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Which country has it easier
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adamfromoz


Sep 22, 2003, 1:44 AM
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Which country has it easier
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When it comes to grading who has a say about which country or system is better. I am obviously going to say Australia cause ti seems so simple 1-34. 1 being the easiest (walking) and 34 the hardest. I think it may come down to the fact that aussies are pretty simple people and dont like to think too hard about things. Anythoughts.

Oh and I need a climbing partner in sydney to explore for a couple of days in october


elvis


Sep 22, 2003, 2:12 AM
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The South African system is similar to the Aussie one only we got it right and we know how to play cricket and rugby better


roughster


Sep 22, 2003, 2:42 AM
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Actually I would say the Aussie scale is about the only scale out there that makes any sense at all (at least for routes). If we could get everyone on board with one scale, it should be the aussie scale.


shawkshaw


Sep 22, 2003, 5:13 AM
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id agree with that. australian is the easiest and the best!

an added bonus is you get to climb your age and use it to move up the grades if you want to. its a slow way of doing it but its a good motivator if birthdays are coming up.

it is very easy to understand.

34 is the hardest at present in the blue mountains, Australia but i think realization etc are considered 35 (?)

steve


dc


Sep 22, 2003, 5:17 AM
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ill have to agree...

the aussie system is DEFINATELY the best system..

simple and sweet...

aussie pride :P


roughster


Sep 22, 2003, 5:19 AM
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In reply to:
ill have to agree...

the aussie system is DEFINATELY the best system..

simple and sweet...

aussie pride :P

I just think the aussie weren't smart enough to come up with anything more elaborate than counting, 1..2...3..4..etc.. heheh :lol: But, eh? Simplicity has its place in the world and I think Route Grading Scales is one of them!


crux_clipper


Sep 22, 2003, 5:32 AM
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Elvis Wrote

The South African system is similar to the Aussie one only we got it right and we know how to play cricket and rugby better

really? since when??? lol

In reply to:
Roughster wrote:

I just think the aussie weren't smart enough to come up with anything more elaborate than counting, 1..2...3..4..etc.. heheh

Its called beer. and besides, haven't most of the best and simplest ideas in the world come from a gathering of drunken mates at the pub?

For factual sake: John Ewbank created our "Ewbank" system of grading back in the 1960's, and the south african system is about 2-3 grades higher eg. gr. 30 AUS = gr. 32/33 SA


jens


Sep 23, 2003, 6:59 PM
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Things always seem harder for South Africans! That's why the rating difference. :D

Bloody oath!


alpinerock


Sep 23, 2003, 7:54 PM
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Hands down the aussie.


robmcc


Sep 23, 2003, 9:42 PM
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YDS, absolutely.

By God, if it's hard to climb, it better be hard to grade, too!
\


curt


Sep 23, 2003, 9:52 PM
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In reply to:
When it comes to grading who has a say about which country or system is better. I am obviously going to say Australia cause ti seems so simple 1-34. 1 being the easiest (walking) and 34 the hardest. I think it may come down to the fact that aussies are pretty simple people and dont like to think too hard about things. Anythoughts.

Oh and I need a climbing partner in sydney to explore for a couple of days in october

Sure, but the Macintosh is much more simple to understand and use than a PC, isn't it? And just look what's happened. So maybe its just a matter of marketing. Hahahaha.

Curt


youmeanupthere


Sep 23, 2003, 10:51 PM
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I think Curt is right. It's not always the easiest system that is the most enticing. It looks so much more impressive when a rating comes with both letters and numbers. For many people, that caption with a YDS looks like so much more. Is one better? I dont know


roughster


Sep 24, 2003, 12:43 AM
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In reply to:
YDS, absolutely.

By God, if it's hard to climb, it better be hard to grade, too!
\

LOL.


jansuw


Sep 24, 2003, 1:05 AM
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I think Curt is right. It's not always the easiest system that is the most enticing. It looks so much more impressive when a rating comes with both letters and numbers. For many people, that caption with a YDS looks like so much more. Is one better? I dont know
So we should use whatever looks most confusing? Shouldn't that be the British grades then? I have no idea what anything stands for, they have their 6c's and what not but they have an E grade in front of it and all these different extensions. I like the Finnish system, 4 to whatever, 4-, 4, 4+, etc...

However, I feel that it would suck if all countries had the same system. It would completely ruin the fun in travelling and climbing in different places! I mean, do you want to go to the Font and look at V grades or 5.xx? Probably not, because the different system is part of the fun.... right?


teddy


Sep 24, 2003, 5:31 AM
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34 is the hardest at present in the blue mountains, Australia but i think realization etc are considered 35 (?)

steve
You see that's the beauty of the aussie system, it just keeps going up with out sounding stupid... like americans would have (if we had some genetically engineered freaks) like 5.20e which just sounds stupid whereas ours would get up to like 56... and nah realization is a 37, just think whatever the grades go up to on the charts then for every letter or anything in american, add another number is essentially the grading


robmcc


Sep 24, 2003, 5:40 AM
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just think whatever the grades go up to on the charts then for every letter or anything in american, add another number is essentially the grading

Sounds like the Aussie system is 5.1 or 5.2, at best. Too easy to be bothered with, really.

Come on, if someone doesn't have the mental agility to figure out that 5.10b is harder than 5.10a and a 5.11a, b, c, or d is harder than either, I don't think they'd have the mental agility to handle the climb anyway.

YDS has a story! It has a soul! Sure, absent that history you can see an open ended system is simpler and suck the life right out of it. There's something just innately satisfying getting on a 5.10 and thinking "Once upon a time premier climbers thought this wasn't possible."


koto


Sep 24, 2003, 6:53 AM
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I am actually a little bit dissillusioned with the Ewbank system, this is because it guages a route by its crux only, and doesn't take into account the route as a whole. So for example a guide book might say a route is 23, but in actual fact the majority of the route may be grade 15 with two or three moves at 23 after which it backs off. This IMO is a little inadequate and can be misleading as another route may be graded 23 aswell and have say 15+ moves that are consistently the grade, one is obviously going to be harder than the other, yet they are graded the same. :?

I don't know much about the YDS, but does it take into account a route in its entirety? I think this would be much better.


bumblie


Sep 24, 2003, 7:17 AM
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This is where topos and/or route descriptions come in handy.


gritstoner


Sep 24, 2003, 9:17 AM
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the british system is best, as it not only tells you how hard the crux is, but also how much death potentile there is (hence the E for extreme etc).
besides we have the best rugby teams and beer in the world


Partner coldclimb


Sep 24, 2003, 9:28 AM
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Never climbed anything with a rating besides the V scale or the YDS, so I really can't tell you. I know the YDS best though. ;)

37 different ratings seems kinda difficult to tell them apart though. If I climb a fairly easy route, I can say 5.8 without having to think much. I wouldn't want to have to figure out one number out of 37.


thomasribiere


Sep 24, 2003, 11:50 AM
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Guess here in France we have a rating for sport routes, boulders, but also traverses. ANd our beers and our rugby team are not the best in the world... :cry:


shawkshaw


Sep 24, 2003, 5:40 PM
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37 different ratings seems kinda difficult to tell them apart though. If I climb a fairly easy route, I can say 5.8 without having to think much. I wouldn't want to have to figure out one number out of 37.

but that means you have less grades than us?? i dont get your point. how many grades does YDS system have?

steve


Partner coldclimb


Sep 24, 2003, 6:23 PM
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Ten or eleven, if it's me that's climbing. :lol: :lol:


soma


Sep 24, 2003, 6:33 PM
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The South African system is similar to the Aussie one only we got it right and we know how to play cricket and rugby better

Fantastic.

Dave

PS I hate the north american system. Aussie a SA know what's up.

5.10b?? Stupid


dc


Sep 30, 2003, 11:42 PM
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I hate the north american system. Aussie a SA know what's up.

5.10b?? Stupid

once again.. i would have to agree!!

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