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the_crawler
Sep 18, 2003, 5:13 PM
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Do any of you know what I'm talking about! For me, now, the notion that there is a mental state associated with climbing your best is a topic I'd like to have feed back on, Experienced climbers and newbies alike. If you can and have the inclination, could you share with me what it's like for you. For me the climbing is the most satisfying when i've done something (a climb, a move) regardless of relative difficulty and i feel as if my mind has let go and my body works on what it knows without interference from my mind. This is the way it feels to me. Can you explain the felling you get when you climb the freest.
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superfox
Sep 19, 2003, 10:18 PM
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I have sometimes felt this, but in two different ways. One is on easier routes where I don't have to think about the moves, and it feels like my arms and legs just go where they were meant to go, and everything flows effortlessly. That feeling of continuity and connection to the rock makes some easier climbs great.
The second way is on harder routes, or boulder problems, where I have been working moves for 10+ tries. This happened most recently at Rumney, at Things as They Are Now, 12a, at Rumney. The crux is from the ground to five or six moves up, and I worked on it more than ten times, and finally I stuck the dyno from a really bad sidepull crimper. I had all of those moves in my head, and that was all I was thinking about. I focused on the hold I was dynoing for, and I just grabbed it. It felt amazing, even though I didn't finish the route.
The time I most remember seeing something like someone being in "the zone" was when I was belaying one of my friends on King Cobra, 13b, which is a relatively long sport route. It was getting dark, and halfway up he started not being able to see some of the holds. He powered up the beginning, rested on a ledge, then did some insane moves to about two thirds of the way up, twisting his body to keep his balance on a thin, arching crack. The climb continued up, and about 20 feet from the anchors he dynoed for a hold, and missed. I lowered him after he scoped out all the holds he missed at the crux, and he was really excited. "Oh man, I've never felt that powerful. I've never felt that powerful", he kept repeating over and over again. Although he narrowly missed on-sighting his first 13b (having on-sighted 13a), he sent it about two minutes later.
Adrenaline's a powerful thing. . .
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johnfromohio
Sep 19, 2003, 11:18 PM
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i have been in the zone a couple of times, when i go to places and there is tons of new stuff that i havent been on (outside) and i send a bunch of things and I dont even feel worked.
2nd, is when i am on a hard hard hard problem and i linked it for the first time. Everything felt good, moves easier, btw finally figured out how i can do it over and over and over and over atleast on that problem :D
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alpinerock
Sep 19, 2003, 11:47 PM
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The last time i was in "the zone" was probaly this morning when i went bouldering, the people i was with (dale goddard, Rob wuebcker and tom cadwell)just seemed to be invincible on the rocks and i guess it was kinda contangious. for me its like the perfect focus, every thing else drains out except for the rock, my muscle tense up, every single thing is drained out except the next move, and then jsut go for it. i feel well... impowered, invincible, focused, no hesitation at all... just me and the rock
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meataxe
Sep 21, 2003, 8:06 PM
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Not in climbing, but in cycling. In the middle of one race, my brain just "snapped" into place. I thought: "I can go a lot faster." I just started pushing and passed a bunch of riders. I was probably headed toward a mid-pack finish, but after I started moving, I salvaged 5th place or something like that. The feeling was close to what I would call a physical expression of "joy".
I experienced about a 10-20% boost in power. The power of the mind is astounding.
If only there was a switch you could use to turn it on.
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the_crawler
Sep 21, 2003, 8:51 PM
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there might be!
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roughster
Sep 22, 2003, 4:53 AM
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When I get "Zoned In" I often forget to clip bolts hehe. Sometimes I just see the moves and forget that I am leading and really should clip those things that are swinging next to me as I climb on bye!
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wyclimber
Sep 22, 2003, 5:38 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 1999
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I feel like every time I step off the ground I am in a Zone, I have to be. Concentration, control, power, balance and flow. Sometimes things become even more focused though and you just push through whatever mental blocks your mind throws at you. I guess when the mental aspect is over-powered by the physical aspect of climbing - thats when stuff gets sent for me. thats my Zone. Thats probably what your asking for, isn't it?
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wc
Sep 25, 2003, 10:59 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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There is a book called "Body Mind and Sport" by some guy I can't remember, but I can find out. It mostly deals with running. It addresses other more convential sports but not climbing. It deals with using specific breathing while exercising, eating the right kind of food for your body and activity, and making that ZONE a more common experience rather than a rare occurance.
It is a bit lame at times but it has some good points. It references a bunch of Vedic medicine stuff so if you are turned off by that don't bother...
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