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calfcramp
Aug 27, 2003, 5:34 AM
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Anyone out there know of some links with some video of aid climbing?
i've heard a lot about it, but I'm haveing a hard time getting my head around it.
Just wondering
Cheers,
Chris
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moabbeth
Aug 27, 2003, 5:51 AM
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I don't really know of any. I had that same question long ago and did a web search and came up with nada. Now that I'm learning it and have spent enough time watching my man on El Cap doing it, I can see why there's not a lot of aid climbing video...it is slow. Very slow and methodical. Not the kind of climbing that makes for fascinating video for the masses. Looks cool in still pics though.
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apollodorus
Aug 27, 2003, 7:33 AM
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Aid climbing videos would be like sominex: put you to sleep. The typical hard aid pitch takes about four hours to lead. Most of that is spent thinking, not moving.
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overlord
Aug 27, 2003, 10:44 AM
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you mean like watching chess???
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socalclimber
Aug 27, 2003, 12:19 PM
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The only one I know of is the Video Guide To Aid Climbing. Donny Reed is the host. If you really want to learn aid climbing 101 without buying gear, this video is great.
You can get it at Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree, or at REI.
Robert
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calamity_chk
Aug 27, 2003, 1:39 PM
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chris,
prepare to be bored out of your brain with a video .. the best part of belaying an aid pitch is watching the clouds drift by and playing the imagination game where you try to see sheep prancing through the clouds. as for leading, i think apollodorus said it best with most of the time is spent thinking, not moving.
also, i think a lot of people here either learned it on their own or with an experienced partner. dont get me wrong, i'm the biggest gumbie of them all, but i got a basic handle on aiding by leading a bolt ladder and then cleaning the kingfisher. after i was hopelessly in love with aiding, i went out and bought some books and am now practicing clean aid on free pitches .. anyone can turn a 5.7 handcrack into an A0 pitch. :)
best of luck,
amber
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aahi
Aug 27, 2003, 2:24 PM
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I think it would be cool to do some close ups on some A3-A4 placements (like someone hammering in some tiny copper head, or stacking some pitons in a weird shallow crack, then watching them pray to god that the thing stays in there) just to see how ridiculous some of the things aid climbers weight themselves on. A couple of aid falls would be pretty sweet on video too, with all that gear flying around. As long as no one gets hurt of course.
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edge
Aug 27, 2003, 2:31 PM
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I think an aid climbing video would be... riveting. Seriously. I'd be hooked.
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dsafanda
Aug 27, 2003, 2:32 PM
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fyi. There's footage of Steve Gerberding on Reticent Wall(A5) in one of the Masters of Stone Videos.
The "how to" video mentioned above is actually pretty good if you want a tutorial of the basiscs.
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atg200
Aug 27, 2003, 3:45 PM
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i believe the gerberding footage is in masters of stone 3. masters of stone 2 has footage of rick lovelace speed soloing zodiac, and climbing on wyoming sheep ranch.
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paulc
Aug 27, 2003, 4:07 PM
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Beyond Gravity has a few (brief) shots of two squamish locals on a new aid route up the Chief.
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calfcramp
Aug 27, 2003, 10:00 PM
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I've just heard some description of how one ascends a "crack" with aid gear. The "crack" in question had absolutely no space between the two sides. You couldn't fit a sheet of paper in there. How does one ascend without scarring the rock with pitons and stuff? That's all, just wanted to see how it works in action.
I can imagine how boring it might look. But hey, ever notice how blue paint almost turns grey as it dries? COOL!!!!!!!!11 :lol:
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dsafanda
Aug 27, 2003, 10:03 PM
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In reply to: How does one ascend without scarring the rock with pitons and stuff?
Ever hear of piton scars. It's the nature of the beast.
hmm...I do seem to remember a crazy canuk demonstrating a pendji in that video. ;)
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