|
traddad
Sep 7, 2003, 2:46 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
I've done it before, but I am contemplating a new route and I want to know what is a good system for jugging over the top out when the top is flat and the anchors are set back a couple of feet.
Usually, when a rope crosses a ledge, there is a little section where you cannot move the jumar so you just detach (tied in, of course) one of the jumars and reattach it past the "constriction". In this case, there is no end to the "constriction". The rope will be in contact with the rock all the way to the bolts. I'm a little worried about falling so close to the anchors. The fall factor would be high. Any tips from the aid gurus?
|
|
|
|
|
wonderbread
Sep 7, 2003, 3:24 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2002
Posts: 197
|
OK, i think I see what you are asking. First off if we are talking jugging up you lead rope to top out, you better have that lip padded with a sumo suit. Or better yet, have you anchor extended over the edge. Next, you should just get out and try it, it is really going to be quite easy, you are thinking too much and not climbing enough. First off you are topping out on a flat ledge. Jug up as high as you can, walk up your aiders and step/ beach whale onto the ledge,you can even grab the rope /anchors and pull yourself too. Don't worry about a huge fall because you will have your gri-gri attached just below your jugs-RIGHT? If you're still concerned just get out and try it on a short cliff, with the anchor extended over the edge and the lip padded well, it won't be difficult to figure out. Have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Sep 7, 2003, 4:45 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
You can use one hand to push on the rock, and the other to pull the jumar out as you push it up. Once you get past the edge a bit, you should be able to keep the rope away from the rock by either standing on your feet or pushing off with your (kneepad protected) knees.
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Sep 7, 2003, 11:31 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
Thanks for the advice. I was probably thinking too much. !/2 bottle of Cabernet does that to me.
This is going to be a free route but I need to rap, jug and clean it. This area has good rock but there is a propensity for loose flakes etc. I watched one of my partners pull off a surfboard sized flake and then trundle a coffin sized boulder simply by nudging it. I want to get rid of that stuff befor I try it from the ground up.
|
|
|
|
|
|
