and a girlfriend who's never done multi pitch. I'm comfortable leading up to 5.9 but I think she'd like to follow some 5.6 and 5.7...
Right now I'm thinking: Muginella, Lena's Lyback, and Jamcrack...
But you guys are it! I wanna hear what you have to say...
(Don't forget to tell me why!)
THANKS!!!
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climbaholic
Aug 27, 2003, 4:37 PM
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My favorites:
Bishop's Terrace - Really fun jamming at the top and varied climbing down low. Can do it a single pitch.
Jamcrack - Excellent jamming. You can setup a toprope on Bummer and Lazybum after climbing it.
Munginella - fun climb. Pretty easy
La Cossita Left - Single pitch that climbs an improbable looking overhang.
Nutcracker - might be harder than you want. The 5.8 mantel is kind of sketch. The climb as a whole is awesome.
have fun.
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ricardol
Aug 27, 2003, 4:40 PM
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After six - rap after the 1st pitch 5.7
After seven - rap after the 1st pitch 5.7 + short 5.8 crux
CS concerto - rap after the 1st pitch - 5.easy - fun 5.6 friction moves
all these routes can be rapped from the HUGE platform at the top of after six .. (only the after six pitch makes it to the platform in 1 rope length) -- you'll have to do a short traversing pitch to reach the platform from the other pitches.
2 - ropes rap to the ground .. through i believe there are anchors 1/2 down for a 1-rope rap (though i've never used them or verified this .. so YMMV)
Bishops Terrace - 5.8 very fun! bring up to a #4 camalot to protect the wide stuff - (i'm chicken shit!)
-- ricardo
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rrrADAM
Aug 27, 2003, 4:41 PM
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Commitmant
Reed's Pinnacle
Are within your range, and classics.
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dsafanda
Aug 27, 2003, 4:43 PM
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I would have to agree with "Bishop's Terrace" as the #1 choice for the grade and length your interested in. It's better as a single long pitch but often done as two pitches. Classic 5.8 hand jamming at the top of this pitch make it a must.
Some other ideas...
"CS Concerto - 5.8" (You can escape after the second pitch although you do miss the best pitch on the route. Still fun though.)
"Little John Right - 5.8" (this is three pitches but it's a great way to get a couple hundred feet up on ElCap with out climbing anything harder than 5.8. Ya got to get on the Big Stone right? You can watch poor guys and gals suffer as they haul loads up the fixed lines to heart ledges.)
fyi. Adam is right in that Reeds Direct is a great climb but it's really 5.10
Commitment at 5.9 is soft for its grade and is a good choice if you're up for 3 pitches.
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ricardol
Aug 27, 2003, 5:34 PM
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oh -- on el cap.. you could do Pine Line .. 5.7
-- ricardo
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highlander
Aug 27, 2003, 6:04 PM
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The Harry Daily route on the apron is an easy 2 pitch climb, maybe 5.7- 5.8.
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davidji
Aug 27, 2003, 6:52 PM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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In reply to: Ok, here's the deal... I've got one day in Yosemite and a girlfriend who's never done multi pitch. I'm comfortable leading up to 5.9 but I think she'd like to follow some 5.6 and 5.7... Right now I'm thinking: Muginella, Lena's Lyback, and Jamcrack... But you guys are it! I wanna hear what you have to say... (Don't forget to tell me why!)
How about the Grack Center (5.6)? IIRC 3 pitches. Easy, fun climbing.
I guess I'll have to agree with the Bishop's Terrace suggestion, although it's usually done as one pitch.
Someone suggested Reed's Pinnacle. To the top of the Pinnacle is 5.10OW (Direct), or 5.9 (Regular Route), or I think 5.9OW (Left). The first two pitches of the Regular Route (I think 5.5 & easy 5.8) might be good. Finish the climb if the 3rd pitch tunnel-through doesn't scare your partner, else rap off.
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yosemite
Aug 27, 2003, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: IIRC 3 pitches
I seem to be in mental lock up mode. Which route is IIRC?
Thanks,
Gene
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davidji
Aug 27, 2003, 7:47 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: IIRC 3 pitches I seem to be in mental lock up mode. Which route is IIRC? |
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maculated
Aug 27, 2003, 8:18 PM
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Moved this to Trad forum. Wow. I actually moderated something. Wow.
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crackboy
Aug 27, 2003, 11:44 PM
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Along the same lines as this, where are some places that have a good deal of moderates that I could just go from one climb to the next with minimal travelling. ill be heading up there with my gf for the first time and want to regain some technique.
someone suggested manure pile, the jamcrack area but anything else?
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jerrygarcia
Aug 27, 2003, 11:50 PM
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Do monday morning slab, f_cking gorgeous view from the top.
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kalcario
Aug 27, 2003, 11:57 PM
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first 2 pitches of central pillar of frenzy on middle cathedral are both classic 5.9, bring bug spray or perish...
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moabbeth
Aug 28, 2003, 12:14 AM
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In reply to: Along the same lines as this, where are some places that have a good deal of moderates that I could just go from one climb to the next with minimal travelling. ill be heading up there with my gf for the first time and want to regain some technique. someone suggested manure pile, the jamcrack area but anything else?
Swan Slabs next to Camp 4.
The Five Open Books area
Or if you're feeling like killer crack, Sunnyside Bench has some nice 1-2 pitches in close proximety, and it's walking distance from Camp 4.
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crackboy
Sep 8, 2003, 10:19 PM
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OK, so can anyone tell me the best way to get to the park from Davis or Sacramento.
i was looking at the directions on the main yosemite page, but being new here, none of it means anything to me since i don't know where anything is.
thanks
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herm
Sep 8, 2003, 10:26 PM
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Scummy Swan Slab is the ultimate in hassle-free door to door figure it out as you go climbing, but it's no fun. The Manure Pile has lots of good moderates in the 4 pitch range. The Apron is getting gravelly from all the rockfall these past few years, but it's still OK. If Munginella over in the dirty books is crowded, try the Caverns to the right. It is a fun, moderate, kind of strange route.
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iamthewallress
Sep 8, 2003, 10:36 PM
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In reply to: The Harry Daily route on the apron is an easy 2 pitch climb, maybe 5.7- 5.8.
Chouinard Crack can be climbed from the same ledge and is just as nice. There's a somewhat chossy looking 5.4 there too. I forget which of the formations it is.
I think a lot of these suggestions would really get you in deep doo-doo if you took your girlfriend who prefers 5.6 on them. (Reed's Direct comes to mind, but the "easy" 5.9 crux move on commitment or the 5.9 fingers on the busiest route in the valley (CPofF) would be others too.) Munginella is probably the most straightforward suggestion, although it gets crowded. (Most of the climbs mentioned except CS Concerto and Harry Daley tend to be crowded, though.)
The left side of PeePee Pilar (aka the first pitch of Paradise Lost) is a fun 5.7, and you can use a TR that you set up there to climb the 10a side of PeePee.
Nurdle is a somewhat off balance 5.8 at Pat and Jack Pinnacle, but it has tons of knobs and feature if your gf is new to jamming the slick cracks that are typical of a lot of the other climbs.
Knob Hill has a lot of moderate, low angle, knobby climbs.
Swan Slab is always crawling with guide school folks and others. It's a few feet from the road by lodge, aka traffic central. If I only had one day in Yosemite I would rather not climb than spend it there.
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dsafanda
Sep 8, 2003, 11:00 PM
Post #19 of 24
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In reply to: first 2 pitches of central pillar of frenzy on middle cathedral are both classic 5.9, bring bug spray or perish...
They are great pitches but this is a very, very popular 5 pitch(actually it's longer than that) route. You're just going to create a cf for others if you're rapping from the top of pitch 2 with other climbers headed up.
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cgranite
Sep 8, 2003, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2003
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If your down to hike and drive farther, then you could do cathedral peak, which I think is an awsome climb. leave before the crack of down and drive back with a lot of coffee. 4th-5.6 the whole way with an awsome view.--just a thought, if you could maybe spend the night.
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tahquitztwo
Sep 9, 2003, 9:24 PM
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Registered: Jun 1, 2002
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I'd agree about Cathedral....if you can spend the nite up in Touloumne or somewhere along the way....it's fun and relatively easy for someone who likes 5.6ish climbs...views are awesome(don't forget a camera for the top).....
And if you head up to Touloumne...try some of the easier climbs on PollyDome, like West Country or Hermaphodite Flake.....
I'd also second either Munginella or Bishop's Terrace....can be crowded but you might just luck out as well.....I always have when I've been there with friends.
Have fun!
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ratfacejt
Sep 13, 2003, 5:56 AM
Post #22 of 24
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Muginella a fun climb (5.6 x3 pitch) but if you try it, give yourself some time to find the frickin' thing. First time I was was there it took me about an hour to locate.
Climbed Leena's Layback over labor day weekend -- plenty of people around the slab climbs, but nobody around the corner in the shade.
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organic
Sep 13, 2003, 9:20 AM
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Kerry woods can strike you out in two pitches
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dirtme
Sep 15, 2003, 6:31 PM
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Church Bowl has a number of good easy climbs. Bishops Terrace is one that has been mentioned and it's well worth doing.
If you don't have your heart set on going to the Valley, Lovers Leap sounds like it would be a better choice. It's closer to the central valley and the climbing is mostly moderate multi pitch stuff. Plenty of 5.7/5.8 3 pitch climbs to choose from and they are all classics.
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