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How much harder is outdoor climbing versus indoor?
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climbingjunky


Sep 6, 2003, 11:42 PM
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How much harder is outdoor climbing versus indoor?
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Ok all you hardcore outdoor enthusiasts, let's hear it! :)


sync


Sep 7, 2003, 12:06 AM
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There are no wasps living in the cracks at the gym!!

In fact, there is no crack climbing at all at the local gym.


mountrobson


Sep 7, 2003, 12:43 AM
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I'm not sure about "harder", but it sure is more INTERESTING!! What I like about real rock is the whole finding-your-next-hold thing. In the gym (smears on textured plywood notwithstanding!), you look up to the next piece of plastic and know that it is your next hold. Yeah, there's more than one way to use it and all, but it's a no-brainer where your next hold is -- usually about 2' above where the last one was connected! On real rock, a troubling section might be solved by moving a foot up only 2" -- a near impossibility on gym routes. Reading the rock adds a dimension that just can't be matched indoors. So, for example, an aesthetic 5.6 or 5.7 trad pitch can be immensely interesting, even if not particularly challenging. But a "5.6" in the gym ---- YAWN ---- just one big juggy after another!

And then, of course, there's the mountains.......

Enjoy! bw


"Whispering in their ears, we give them unquiet dreams."


robmcc


Sep 7, 2003, 12:44 AM
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Mine has three. The thrill, such as it was, is gone now that I can do them all, though.

But yeah, watch the fauna out there in the real world. Wasps, spiders, snakes, pigeons and other birds, etc. I had one blast out of a hole near the crack I was climbing once. That kind of surprise is NOT the thrill I enjoy in climbing.


robmcc


Sep 7, 2003, 12:46 AM
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But a "5.6" in the gym ---- YAWN ---- just one big juggy after another!

Woo! Like on "The Man Show"? I don't think that'd inspire a yawn, and besides, it'd probably be harder than 5.6 with all those slopers.


jookyhead


Sep 7, 2003, 1:13 AM
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Woo! Like on "The Man Show"? I don't think that'd inspire a yawn, and besides, it'd probably be harder than 5.6 with all those slopers.

My mind thought of that right away too :lol:
I wonder which is more rewarding, climbing a juggy or good ole rock?
Food for thought.


herm


Sep 7, 2003, 1:22 AM
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I just did a 5.4 in the Paiute Crags out of Bishop that is harder than any 5.12 in the ORG. There is a whole psychological factor that makes it a whole 'nother animal.


climbingjunky


Sep 7, 2003, 1:55 AM
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Obviously there are slab and crack climbs outdoors and not very many indoors. So One does not get a chance to practice them a lot indoors making it seem difficult when you go outdoors. Maybe it's not more difficult just different? Is there anyone out there who has climbed mostly outdoors and finds climbing indoors difficult? On harder routes, does following colored tape really make it easier to do the route or does it just limit your style and choice of holds? Curious. :?


johnfromohio


Sep 7, 2003, 2:12 AM
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i hate climbing routes indoor, it faces typically stupid moves since it takes to long to put one up, i dont mind climbing routes but follow tape hand holds but open feet, bouldering inside isnt bad follow tape since they can set certain moves, but above all, i prefer climbing outside, so much more real better, different moves, AND OPEN FEET :twisted:


ropeburn


Sep 7, 2003, 2:13 AM
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Deleted due to duplication. Darn invalid sessions.


ropeburn


Sep 7, 2003, 2:16 AM
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Is there anyone out there who has climbed mostly outdoors and finds climbing indoors difficult?

I climb better outdoors.
I don't climb that much in the gym though. Finding my own sequence instead of following someone else's has always given me more motivation to climb hard outdoors. Climbing indoors ccompletely takes away route and hold finding, which in my opinion is a complete aspect of rock climbing. Without this mental portion climbing seems somewhat benign.
Theres also those big pointy rocks underneath you instead of that cushy pad for motivation to just send it!


:mrgreen:


tahquitztwo


Sep 7, 2003, 2:43 AM
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I climb better outdoors....at least up two levels from what they rate gym climbs at. I've even managed to lead 5.9 outdoors (sport), I'm lucky if I can lead a 5.7 at the local gyms.

Outdoor climbing is so much more interesting, so many more possibilities to get from here to there rather than mindlessly following colored holds or tape. And, being rather on the short side, I find that the outdoor features allow me to make moves I simply can't do on those artificial "leap into the air" moves you're often required to do inside :D

Indoor climbing has it's place....strength training, being able to climb when the weather is lousy...but love that outdoor stuff 8)


mountrobson


Sep 7, 2003, 2:56 AM
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In reply to:
jookyhead wrote:
...it'd probably be harder than 5.6 with all those slopers.

Hmmm....then I guess it wouldn't be a 5.6?!

Hey, not trying to diss 5.6 gym climbers here. It's just that climbs at my gym (yeah, I spend a bit of time there, too!) that are labeled to be in that range are just a series of door-handles, one stacked atop the other, floor to ceiling. To me, not very interesting. But take the same grade to, say, the EF of Mt. Rundle, and you've got 18 pitches of problem solving, rope handling, route finding, reading the rock, lessons in efficiency, etc. etc. In a word: interesting! bw


overlord


Sep 7, 2003, 3:26 PM
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outdor is harder because of the fear and exposure. and sometimes not 100% pro.


drkodos


Sep 7, 2003, 3:47 PM
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It's all about the movement.

Indoor climbing cannot come close to recreating the types of movement required on natural rock.

Indoor climbing holds are finite and highly derivitive.

Outdoor presents an infintie number of ways in which to use the rock.


jipstyle


Sep 7, 2003, 4:26 PM
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Well said, Doc.

I'll add this: indoors, you are solving someone's problem; outdoors, you are solving Nature's problem.

Indoors, every single foothold is obvious; outdoors, they are not.

I think that the difference grows larger as you climb up the grades. On a .6, or .7, or .8, you can SEE those footholds .. indoors and out. The holds are obvious on these climbs (unless obscured by a natural formation .. which doesn't happen indoors unless you are pulling a roof).

On a .12, or a .13, though, your holds are miniscule .. footholds can be an edge hidden in shadow, or a divot that is only evident as your nose passes it. I've never had to make mental notes as I climb indoors ("Ah ... that looks like it could be a good foot .... ") because the bright holds make it unnecessary. Outdoors, however, I am constantly scanning the rock for footholds as my eyes are level with them, and memorizing their location.

That, for me, is why it is harder to climb hard outdoors than in.

As for which is more fun .. well .. I prefer sun to fluorescent lights, wind to fans, and birds chirping to children screaming. :)


climbingjunky


Sep 7, 2003, 6:14 PM
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Well put jipstyle! :wink: I concur. :) The more challenging it is, the more fun.


ncclimber


Sep 7, 2003, 7:52 PM
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Apples and Oranges.


ropeburn


Sep 7, 2003, 8:01 PM
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Apples and Oranges.

Real apples and plastic oranges, which one tastes better?

:mrgreen:


drkodos


Sep 7, 2003, 8:08 PM
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Apples and Oranges.

more similar than different, mate.

They are both:

fruits
spheroids
edible
have skins
organic
harvested
turned into juices, purees, and the like
popular as natural flavors
popular as un-natural flavors
cultural symbols

and many, many more!

When you say Apples and oranges, and mean that seriously as a way to say they aren't comparable, you hint that you may not wish to really think very hard....and that is ok.....but then why post??

You see you can't compare things that are the same, mate, because.....they are the same!

You can only adequately compare things that have siimilarities AND differences.

Think about it.....


jookyhead


Sep 7, 2003, 8:33 PM
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drkodos- i dare say you went into a little more detail than expected :P


Partner tyify


Sep 7, 2003, 9:19 PM
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havn't we already beat this topic to death?


drkodos


Sep 7, 2003, 10:06 PM
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yes, but all the other dead horses were preoccupied.....


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