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Moonlight
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timpanogos


Sep 25, 2003, 11:09 PM
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Moonlight
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Is the approach to moonlight the same as to prodigal? Get up by the cliff base then head right instead of left? Or do you start up the road a bit father than the big bend parking lot?

Some one told me that you can aid straigh up to the rocker block and haul from there without quite as much effort - or is the ramp the only way?

Chad


chitlinsconcarne


Sep 25, 2003, 11:20 PM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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I don't remember the approach except that it seemed short and obvious.

You can haul straight up to the rocker block. This route is really fast and straightforward, it seemed funner to do in a day or fix one day and gun the next than haul a bunch of stuff up for a camp out.

Either way, its a really fun route.


timpanogos


Sep 25, 2003, 11:43 PM
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Dang,

I was just reading something from Josh, about how going light clicked for him one day.

I need to buck up, drop the security way over rack/blanket, and go for it! I want to solo this wall, hows the 5.7 slab off the top for solo? Is the start real miserable for setting up an anchor? Is there a way to aid around that 5.9 first pitch?


Will this route be busy Oct 1 to Oct 15 or so?

Chad


ep


Sep 26, 2003, 9:38 AM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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I plan to be over there around that time and intend to climb Moonlight. But you know, I want to camp out on it. Sit in the portaledge, sip my beer, revel in the beauty of Zion. I've only soloed one grade V as a push (at night) and it turned into a death march that damn near wiped me out (thank you to whomever left that gallon of water on top of the route). No way single push for me, I'm going to bog up the route for at least one night.

Approach information is easily found on the web. Take a second pair of shoes/sandals.


rockprodigy


Sep 26, 2003, 9:57 AM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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Just do it. Moonlight was my first wall solo, I did it in about 14 hours, no fixing, no nothin'. The approach starts further down the road from the parking lot. It's super obvious.


rockprodigy


Sep 26, 2003, 9:57 AM
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Just do it. Moonlight was my first wall solo, I did it in about 14 hours, no fixing, no nothin'. The approach starts further down the road from the parking lot. It's super obvious.

Oh, yeah, the 5.7 pitch is super easy, well protected, and short.


brianinslc


Sep 26, 2003, 10:22 AM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Is the approach to moonlight the same as to prodigal? Get up by the cliff base then head right instead of left? Or do you start up the road a bit father than the big bend parking lot?

Some one told me that you can aid straigh up to the rocker block and haul from there without quite as much effort - or is the ramp the only way?

Not the same approach, but, you can get off the bus in the same place (or just up the road a tad). Theres a huge trail with carsonite posts with arrows pointing the way. Easy money.

You can't really aid all of the ramp. There's a section or two that you have to free climb on low angle friction with no pro. Its easy, but, not aidable, IMO.

Aid straight up to the rocker? Dunno what you mean. Its way easier to fix from the rocker down to the ground and then jug back up the next day (or do that work the same day), after doin' the first three pitches with a light rack/load and not hauling.

Hauling from the bottom start of the first pitch is kinda ugly. Better to try to position your haul bag directly below the tree anchor area at the top of the first pitch then whip the rope around and haul straight up, rather than on an angle thru a bunch of bushes, etc. Or talk someone behind you into clipping your rope into your bag.

Then walk your bag over to the start of the second pitch.

Really, I think the best way to solo this route, if you think you'll be slow, is to climb the first three pitches to the rocker block without a bag, then rap off and come back butt early (or late) the next day and get established on the route from the rocker block (or do this all in the same day). That way you're faster and have less hauling cluster, and you don't clog up the route quite as much for faster parties (dropping off the rocker block, hookin' up your haul bag, then hauling will give parties a chance to get by you at the rocker block).

You might also consider just fix and fire too.

Brian in SLC


joe


Sep 26, 2003, 10:36 AM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Is there a way to aid around that 5.9 first pitch?

pay attention to route finding on the second pitch or you will end up heading to sheer lunacy, which heads straight up. for moonlight you have to bust a right somewhere. bring your rockshoes as you may have some freeclimbing to do.

In reply to:
Will this route be busy Oct 1 to Oct 15 or so?

yes. this could prove to be the crux for you.


brianinslc


Sep 26, 2003, 11:46 AM
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In reply to:
pay attention to route finding on the second pitch or you will end up heading to sheer lunacy, which heads straight up. for moonlight you have to bust a right somewhere. bring your rockshoes as you may have some freeclimbing to do.

Bit hard to miss, but, yeah. If you find yerself going up a semi flaring chimney, instead of stopping short at a bolted belay anchor at the bottom of said chimney, then you've gone to far "up". Look for the bolt ladder traverse out to the right, angling up toward the "rocker block".

Lunar X goes straight up. Sheer goes up the short chimney then takes a hard left for a whole pitch. Then up (great route, btw, but would suck to haul on it, a good candidate for fix 'n fire).

Crowds will be the crux. I've seen no less than 8 parties waiting to start that time of year...take a number!

Brian in SLC


rockprodigy


Sep 26, 2003, 11:48 AM
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Really, I think the best way to solo this route, if you think you'll be slow, is to climb the first three pitches to the rocker block without a bag, then rap off and come back butt early (or late) the next day and get established on the route from the rocker block (or do this all in the same day). That way you're faster and have less hauling cluster, and you don't clog up the route quite as much for faster parties (dropping off the rocker block, hookin' up your haul bag, then hauling will give parties a chance to get by you at the rocker block).

Gee Brian, I don't know about your numbers here. If you're going to fix to rocker blocker, you only have about 5-6 pitches left...if you need two days to solo 5-6 pitches of A0...uhh.... If you have your heart set on hauling and bivying, there's no point in fixing...you'll run out of route before you get to bivy. or...

In reply to:
You might also consider just fix and fire too.

Consider a weekday.


brianinslc


Sep 26, 2003, 12:53 PM
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Gee Brian, I don't know about your numbers here. If you're going to fix to rocker blocker, you only have about 5-6 pitches left...if you need two days to solo 5-6 pitches of A0...uhh.... If you have your heart set on hauling and bivying, there's no point in fixing...you'll run out of route before you get to bivy. or...

Mike, there's a bell curve. I suspect a bunch of us are sorta in the middle of it. Then, they's some folk out in the 3 sigma range, on either end. I've known parties of two take three daze for Moonlight. Then there's you. Either end of the bell curve, baby...

Not uncommon for a typical soloist in Zion to burn a couple hours or more per pitch (even more if you've been on the cover of a climbng magazine, har har, no offense meant Ms Pattagucci ad). Do the math. Cold in the am, none too much daylight this time of year...have to rap down and free a stuck haul bag, add a few more hours....

I know it sometimes smacks of elitism, and, I certainly ain't the gift to climbing like some folks I know (MA!), but, I wish sometimes folks would get "good" prior to jumping on the classic aid routes in Zion. Go get your system dialed first. Practise. Get strong and fit (uhh, geez, should take that advice m'self!). I dunno. Passing the same party two daze in a row as they are liesuring in a ledge three pitches off the ground. Ugh. I guess I wish the herd would move a bit more efficiently sometimes. Or, pick sometime obscure to hang out on. The lines for some of the trade routes, and the human cluster are pretty amazing. Style. Heavy sigh...

What the hey, its all fun.

Brian in SLC


timpanogos


Sep 26, 2003, 1:17 PM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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Big mistake, looked at the weather forcast for next week in zion! Wow

Summer daze!

Ok, lets just say some gumby got fixed to the rocker block one day, and was feeling commital for 2nd day (i.e. single rope commital) just do the darn thing. Would I be hating life cleaning on rap?

Chad


flamer


Sep 26, 2003, 2:14 PM
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In reply to:
Big mistake, looked at the weather forcast for next week in zion! Wow

Summer daze!

Ok, lets just say some gumby got fixed to the rocker block one day, and was feeling commital for 2nd day (i.e. single rope commital) just do the darn thing. Would I be hating life cleaning on rap?

Chad

Answer; Nope! Dude! I almost always rap the lead line to clean. That rapping on the hauler sh*t is beat! The only pitch on Moonlight where Rapping the lead line would suck is the bolt ladder, It travese's big time!
You asked about the 5.7 pitch at the top...It's cruiser no worries.
Did you know this route goes in 6 pitch's w/60M cord??

One thing though Bro; You should look very long and hard at your abilities BEFORE trying to solo this route with one rope....It would not be fun to bail from with one cord...you'd leave alot of gear.
Have FUN!!!
josh


timpanogos


Sep 26, 2003, 2:24 PM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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Thanks Josh

ok, 8mm static rap line coming up.

yea, saw the traverse, it's below the rocker block, figured if I fixed to 3 one day, I could jug/drop the extra rope 2nd day and pick it up later. But maybe I'll give that old shoe string stuff a try.

Hey some beta

http://www.bigwall.com/mlbbeta.html

Says I need a cam hook or low balls to get through the roof on pitch 2.

I know cam hooks are a no-no down there - will I really need low balls (or the cam hook)?

Chad


flamer


Sep 26, 2003, 2:39 PM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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No you DO NOT need a cam hook! If you can do a couple of bouldery 5.8 moves you can do it with a black alien followed by a BOMBER nut. Otherwise take a #3 loweball.
josh


atg200


Sep 26, 2003, 5:26 PM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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chad - how many grade V walls have you soloed? and you are thinking about soloing one with one rope? madness.

// fixed typo. yikes.


timpanogos


Sep 26, 2003, 5:47 PM
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No rope? wow, that would be madness.

I was thinking more of one lead rope, cleaning on rap, verses rapping 2nd line and jugging lead on clean.

The commitment part was , one rope, no bail, without leaving lots of gear, like Josh pointed out.

Chad

P.S.

just got back from the BD store, they have a beal - "trail line" 60 meter, 8mm - it's a black beauty and now mine.


atg200


Sep 26, 2003, 6:31 PM
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Re: Moonlight [In reply to]
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i meant one rope. oops. scary typo.

i still tihnk soloing moonlight with one rope without a history of success on things like this is madness.


mikeehartley


Sep 28, 2003, 5:48 PM
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timpanogos,

If you climb to the Rocker and fixed to the ground beware: there is a tiny roof ~30' up where many (like me) get their bag hung up and need to rap all the way back down to it. I seem to remember a set of anchors up about 50', which I did not use but wished later that I had.

If you are soloing, the ledge above the chimney pitch is fine without a ledge. I had one but didn't bother setting it up. You can make it to the top in two very long 60m pitches from there.

Have fun!


rockprodigy


Sep 28, 2003, 7:28 PM
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What the hey, its all fun.
Brian in SLC

I merely encourage all to strive for his or her best....


bigdan


Sep 29, 2003, 10:54 PM
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Moonlight is the most straightforward wall route I've done. Nothing tricky, no reachy moves. No cam-hooks or lb's needed for sure, Just cams and (if you want them) nuts. On one of the upper pitches I remember placing 14 orange TCU's in a row! Great fun.

Yeah, it sucks when people take a week on a short wall, but hey, if I felt like taking that long I wouldn't want anybody getting on my case. What's frustrating in Zion is how everybody clogs up the same 3 or 4 routes every weekend. That place is huge! Spread out! Go backcountry, or up canyon, or to the Court, or Kolob, and you'll be totally alone. There are so many A2 or less routes in Zion that there's no need to have a line of eight parties. I was lucky last year - we drove up the canyon one Saturday in December and had the canyon all to ourselves, so we hopped on Moonlight.


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