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fredo
Sep 16, 2003, 7:51 PM
Post #26 of 46
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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I like the La Sportiva Enduro, I also enjoy using the Scarpa Generator if my enduros are in the shop
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jtreelizard
Sep 16, 2003, 10:59 PM
Post #27 of 46
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Registered: Jan 28, 2003
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I've been using the Newtons and I love them. I found that I needed the size a bit bigger than I normally get with other shoes (has anyone else noticed this, or do I just have a weird pair?) :? Also, don't buy them a size too small expecting them to stretch! :x
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ronamick
Sep 18, 2003, 1:53 AM
Post #28 of 46
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
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Whaddya mean TRAD shoe? You're gonna climb on rock, right? Get rock climbing shoes, ya twit!
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ronamick
Sep 18, 2003, 1:58 AM
Post #29 of 46
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In reply to: I really like my EBs from 1976. They seem to be really sticky and great in cracks. :lol:
Have you put those things on recently? I remember my first pair. I called them "magic shoes" because of the wondrous things they enabled me to do on the rock.
I tried the old ee bees again last year, and I am absolutely certain that I could climb better with plywood boxes tied to my feet with baling wire. They didn't feel bad, they felt horrible. Don't edge, don't smear.... how did we manage to climb 5.11 in those things!?
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rckjock
Sep 18, 2003, 2:01 AM
Post #30 of 46
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Registered: Jan 24, 2002
Posts: 24
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Same as for any other climbing... Depends on the climb..
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dlintz
Sep 18, 2003, 3:50 AM
Post #31 of 46
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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Love my Ascents. I can't rave about their "mad crack skilz" but they get the job done.
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acrofobic
Sep 18, 2003, 5:17 AM
Post #32 of 46
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Registered: Jun 2, 2003
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ronamick, yeah, I tried them on again. pretty lame. Real hard on the feet. i know what you mean by boxes.
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knuckles
Sep 18, 2003, 6:21 AM
Post #33 of 46
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 650
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I don't go far back enough for EB's but I did bust out my old Fires recently... pretty bad indeed. I distinctly remember when the Ninja first came out and all my climbing buddys looked at me like I was nuts for wearing them instead of getting a new pair of Fire Cat II's.
I do wish that they would bring back something that would cover some of my ankle for those long cracks and still climb pretty well. I miss my Kendos...
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acrofobic
Sep 18, 2003, 8:00 AM
Post #34 of 46
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Registered: Jun 2, 2003
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The first thing we would do with the old EBs was barge cement and sew suede onto the back half of the EBs to provide more protection in the cracks than the canvas provided.
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kirkbrode
Sep 24, 2003, 5:06 AM
Post #35 of 46
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 26
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Depends largly upon the shape of your foot. What's great for all these other folks may not get great for you. That said, you should choose one made by La Sportiva.
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traddad
Sep 24, 2003, 1:55 PM
Post #36 of 46
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
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I have a pair of Newtons and I love/hate them. They fit great, are comfy, but they are WAY TOO STIFF (for me). They also came with a bad batch of rubber. They weren't even sticky out of the box. They aren't sticky even after I sand on 'em with 80 grit and wash 'em off. I'm seriously considering getting them resoled and having the resoler remove the mid sole.
I liked my Mythos. I use the Mad Rock Shark for cracks (only). Anasazi Velcros if the route is 99% face.
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rrrADAM
Sep 24, 2003, 2:06 PM
Post #37 of 46
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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Whatever fits comfortably, and performs well... You can have em on for a while. :wink:
Lace ups tend to be the best, as they can be tied tight for edging performance, or loose for comfort and smearing.
I liked the Five-Ten Newtons, but now the EVOLV Bandits the best.
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bishop
Sep 24, 2003, 2:08 PM
Post #38 of 46
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 192
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the one that fits and can be worn all day
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dredsovrn
Sep 24, 2003, 2:16 PM
Post #39 of 46
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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I have seen the Mocasyms mentioned by many climbers. I am in the market for my next pair of shoes. If you have them, have you found them to be a good all around shoe. I am learing trad, do a lot of TR, boulder at least once a week, and find myself in the gym from time to time. I would prefer not to have specialized shoes for different applications. Is it neccessary? It seems unlikely, but I would like to get some feedback.
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tradmike
Sep 24, 2003, 2:21 PM
Post #40 of 46
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 15
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If you have a wider shaped foot you will love the LaSportiva Mega for an all purpose shoe. It is very comfortable on long routes. This is the first shoe that I can actually wear all day without any pain. I have tried Scarpa, Five Ten, and other LaSportiva shoes and have been less than happy. The "Mega" rules on comfort (if you have a wider foot).
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norskagent
Sep 24, 2003, 2:27 PM
Post #41 of 46
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Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 409
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the old purple la sportiva mariachers.
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omenbringer
Sep 24, 2003, 2:54 PM
Post #42 of 46
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
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I love my old plum colored huecos they are awesome I virtual never take them off when climbing they fit me great right out of the box and seem to do a little bit of everything well. It seems 5.10 has brought them back this year in a gray color. Can hardly wait. As for the mocasym they were awesome as well. I like both. It seems a great crack shoe should have zero camber, leave that for the steep stuff otherwise your feet will be screaming like mine in my katanas when I try the thin stuff.
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gretchino
Sep 26, 2003, 3:08 PM
Post #44 of 46
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Registered: Feb 17, 2003
Posts: 393
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The one that works best for you! :wink:
I'm a La Sportiva gal though...mainly because I've not tried any other brand, but they're well made and fit my anorexic foot really well.
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toejam
Sep 29, 2003, 11:41 AM
Post #45 of 46
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 358
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I like my Boreal Ballet Gold more than the Mythos for Trad climbing. They are almost as sensitive as the Mythos but much better for jamming. The rubber they came with didn't last long though, tore right through to the rand sliding off of a hold after only a few outings.
I have a pair of Red Chili Sausalitos that are good for long low-grade trad climbs. They are very durable and really comfortable in cracks, but not great smearing on anything slick.
As I see it, the stiffer the last on the shoe, the more comfortable it is in foot jams, and on long climbs. The trade-off is loss of sensitivity on face. A pointed toe area is nice for toejams.
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dc
Sep 29, 2003, 11:53 AM
Post #46 of 46
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 355
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In reply to: you should choose one made by La Sportiva.
well said! i personally prefer the Cobras... you know .. the blazing orange, how-can-you-miss-them shoes...
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