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A new 5.14 trad line...
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tonydevo


Sep 26, 2003, 11:40 PM
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A new 5.14 trad line...
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So this strong guy sends a roof crack in Italy's "little Yosemite" on PREPLACED gear and calls it a 5.14 TRAD route....

I suggest you should have place the gear yourself to call it a trad line whether it be a 6m gritstone arete or a 60m Yosemite splitter. What's the difference between clipping a bolt and a bomber preplaced cam? A seam full of rotten heads and beaks would be more trad like but solid 2" cams are nearly equivalent to bolts!

Much respect to the talented Didier but call a spade a spade!

Did Ron Kauk call Magic Line a trad route? Dunno. I call it a safe, fixed/preplaced pro route.

Anybody know how many leader placed peices are needed on famous lines like Grand Illusion, Book of hate, Sphinx crack etc? :?:


tanner


Sep 26, 2003, 11:55 PM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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I thought on trad routes you had to place gear as you climb. If not its just a sport route with clean gear.


bigdan


Oct 2, 2003, 9:13 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Anybody know how many leader placed peices are needed on famous lines like Grand Illusion, Book of hate, Sphinx crack etc?

Most people who do Sphinx Crack use preplaced gear. Kinda lame. I mean, the climbing is still impressive, but half the difficulty of trad is placing gear on lead.


igcuesta


Oct 2, 2003, 9:32 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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A pic of the route:

http://www.8a.nu/eng/pics/greenspit.jpg


tarzan420


Oct 2, 2003, 9:36 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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better send it on preplaced gear and call it a trad route than to bolt it and call it a sport route.

So what i'm saying is, as long as said climber doesn't prevent you from climbing it how you want, what does it matter?


bandycoot


Oct 2, 2003, 10:13 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Most people who do Sphinx Crack use preplaced gear. Kinda lame. I mean, the climbing is still impressive, but half the difficulty of trad is placing gear on lead.

I think that it's"kinda lame" that you have to demean other people's climbing. Can you climb Sphinx Crack? At some point it becomes too difficult to set gear while climbing along a crack system, at which point people use preplaced gear. It may not be a "trad route" in the traditional sense, but using your logic you're kinda lame if you've ever clipped a bolt on a face climb since that apparently demeaned the climb. I mean half the difficulty of climbing a face is onsight soloing it right?

It may be a new 5.14, that's cool! I wish I could climb that hard! Congrats to the guy that climbed it no matter what gear it was on!

Josh


hugepedro


Oct 2, 2003, 10:21 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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I'd say it can be called a trad route, and it can be a 5.14, but it has yet to be led. There's a FA available for anyone who can do it. I know my lame arse never will!


buckyllama


Oct 2, 2003, 10:26 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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Yep, he pinkpointed a 5.14 trad line. Way cool ascent and in appropriate style imho. He reported his style of ascent accurately (pre-placed gear), he reported the type of climb accurately, and is probably rightfully proud of his achievement. I doubt anyone would deny that placing gear as you go would be an even better style of ascent but that doesn't detract from what was done.


cracksniffer


Oct 2, 2003, 10:43 AM
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Re: A new 5.14 trad line... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
A pic of the route:

http://www.8a.nu/eng/pics/greenspit.jpg

Looks like Kauk. Painter pants and everything.


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