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University Wall,Squamish B.C.
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krustyklimber


Feb 7, 2002, 10:00 PM
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University Wall,Squamish B.C.
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  I don't know if this is the right forum for this question, but here goes. Has anyone out there ever done the last few pitches of the aid route University Wall? I've met many, what do you call 'em, big wall theorists and a few people who like me bailed before the top. I heared some horror story about a long hooking traverse with mankey bolts near the top, please tell me it isn't so, I don't mind a few cam hook moves, but "sharp hook" moves scare the crap out of me! Any beta would be great!
Jeff
P.S. Hello? Is this thing on? If this is the wrong forum please let me know which one I should post it on. Thank you.
P.P.S. I answered every thread with zero replies I could to try to build some karma, but still no beta,HELP I'm supposed to try again soon!

[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-02-09 22:59 ]

[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-02-10 05:44 ]


kelownaclimber


Mar 23, 2002, 6:11 AM
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University Wall,Squamish B.C. [In reply to]
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I'll see if I can dig up some beta for you...have never been on that route before so am not sure.The route does go free at 12a and you finish up Roman Chimmeys Direct which has an 11d pitch up a thin groove.I'll call one of my Squamish friends and try to get you the low down on it!

P.S. Peter Croft&Hamish Fraser did the FFA in 1982!


krustyklimber


Mar 23, 2002, 8:17 PM
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University Wall,Squamish B.C. [In reply to]
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Mike,
I most certainly will not be free climbing it! But any beta you could come up with would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

P.S. Does Hamish Fraser really exsist, or is he someone you C'nucks made up so us 'Merricans would feel inferior?


beyond_gravity


Mar 24, 2002, 9:43 AM
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University Wall,Squamish B.C. [In reply to]
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My cousin is in squamish right now, i doubt he will be doing any aid, but it might be in his guide book. I'll take a look when he gets back.

Rock On,
Jeremy


smellydude


Mar 24, 2002, 10:33 AM
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University Wall,Squamish B.C. [In reply to]
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Heading up to Squamish now. And yes Hamish Fraser is like a story told to young children to keep them out of trouble. A mythical giant told around campfires.

I aided U-Wall and backed off the last pitches because of light rather than rumours. They are dirty but are fine. There s a pic somewhere of the pitch near the top of the traversing finger lip with pitons banged in for pro. gottalove it.


krustyklimber


Mar 24, 2002, 9:50 PM
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University Wall,Squamish B.C. [In reply to]
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Thanks,
I have the guide book. And I have seen the tiny photo of an unknown, to me, part of the route so it isn't of much help to me. But I do welcome your response .

Jeff


kelownaclimber


Apr 2, 2002, 6:45 AM
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Krusty,
Heres the beta for you.If you are gonna do University wall to the top by aid,There is like only or two hook moves.Damian said it is very straight foward.He said the crux is getting your pig off Bellygood ledge.Let me know if you are heading up to do it and I can prob. give you his number.Beta is always better first hand.
P.S. Most people traverse off at Bellygood ledge if you are aiding.Roman chimmeys would be a good finish if you are freeing.Hope this helps you out some!!

[ This Message was edited by: kelownaclimber on 2002-04-02 07:42 ]


krustyklimber


Apr 4, 2002, 1:50 AM
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It helps ALOT You are my hero!

Jeff


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