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adamfromoz
Sep 22, 2003, 8:44 AM
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When it comes to grading who has a say about which country or system is better. I am obviously going to say Australia cause ti seems so simple 1-34. 1 being the easiest (walking) and 34 the hardest. I think it may come down to the fact that aussies are pretty simple people and dont like to think too hard about things. Anythoughts.
Oh and I need a climbing partner in sydney to explore for a couple of days in october
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elvis
Sep 22, 2003, 9:12 AM
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The South African system is similar to the Aussie one only we got it right and we know how to play cricket and rugby better
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roughster
Sep 22, 2003, 9:42 AM
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Actually I would say the Aussie scale is about the only scale out there that makes any sense at all (at least for routes). If we could get everyone on board with one scale, it should be the aussie scale.
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shawkshaw
Sep 22, 2003, 12:13 PM
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id agree with that. australian is the easiest and the best!
an added bonus is you get to climb your age and use it to move up the grades if you want to. its a slow way of doing it but its a good motivator if birthdays are coming up.
it is very easy to understand.
34 is the hardest at present in the blue mountains, Australia but i think realization etc are considered 35 (?)
steve
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dc
Sep 22, 2003, 12:17 PM
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ill have to agree...
the aussie system is DEFINATELY the best system..
simple and sweet...
aussie pride :P
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roughster
Sep 22, 2003, 12:19 PM
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In reply to: ill have to agree... the aussie system is DEFINATELY the best system.. simple and sweet... aussie pride :P
I just think the aussie weren't smart enough to come up with anything more elaborate than counting, 1..2...3..4..etc.. heheh :lol: But, eh? Simplicity has its place in the world and I think Route Grading Scales is one of them!
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crux_clipper
Sep 22, 2003, 12:32 PM
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In reply to: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Elvis Wrote The South African system is similar to the Aussie one only we got it right and we know how to play cricket and rugby better
really? since when??? lol
In reply to: Roughster wrote: I just think the aussie weren't smart enough to come up with anything more elaborate than counting, 1..2...3..4..etc.. heheh
Its called beer. and besides, haven't most of the best and simplest ideas in the world come from a gathering of drunken mates at the pub?
For factual sake: John Ewbank created our "Ewbank" system of grading back in the 1960's, and the south african system is about 2-3 grades higher eg. gr. 30 AUS = gr. 32/33 SA
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jens
Sep 24, 2003, 1:59 AM
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Things always seem harder for South Africans! That's why the rating difference. :D
Bloody oath!
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alpinerock
Sep 24, 2003, 2:54 AM
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Hands down the aussie.
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robmcc
Sep 24, 2003, 4:42 AM
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YDS, absolutely.
By God, if it's hard to climb, it better be hard to grade, too!
\
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curt
Sep 24, 2003, 4:52 AM
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In reply to: When it comes to grading who has a say about which country or system is better. I am obviously going to say Australia cause ti seems so simple 1-34. 1 being the easiest (walking) and 34 the hardest. I think it may come down to the fact that aussies are pretty simple people and dont like to think too hard about things. Anythoughts. Oh and I need a climbing partner in sydney to explore for a couple of days in october
Sure, but the Macintosh is much more simple to understand and use than a PC, isn't it? And just look what's happened. So maybe its just a matter of marketing. Hahahaha.
Curt
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youmeanupthere
Sep 24, 2003, 5:51 AM
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I think Curt is right. It's not always the easiest system that is the most enticing. It looks so much more impressive when a rating comes with both letters and numbers. For many people, that caption with a YDS looks like so much more. Is one better? I dont know
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roughster
Sep 24, 2003, 7:43 AM
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In reply to: YDS, absolutely. By God, if it's hard to climb, it better be hard to grade, too! \
LOL.
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jansuw
Sep 24, 2003, 8:05 AM
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In reply to: I think Curt is right. It's not always the easiest system that is the most enticing. It looks so much more impressive when a rating comes with both letters and numbers. For many people, that caption with a YDS looks like so much more. Is one better? I dont know
However, I feel that it would suck if all countries had the same system. It would completely ruin the fun in travelling and climbing in different places! I mean, do you want to go to the Font and look at V grades or 5.xx? Probably not, because the different system is part of the fun.... right?
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teddy
Sep 24, 2003, 12:31 PM
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In reply to: 34 is the hardest at present in the blue mountains, Australia but i think realization etc are considered 35 (?) steve |
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robmcc
Sep 24, 2003, 12:40 PM
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In reply to: just think whatever the grades go up to on the charts then for every letter or anything in american, add another number is essentially the grading
Sounds like the Aussie system is 5.1 or 5.2, at best. Too easy to be bothered with, really.
Come on, if someone doesn't have the mental agility to figure out that 5.10b is harder than 5.10a and a 5.11a, b, c, or d is harder than either, I don't think they'd have the mental agility to handle the climb anyway.
YDS has a story! It has a soul! Sure, absent that history you can see an open ended system is simpler and suck the life right out of it. There's something just innately satisfying getting on a 5.10 and thinking "Once upon a time premier climbers thought this wasn't possible."
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koto
Sep 24, 2003, 1:53 PM
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I am actually a little bit dissillusioned with the Ewbank system, this is because it guages a route by its crux only, and doesn't take into account the route as a whole. So for example a guide book might say a route is 23, but in actual fact the majority of the route may be grade 15 with two or three moves at 23 after which it backs off. This IMO is a little inadequate and can be misleading as another route may be graded 23 aswell and have say 15+ moves that are consistently the grade, one is obviously going to be harder than the other, yet they are graded the same. :?
I don't know much about the YDS, but does it take into account a route in its entirety? I think this would be much better.
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bumblie
Sep 24, 2003, 2:17 PM
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This is where topos and/or route descriptions come in handy.
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gritstoner
Sep 24, 2003, 4:17 PM
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the british system is best, as it not only tells you how hard the crux is, but also how much death potentile there is (hence the E for extreme etc).
besides we have the best rugby teams and beer in the world
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coldclimb
Sep 24, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Never climbed anything with a rating besides the V scale or the YDS, so I really can't tell you. I know the YDS best though. ;)
37 different ratings seems kinda difficult to tell them apart though. If I climb a fairly easy route, I can say 5.8 without having to think much. I wouldn't want to have to figure out one number out of 37.
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thomasribiere
Sep 24, 2003, 6:50 PM
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Guess here in France we have a rating for sport routes, boulders, but also traverses. ANd our beers and our rugby team are not the best in the world... :cry:
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shawkshaw
Sep 25, 2003, 12:40 AM
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In reply to: 37 different ratings seems kinda difficult to tell them apart though. If I climb a fairly easy route, I can say 5.8 without having to think much. I wouldn't want to have to figure out one number out of 37.
but that means you have less grades than us?? i dont get your point. how many grades does YDS system have?
steve
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coldclimb
Sep 25, 2003, 1:23 AM
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Ten or eleven, if it's me that's climbing. :lol: :lol:
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soma
Sep 25, 2003, 1:33 AM
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In reply to: The South African system is similar to the Aussie one only we got it right and we know how to play cricket and rugby better
Fantastic.
Dave
PS I hate the north american system. Aussie a SA know what's up.
5.10b?? Stupid
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dc
Oct 1, 2003, 6:42 AM
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In reply to: I hate the north american system. Aussie a SA know what's up. 5.10b?? Stupid
once again.. i would have to agree!!
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