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salparadise
Sep 21, 2003, 6:15 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 52
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Hey all,
I am a beginning trad climber who is going up to Lover's Leap tomorrow. I've found lots of beta for most the climbs up there, but thought that I would see what routes people really enjoyed at my level (5.6/5.7). I only have one day and am considering: The farce, Deception, East Wall, Pop Bottle, and Knapsack Crack to get a feel for climbing there. Is East Wall as scary as some say (many say they wouldn't recommend it for a beginner)? Also, the largest piece that I have is a #3 Cam and the beta that I've seen for a few of the routes say "pro to 3.5"", will I be OK with that (I've got lots of smaller pieces). Thanks for your input!
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radistrad
Sep 21, 2003, 6:28 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
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I would recommend that your first trip to the Leap is with a more experienced climber. While I am sure that you will do ok, you will find that some of the protection behind some flakes can be less than adequate.
Pop Bottle is a great climb but it still has its challenges, its more like 5.7 than 5.6. The pitch with the bolt (off of the large ledge) can be scary and a bit tricky.
The traverse on East Wall can be scary.
Bears Reach is classic, your first piece of gear is 15' off of the deck the next piece is a ground fall if you slip. You can get by with a #3 Camalot, but you will likely want more than one. I recommend up to a #4 Camalot, especially if you dont traverse off of the last pitch (5.4 varation), also protect the traverse for your partner.
How about a trip to Donner Summit for your first multi pitch, School Rock is great for this.
Good luck and climb safe
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joebuzz
Sep 21, 2003, 7:22 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2002
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I agree with Rad. Go with a more experienced leader, or try to hook up with someone in the campsites. East Wall is one of my favorite warm-ups at the Leap, but the leading there can be "Heady" in nature. Placing gear behind flakes and such takes experience. I pretty much learned to climb at the Leap many years ago, but followed a friend who led everything for almost a full season before he would hand me the sharp end.
Have fun out there.
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moco2
Sep 21, 2003, 9:31 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2003
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Knapsack crack on the hogsback at the leap. Very straight forward and mellow. read about it online b4 you go, and get all the info. Stay away from the farce till later.
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tim
Sep 21, 2003, 9:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
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I thought Corrugation Corner was fun and casual, but it could be a bad fall if you come off for some reason. (although isn't that true of pretty much anything under 5.9-5.10 or so?) I pretty much soloed the first pitch and don't remember feeling too antsy about gear on the second, but I do remember it being important to stay to the right or else you get off route in this little nook with a 5.10ish traverse back onto the route with no pro. Which sucked.
But the rest of the route ruled. It's probably really crowded on weekends; I only ever went up to the Leap a couple of weekdays when I lived in SF.
Have fun on whatever you do!
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salparadise
Sep 22, 2003, 12:11 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 52
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Thanks for all of the adice, everyone. I think that if I go I might just stick ot the hogsback, I'm only comfortable doing 5.7 if the pro is real easy. However, I might give Donner Summit a try. I've never climbed there and it's supposed to be 20 degrees cooler there tomorrow. Anyone know of an ideal place to camp there (Donner Summit)?
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