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mrhardgrit
Aug 31, 2003, 9:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2001
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I was looking through an old Yos Big Wall Reid guide for some routes to do next year and noticed a rather curious aid route by the name of "Saddam Hussein," which is situated on Washington Column's East Face.
I have to confess that I have never even heard of the route let alone met anyone that has done it ... so .... was wondering if anyone out there knows anything of it (repeats, condition, rockfall, rumours etc) or knows someone who has done part or all of it?
Thanks
Tom
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climbingjunky
Aug 31, 2003, 10:06 PM
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Be careful, it might be booby trapped! :lol:
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apollodorus
Aug 31, 2003, 11:17 PM
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That part of the East face of the Column, North of the Prow and Astroman, used to be generically referred to as the Bad Wall, after one of the routes there. There is alot of loose rock, especially above the Death Slabs. I don't know specifically about that particular route.
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flamer
Aug 31, 2003, 11:28 PM
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There's another one over there called "mid-east crisis" or something like that...I believe that The new free line over there used parts of these climbs....I think Rob Miller? Did the free line?
josh
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copperhead
Sep 1, 2003, 6:38 PM
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As you have probably noticed from the Reid guide, Saddam Hussein was put up by Eric Brand and his subee, ex Marmot Mountain Works general manager Stewart “Stew-pid” Irving. If I had to guess, I’d say that it hasn’t seen a second ascent, but probably for good reason – lots of munge, grass, loose junk and not too much cool stuff. The Brand/Barbella route, Ten Days After, would be a much better bet and has seen numerous ascents. You also might want to check out Electric Ladyland or Afroman. I’m not sure about a topo for Afroman but “Coiler” might be able to help you out in the Valley. The Re-Animator is a great route and has seen several ascents. It roughly follows the aręte that divides the South and East faces, offering the best exposure on the Column. Mideast Crisis has seen a few ascents but I’m not sure of the overall quality of the route. Yes, Rob Miller and Jay Selvage (sp?) developed the Quantum Mechanic. Another obscure one would be Horney/Johnson; it may not have seen a second. I scoped out the line before I found out that Jeff and Troy had already done it. Some of the features look pretty cool. Last, and yes, least would be the practice aid route to the right of Bad Wall called History of the Future, a three-pitch (and rap) route that I put up several years ago.
Have fun.
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iamthewallress
Sep 2, 2003, 5:57 PM
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FWIW J has recommended ME Crisis to me as an aid line...said that there is no A4 these days, and isn't sure how/where there ever was really.
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mrhardgrit
Sep 3, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Thanks for the info folks! ME Crisis also looks quite interesting.
Brian, cheers for the detailed info - what's 3 pitch route that you put up like? Do you have a topo that you possibly could email me? Had looked at Re-animator ... a Brit mate of mine had been on it said it was pretty tough (for A3, he thought anyway). Then again, Brits aint exactly the most travelled of wall climbers!
Tom
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