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Q: How to use a Shunt?
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Partner kimgraves


Aug 26, 2003, 8:19 AM
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Q: How to use a Shunt?
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Hi Gang,

Does anyone use a Petzl Shunt for repel backup? I have a healthy fear (unreasonable terror) of repelling. So I got a Shunt this last weekend thinking it would provide an ďidiot resistantĒ backup. But this idiot couldnít figure out how to configure the system so if felt comfortable using it. Iím extending the descender (Reverso) on a sling from my harness and rigging the shunt below it (just like in the directions). Iím attaching the Shunt to the belay loop with a locking biner (just like in the directions). But when I started to repel the biner torqued the Shunt so that it was hard to keep open. Iím thinking maybe attaching the shunt with a sling making a soft connection would be better. Or is this thing just one of those gaggets that I'll never use and should just return?

Thanks for your advice,

Kim


socalclimber


Aug 26, 2003, 8:45 AM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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I would strongly advise using an autoblock for rap backup. If you don't know how, go get John Long's book

http://www.amazon.com/...831?v=glance&s=books

Also, if you hate to rap, let your partner go first, then have him give you a firemans belay.

Robert


epic_ed


Aug 26, 2003, 9:08 AM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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The shunt is a great piece of equipment, but a little too specialized for me to carry. I have one and have used it quite a bit, but prefer the simplicity of a prusik.

I always attach the shunt directly to my belay loop and havn't had any problems. It took a while for me to learn how to use it smoothly. The Shunt should always be disengaged while rappeling (squeezing it), and I should only let go if I truely want to stop and lock it off. Not kind of let it go to help slow down the rappel. The speed of the rappel should be controlled by the break hand, just like you would do if you don't have the shunt on the rope. I'm not sure why the biner is getting torqued while you're rappeling. :? But having your hand on it and squeezing the Shunt during the entire rappel should give you full control over the position of the Shunt.

As for using an autoblock instead -- it works great from most application as a backup for your break hand. I prefer to extend my rappel device, and then attach a prusik directly to the tie-in point of the harness and attach it to the rope below the rappel device. Same set up as your Shunt, but using the prusik instead of the shunt. We've had this discussion/debate ad infinitum. The following link is worth a read:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4596&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=15

Ed


e_wire


Aug 26, 2003, 10:36 AM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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I agree with up2top, using a Shunt demands some getting use to... I also have one, but don't use it much. I'll use it when I need to clean a route that requires some rope swinging.

Basically, I attache my SHUNT to a modified quick draw (with two locking biners). One biner in my belay loop, the other to the Shunt. My reverso is attached as usual. I keep a hand at all times on the Shunt, to prevent it from locking. The only reason I'd remove my hand from the Shunt, would be for total lost of control. Like being struck by lightning. :shock:

I bought the device a while ago and now prefer a prusik.

Hope this helped!


nbirenba


Aug 26, 2003, 10:46 AM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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A girl i met up with to climb used one as a backup. I never had seen it before, then she send me one in the mail. She attached it with a sling girth hitched to her harness and a locker to the Shunt, above your rappel device. she didn;t really use her brake hand, just the Shunt to control the speed. I have yet to even attempt to use it. Route i do are short and I feel very confident on my rappel.


epic_ed


Aug 27, 2003, 4:31 PM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
she didn;t really use her brake hand, just the Shunt to control the speed.

That is a very difficult way to use a shunt. Speaking from experience, I did it this way the first few times and REALLY thought it was a pain in the ass, until I read the instructions further and recognized that you shouldn't use it to control your speed. Unless you like a herky-jerky, bouncy, ball-crushing kind of rappel.

Ed


timstich


Aug 30, 2003, 7:33 PM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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I have a Shunt and love it. The trick is to lock yoursef off for the rappel with your brake hand and then compress the Shunt with your other hand. Hold it down as you rappel. If you let go of it, of course it will lock up or at the very least drag. If it torqued to the side too much, use a biner through your harness attachment point with the rappelling device in the belay loop. Whatever works. Practice on a rope just above the ground first or at the gym.


fishypete


Sep 1, 2003, 7:20 AM
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Re: Q: How to use a Shunt? [In reply to]
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The shunt, or any back-up device that goes above your rapell device, is not the best way to back yourself up.

Even in controlled testing where volunteers were expecting a surprise or shock whilst rapelling, results have shown that our instinct is to grab, not release. Accordingly there have been situations where people have slid down their ropes, burning themselves badly, when they failed to release their grip on their backup above the belay device.

Use an autoblock. Its safer, and saves you the hassle of carrying an extra piece of gear.

Cheers

Fishy.


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