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tendertendons
Oct 6, 2003, 2:41 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Sep 11, 2003
Posts: 47
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Hi all,
I was wondering if any of you have ice climbed out at Schooner lake? The Toronto Section of the ACC has some beta on their site and some of the longer WI3-4 stuff looks fun. Particularily a 95 m climb thats considered a classic. So my question is 2 part:
1) Have any of you camped out there and how accessible is the winter crag? Should we pay for the snowmobile ride out?
2) If we're running 100-150' pitches what's a reasonable ice rack? I have 3 16 cm BD Turbos now but it looks like that will only be good enough for one belay station.
Thanks in advance.
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stevo
Oct 6, 2003, 3:06 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 99
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Schooner lake,
It is a long ski in with many up and downhills if you follow the ACC directions. Some colourful locals told us it was better to take the road on the right instead of the road on the left and then ski along the lakes, much flatter. I figure this is good advice, I would recommend a map for this.
Camping and climbing there a few days is the preferred method, although my friend and i didn't do that. We preferred to ski far and carry less, then to ski with all that weight. You want to time this right, make sure the other conditions of ice falls in the area are good before you venture into this area.
I wouldn't use a snowmobile, as it is only a 10km ski. As far as a rack, when I was climbing in that area we were carrying nine ice screws. I never remember putting 3 screws into a belay anywhere. We often used trees and whatever for anchors, had a few pins. I would not carry this many ice screws now.
In that roughly same area I would recommend diamond lake and Bon echo. Bon echo has some killer potential for harder ice/mixed lines. But I didn't have the skill back then, and now I live too far. As well, the colourful locals told us about a number of other climbed and unclimbed pillars in the area.
Have a good time.
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