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sprtclimber
Sep 4, 2003, 11:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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I plan on climbing the south-east side and would like some beta on the route. I'm going to go through the chimney too, maybe, whats the funnest route up?
What size Cams work best/ what size nuts?
I will be using a single 60M 10.5 rope.
-thanx
--PS: this is not sprtclimber
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 4, 2003, 11:28 PM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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get there early, if it will be a weekend I would suggest starting climbing(not hiking) when the sun comes up.
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maculated
Sep 4, 2003, 11:52 PM
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I used all my large nuts and all my cams (.5 - 3) on the route I went (the 5.9 variations) I highly recommend the tree start, that crack is very fun. Don't go out unprotected on the face where the chimney is, decking is very serious.
Start the hike in with plenty of time. Get approach and descent beta before you start out or you could get lost and take time.
Read my epic story and don't do what I did. :)
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sprtclimber
Sep 5, 2003, 12:42 AM
Post #4 of 15
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I'm new to trading and would like to know which route would be best to keep around 5.6-5.7.
what route would this be?
What land marks should I follow?
Thanks for the advice-
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 5, 2003, 1:17 AM
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there is only really one route on the face with a hundred possible variations. If you go the right way it is about 5.6, you don't want to be falling on this route, or most of the easy routes in tuolumne period.
As I recall the easiest start is 150 ft to the right of the toe of the buttress.
There is a chimney halfway up the route.
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thegreytradster
Sep 5, 2003, 3:02 AM
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As I remember the normal start is just a little to the left and uphill from the toe of the butress. We started at the very toe of the buttress and headed straight up to the chiminey, (5.6 FUN!!) then went straight to the top proabably a little right of the reg route, (5.7. 5.8-?)
That avoided some of the crowd.
Took one look at the face variation,(serious!) and decided to wait in line for the chiminey though.
Get up early, move fast, don't fall, have fun.
Carry everything over the top and cut out directly for the trail after you're off of the peak proper. Don't leave anything at the base of the climb!
I don't know if the "shooting star"? guides are still avalable. It's a little pamphlet with all the beta you need.
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 5, 2003, 3:10 AM
Post #7 of 15
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I would suggest using greytradsters beta as mine is from a memory of something i read somewhere. The last few times I did the route I just went where no one else was climbing.
the mountain shop in the meadows still has the shooting star guides.
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herm
Sep 5, 2003, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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This is the most crowded route i've been on, and that's saying something. Be prepared to look away from your topo if you intend to get thru the crowd. Start Early! Watch the guys that pass you, and try to take notes. Leading an alpine route [even a highway like the SE buttress], is not at all like sport climbing, and it is only a bit like trad gragging.
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tahquitztwo
Sep 5, 2003, 11:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 1, 2002
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Try checking out a possible route guide on SUPERTOPO.Com.....their new book of Touloumne Classics has Cathedral Buttress along with many of it's possible variations.
Have fun...it is a really neat climb and the views are awesome....
Definitely don't leave anything at the base...between the bears and the marmots you won't find anything left when you return....
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sprtclimber
Sep 8, 2003, 6:35 PM
Post #10 of 15
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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what size cams are used the most?
should I get doubles in any certain size?
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dingus
Sep 8, 2003, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: what size cams are used the most? should I get doubles in any certain size?
I'd recommend taking a few small nuts and single cam's from say 1/4 inch through 3 inches, no doubles required. No really big cams required either. Blue camelot is overkill, though I'm sure you could find plenty of placements for it if you lugged it along.
DMT
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madturtle
Sep 8, 2003, 7:25 PM
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If you are climbing on a weekend try the variation to the right of the standard route. We did that and never waited at a belay until the final summit pitch. Well protected he whole way up, maybe 5.7. There are a number of old pitons to let you know you are on route. I carried a single set of cams up to camelot #2 and a set of nuts, maybe 8-10 trad draws and never felt I was lacking gear.
On the second to last pitch there is a fairly steep handcrack too that may go at 5.8, also recomended and it will keep you a litttle right of the crowded regular route. There is a large belay ledge just before it but if you can don't stop here and continue to the final huge ledge before the summit pitch. Plenty of room up here for multiple parties if need be.
Also be sure to hike down and climb eicherhorn pinnacle. Great 2 pitch 5.4 climb and easy rap off. Less than an hour excursion and a sin to skip. Keep walking around up and to the north side (opposite side from the summit decent trail) of the pinnacle and easy 5th class to steeper climbing. Belay at the notch before heading up and left, and then summit from here. Too much rope drag to do in one pitch I think. Absolutely stellar.
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joebuzz
Sep 8, 2003, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2002
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All the climbing beta so far is right on. Be prepared for the approach though, it takes most parties anywhere from 1 1/2 - 3hrs, depending on what shape your lungs and legs are in. Start early as the days are getting shorter.
The turnoff for the Bud Lake trail is pretty easily found these days. When you get up through the tree's and onto the granite part of the approach, keep a sharp eye out for cairns. They're sometimes hard to spot, but from each one the next should be just within eye shot.
Last thing, there is no longer a rap station from the summit. You must be prepared to downclimb some 4th class terrain. Not a big deal, just be ready for it.
Buzz
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sprtclimber
Sep 9, 2003, 6:38 AM
Post #14 of 15
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I climbed the mountaineers route and soloed the top a few weeks ago, thats why I'm so stocked to climb it. I chilled on the summit with two girls who trad climbed it and they got me really wanting to do it. how does this look:
1 set of BD stoppers #4-13
Camalots .75-2 Biners on each
Aliens green-red Biners on each
6 trad draws...and a few five foot slings Is that ok or lacking?
thanks for all the advice
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herm
Sep 9, 2003, 2:17 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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Get a topo and read it, then throw it away. Be ready for some creative route finding. It is an easy line to follow, just follow the heard.
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