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sizzlechest
Feb 9, 2002, 4:13 AM
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here is an excerpt i found on rec.climbing, what the hell was legrand thinking, if he actually did this he should be pummeled
I'm kind of surprised actually that someone else hasn't beaten me to
this. There was a letter to the editor in R&I 114 from Adam Stack that
points out that it appears that Francois Legrand chipped and drilled
Kryptonite, the 14d route that Tommy Caldwell put up last year. At the
time that Tommy redpointed it much was made of the fact that it was a
totally natural route and was possibly the most difficult route in the
US. Now it seems that when FL was attempting to redpoint it last summer
he enhanced and comfortized numerous holds and drilled a 3-finger pocket
before the crux. In the understatement of the year, Adam Stack states
that; "Francois' actions take away from the statement Tommy made."
(BTW, FL never did climb the route, but he sure had plenty of excuses as
to why he climbed like s--- when he was on his US roadtrip)
So, what do people think about this? Is this a load of s--- or what? Is
this guy a dickless wonder or what? What I want to know is, who will be
the first person to kick Francois' skinny ass when he shows his face at
any American sportclimbing area again.
[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-02-08 20:13 ]
[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-02-08 20:46 ]
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biff
Feb 14, 2002, 8:39 PM
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I believe that Francois will have his word on this topic in next months climbing magazine (or is it rock and ice, you better by both).
he will say that this is just a rumor, and that he didn't modify the route in anyway, and that the various camera crew, and Yuji Hirayama will be able to verify that.
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wigglestick
Feb 14, 2002, 8:46 PM
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Actually, I heard that Adam Stack and Tommy went up there so Adam could work the route. Tommy was giving beta to Adam like "grab that painfully sharp two finger pocket" only the pocket wasn't sharp and some of Tommy's beta didn't match what was up there. They also found tissues stuffed into some of the holds, presumably to soak up moisture. I guess they figured that since Francois was the only one who has publicized to be working the route and he is French so he must have chipped the route.
Although Francois denies doing any chipping or "comfortizing" of the holds. And Yuri Hiryhami (or whatever) backs him up and says that he did no such thing.
Nobody saw Francois chipping so it is all speculation. I personally don't think Francois would be that stupid. I doubt he would go and chip down the "hardest route in America" cause he knows that the media would jump all over him. If the route has been chipped a more likely candidate would be a nobody, no name, Boulder-ite with something to prove. I would reserve judgement and the afore mentioned ass-kicking until all the facts are in.
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fiend
Feb 14, 2002, 9:05 PM
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The rumor is that Tommy was giving Adam beta, Adam cruised sections that Tommy found hard, Tommy got pissy and said "it must have been chipped"
Tommy 'All American' Caldwell apparently lied about the entire Kyrgystan episode, blowing it way out of proportion to cash in on the situation. Let him bitch and moan because someone else did Kryptonite better than him.
Besides, all of this is just speculation.
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mountainhardon
Feb 14, 2002, 10:40 PM
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if that l'il french fairy did chip those routes, he'll burn in hell for it.
if little tommy pansy boy lied about all that other shite, he'll burn in hell with his thumb up legrand's ass.
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sizzlechest
Feb 14, 2002, 11:20 PM
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okay photon you found me out, the only hole in your theory is that if i was related to a chimp i should be able to climb better, but that doesn't seem to pan out !!! you had me laughing, good one
guys may'be the dude didn't chip or enhance i hate to rush to a conclusion without having proof, i guess time will tell.....
[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-02-14 15:20 ]
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gekolimit
Feb 14, 2002, 11:40 PM
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Hey Photon....Don't be such a D..K. Sizzle is just raising a discussion and i don't care if you have personal problems concerning such a discussion but if you do, then don't go about insulting people.
Perhaps you didn't realize that he wasn't stating, yet he was asking.
Chill people, we should do nothing else then encourage eachother!
"Climb On"
[ This Message was edited by: gekolimit on 2002-02-14 15:41 ]
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codey
Feb 17, 2002, 10:58 PM
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Tommy is very strong.That is all!
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pushfurther
Feb 18, 2002, 1:03 AM
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why do people worry whether someone chipped a route they will never be able to climb?
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metoliusmunchkin
Feb 18, 2002, 2:20 AM
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Actually it's Qui a coupé le fromage?
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climberchic
Feb 18, 2002, 2:43 AM
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lol, Greta
I think he meant "le grande cheese" Francois LeGrande (sp?). *See thread title
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jds100
Feb 18, 2002, 8:44 PM
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Young Logan (pushfurther), your question of why people should be concerned with chipping comes from the small and selfish mindset that makes it harder for those of us who are working to make climbing understandable and acceptable to the people who manage local, state and federal lands. These people don't like wanton degradation of the resources they are managing, and if they think it's "no big deal" to the climbing community if the resource gets degraded anytime somebody wants to "comfortize" a route, then climbing will continue to be a hard sell as an acceptable use.
What about your climbing resources there in Oklahoma? Most people in the state don't use them, so is it okay to vandalize them, or flatten them into a playground that more people will use?
[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2002-02-18 12:45 ]
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pushfurther
Feb 18, 2002, 11:18 PM
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i'm just saying that people are quick to decide from behind their computer screens whether this climber chipped a route, or whether this climber should be ashamed of smoking pot.
nobody caught legrande with implements of destruction in his hand. it might not have been him. innocent until proven guilty..
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jds100
Feb 19, 2002, 12:38 AM
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I don't disagree about "innocent until proven guilty", but that isn't what your previous post said.
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climberchic
Feb 19, 2002, 2:10 AM
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hey push,
You're right. It is alot easier to jump on the bandwagon than it is to fall off it.
(...unless, of course, you jump for the bandwagon and miss, thus getting caught up under the wagon wheel which is no fun either)
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pushfurther
Feb 19, 2002, 5:03 AM
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my first post was more of a "don't worry what he does, just climb" sorta thing.
yes, chipping is wrong. just because legrande did it doesn't mean i'm going to start tearing up chandler park because i can't send a problem..
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joemor
Feb 25, 2002, 2:06 AM
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vous le vous couche avec le connard
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metoliusmunchkin
Mar 3, 2002, 11:18 PM
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Actually it's Voulez-vous coucher avec le cannard?
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