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What are the smallest alpine aiders?
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iamthewallress


Sep 19, 2003, 11:14 AM
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What are the smallest alpine aiders?
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I'm looking for the lightest, most compact aiders I can find. Most likely traditional etrier style is best. I've only been able to find BD 5 steps. Does anyone make a 3 or 4 step?

They are for moving fast through short sections of sustained aid on otherwise free/french free climbs, so Russians aren't practical as we won't take the time to stop and put on the rig. It also doesn't seem possible to actually purchase them anyway.


petsfed


Sep 19, 2003, 11:32 AM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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Make them yourself. Tie'em or learn to bartack. *CAVEAT*: Aiders aren't runner strength, so why exactly will anyone worry about whether or not they fail and cost you your life?*CAVEAT* You can't buy them in 3-4 step sections, so make them.


Partner drector


Sep 19, 2003, 11:47 AM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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Just a thought... Cut off the steps you don't need.

If you do go with aiders with less steps, please comment asomehwre here after you use them about how they work. I'd be interested to know if the low step count was a hinderance.

Dave


brianinslc


Sep 19, 2003, 12:00 PM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I'm looking for the lightest, most compact aiders I can find. Most likely traditional etrier style is best. I've only been able to find BD 5 steps. Does anyone make a 3 or 4 step?

They are for moving fast through short sections of sustained aid on otherwise free/french free climbs, so Russians aren't practical as we won't take the time to stop and put on the rig. It also doesn't seem possible to actually purchase them anyway.

I think Petzl has a new lightweight pair that feed out of a small stuff sack. Only seen pics.

The BD ones are super compact and lightweight. I really like mine. Very low bulk.

I have a set of Onsight's Karak-ouram Aiders. 125g each. They are ladder design with stiffeners and velcro to a compact size that accordians out when you deploy them. Kinda cool. I think MEC sells them. You want to try, let me know, I'll send 'em to ya, because, well, you are the wall ress. Koo koo ca choo.

Brian in SLC


olympicmtnboy


Sep 19, 2003, 12:01 PM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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ABC makes a light 4 step aider, 120 grams I think, I'm not sure how that compares to anything else. I think Liberty Mountain distributes them. You can probably tie your own out of 5/8" webbing and be fine if you're not standing in em all day.


iamthewallress


Sep 19, 2003, 12:07 PM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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Compactness and lightess are both issues, and in my experience the knots on homemade aiders are bulky. There's just no chance of me getting my hands on a bartacker either.

I like the suggestion to cut the alpine 5 steps. I may do that if I can't find the 4's.

I'll have to have a look-see at your BinSLC. Did you get my e-mail?

Thanks!


epic_ed


Sep 19, 2003, 12:11 PM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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The Metolius pocket aiders look pretty sweet (and are 4 steps, ladder style):

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/aidersladder.htm

I haven't tried them, but fondled a pair in the store. Very compact and light weight. The "pocket" feature makes them great for the type of aiding you're talking about. It stores them away unobtrusively when not needed.

Ed


flamer


Sep 19, 2003, 12:16 PM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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Metolious has been making lightweight aiders that fit into there own stuff sack for a number of years now, the ones that Petzl now makes are very similiar. Either brand would be exactly what you need. Yates makes a very lightweight "alpine aider" Or drop them a line they sewed a pair of aiders out of 9/16" spectra for my buddy- and they didn't charge him an arm and a leg.
josh


kai_da_klimba


Sep 19, 2003, 10:45 PM
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Re: What are the smallest alpine aiders? [In reply to]
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I am new to this forum, but I have shopped around a bit and tried out two sets of "alpine" aiders - the Black Diamond ones and the Petzl "Looping" which I got from IMO (was hard to find). The Petzl is nice in that it has wider webbing like big standard aiders but only four steps. The BD have five steps but narrow webbing which I found to be a pain cuz it tangles more and makes it harder to get into the steps. The drawback with the Petzl ones is that they are pretty short which required a bit of effort for getting into the bottom step on placements that were further (not even far) apart.
For the purpose you described, I think it's very important that you figure out a system to fold whichever aiders you get up nicely and quickly. The Petzl seem better for that since due to their stiffness they fold up pretty cleanly. I don't have experience with those pockets one the metolius aiders, but those aiders as such seem like they'd have the same drawbacks as the BDs.
BTW the BD aiders weighed in at 111g, and I'll weigh my Petzls some time if you remind me...

k


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