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is the petzl grigri safe?
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climbing_the_suburbs


Oct 6, 2003, 9:26 PM
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is the petzl grigri safe?
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I was told recently the the petzl grigri is not a self locking device. this had me worried because i used the grugri every week to self belay and was wondering if anyone knew about a accident realting to the grigri.
(no i was not being dumb and ignoring the instructions just ignorant, the instructor had told me to use it the way i did.)


cthcrockclimber


Oct 6, 2003, 9:49 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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The gri-gri is one of the safest devices out there, and no i have not heard of any accidents other than those involving human error


Partner chugach001


Oct 6, 2003, 9:52 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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I know of two people who have taken long falls while rapping on thin lines (~8-9mm) with a grigri. One ended in broken bones.

From what I know, it works as a self-belay on fat lines (10mm+) but is not billed as such.
Jeff


dsafanda


Oct 6, 2003, 9:52 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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If used by an experienced climber with commone sense and caution...YES!

That's pretty much true of all climbing equipment. Nothing is totally idiot proof.


climbhigh2005


Oct 6, 2003, 9:52 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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Yes.. gri gris are extremely safe as long as you load them right and make sure the belayer doesnt get lazy...


grigriese


Oct 6, 2003, 10:03 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I was told recently the the petzl grigri is not a self locking device. this had me worried because i used the grugri every week to self belay and was wondering if anyone knew about a accident realting to the grigri.
(no i was not being dumb and ignoring the instructions just ignorant, the instructor had told me to use it the way i did.)

Grigri's are pretty safe (depends on who is using it really) but they are not intended for self belaying. You may want to consider a device that is specifically designed for soloing/self-belaying.


monkeyarm


Oct 6, 2003, 10:14 PM
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I have had gri gris fail on a couple separate occasions. Don't like them and wouldn't recommend anyone using one


tendertendons


Oct 6, 2003, 10:30 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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Grigri's are safe so long as you don't have to worry about impact forces on the protection. Don't use a Grigri for belaying a trad leader because the device allows very little rope to feed through it when the cam locks up. On the surface this might seem like a blessing since it can save you rope burn on your brake hand but in reality, the extra few inches of rope that feeds through a tube, munter, plate, etc provides a more dynamic belay thus lessening the impact forces on the whole system.
I have a grigri but only use it for newbies who I don't trust to keep their brake hand where its suppose to be and I never use it for trad.

:roll:


revdeuno


Oct 6, 2003, 10:34 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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grigris are very safe. I prefer people use mine while belaying me. Theyre pretty much indestructable as well. It is in fact self-locking, but it won't lock if the rope is being fed through it slowly, which is a good thing for belaying the leader.


petsfed


Oct 6, 2003, 10:43 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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Gri-gris are nearly fool-proof in the hands of an experienced climber, well versed in its nuances. A beginner should never belay a leader of any sort with a gri-gri, and they should be avoided in many trad situations. If the gear is bomber, a gri-gri is a valid device for trad, so long as you remember the "hop" aspect of catching a fall. Do not use one if you don't want to see just how bombproof your gear is.

As for self belay, here's what I've picked up (mind you I only self belay with a gri-gri whilst aidclimbing):

You must tie backup knots. Very important.
You must fall upright, or modify the device so if you fall inverted it does not cross load the carabiner. Very important.
You must rig it correctly every time. Very important.

For the first two reasons, I wouldn't use it for free climbing self-belay unless toproping. Even then, I would have a preference for a true ascender, like the venerable Gibbs, rather than the gri-gri. Better still (in the TR situation) would be a prussik or other friction knot, but you have to keep those tight on the rope at all times or some very bad melty things can happen.


thehardnailer


Oct 7, 2003, 6:59 AM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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As you can tell alot of folk's just don't read the post the same way others do. The gri-gri is a great sport belay device, when you rule out human error, butit is very dangerouse for self belay. Due to the nature of the self belay the slake end of the rope (the part you would normaly have in you'r brake hand) could cross over the top of the cam and hold it in the open position(just like when you have to throw your climber a mile of slake to make a clip so you keep it closed with your finger) Only use a device that is intended for self belay.


onelung


Oct 7, 2003, 7:15 AM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
As you can tell alot of folk's just don't read the post the same way others do. The gri-gri is a great sport belay device, when you rule out human error, butit is very dangerouse for self belay. Due to the nature of the self belay the slake end of the rope (the part you would normaly have in you'r brake hand) could cross over the top of the cam and hold it in the open position(just like when you have to throw your climber a mile of slake to make a clip so you keep it closed with your finger) Only use a device that is intended for self belay.

Sorry dood, not true. I have self belayed off the gri for awhile. No I do not trust the device wholly so I ty into knots along the way. I have fallen everyway you can, but a knot will NOT pass thru.

Even on multipitch if the gri falls apart (has this ever happened) you are still tied in and will have ample opportunity to send!

I am bill


pudding


Oct 7, 2003, 9:38 AM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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I hope most people have read the guide book for the gri gri and found in it the part that says it is not a self locking device, when they are new they can be alright, and i feel too many people rely that they will always lock, but as it's been said the rope can be twisted in a funny way to cause it to allow the rope to run through. however as they get older and worn rope will begin to slip through the device even when in locked off position, and this is a very good time for them to be replaced or some bad accidents can happen.


gregr


Oct 7, 2003, 10:00 AM
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Grigris are not regarded as entirely safe for ropes with diameters of less than 10mm


rangertau


Oct 7, 2003, 12:50 PM
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Gri gri is very safe. It is not designed as a solo device, but a VERY experienced climber can utlize it as such. Times I have heard of the Gri gri failing usually are caused by reverse routing of the rope (happens way more than people realize, and they usually are loathe to admit it when they drop their leader) and by using ropes with too small a diameter. Read the instructions! It it not designed for less than 10mm. Also, I discount that a gri gri wears out over time and will pass ropes easier. gri gri's are tough, and designed on the same principle as a seatbelt. They will wear out from getting banged around and DROPPED before the cam system does. I will admit that a gri gri is not the best rappel device, and that the plastic handle is a possible fail point (though the system will not fail) for controlling descents.


Partner tim


Oct 7, 2003, 12:56 PM
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Re: is the petzl grigri safe? [In reply to]
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Use the device as instructed and it will work as advertised.

Use it for solo self-belay in the wrong kind of a fall, or with too small of a rope diameter, and you won't be long for this world.

It's really very simple in that respect, and Petzl says so upfront.

I've done some pretty stupid things with a GriGri (ice solo belay, upside-down aid falls, etc.) and I'm still here, but I wouldn't recommend following my bad example. It's a compliment to the device, for sure, but I still use a B52 myself for all but the most drawn-out aid leads.


In reply to:
I was told recently the the petzl grigri is not a self locking device. this had me worried because i used the grugri every week to self belay and was wondering if anyone knew about a accident realting to the grigri.
(no i was not being dumb and ignoring the instructions just ignorant, the instructor had told me to use it the way i did.)


darkside


Oct 7, 2003, 1:57 PM
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I was told recently the the petzl grigri is not a self locking device.
True. Petzl does not make that claim either.


In reply to:
......the instructor had told me to use it the way i did.)
I would submit one of two possibilities here. Either the instructor was giving bad advise, or that you do not fully understand the activity of rope soloing. I would suggest you cease this until your experience or knowledge is more suited. Find a partner.


In reply to:
Grigri's are pretty safe (depends on who is using it really) but they are not intended for self belaying. You may want to consider a device that is specifically designed for soloing/self-belaying.
Good advise worth following if you intend to continue.


In reply to:
You must tie backup knots. Very important.
You must fall upright, or modify the device so if you fall inverted it does not cross load the carabiner. Very important.
You must rig it correctly every time. Very important.
More good advise here. Tying backup knots pretty much goes without saying for any solo device. Rather than modifying the gri-gri, a better option is to use a DMM belay master to prevent a cross loaded biner.


In reply to:
Grigri's are safe so long as you don't have to worry about impact forces on the protection. Don't use a Grigri for belaying a trad leader because the device allows very little rope to feed through it when the cam locks up. On the surface this might seem like a blessing since it can save you rope burn on your brake hand but in reality, the extra few inches of rope that feeds through a tube, munter, plate, etc provides a more dynamic belay thus lessening the impact forces on the whole system.
I have a grigri but only use it for newbies who I don't trust to keep their brake hand where its suppose to be and I never use it for trad.

:roll:
On the whole I would agree with tendertendon's reservations of using a gri-gri for trad but more because most climbers do not give a good belay. I previously had reservations and contacted Petzl. Here are some considerations on belaying a trad leader.
In reply to:
.....we must takes many variables into consideration. I think what you are hinting at is the question of a static belay, implying that a tuber style belay device like a Reverso, ATC, or Sherriff is somehow dynamic, or absorbs energy when braking, more so than a Grigri. The false notion that this lack of energy absorption somehow makes the Grigri less safe or suitable for only certain types of climbing (sport) is a thought, unfortunately, that many climbers have. Well this idea is just that - a false notion - meaning not true. Any tuber style belay device locks up as sharply and quickly as the Grigri if properly used.
......Energy absorption can be taken into account on climbs where the pro is sketchy in a variety of ways. First is your rope; the chief duty of energy absorption lies with this important piece of equipment. Climbing on an old tattered rope can largely increase the peak force felt on your highest piece. Shock absorbing lanyards like the Petzl Nitro or a Yates Screamer can be employed to limit peak force on a shoddy piece of gear. Using long runners or placing gear to avoid drag enables the full amount of paid out rope to be used in energy absorption (typically the larger the fall the softer it is because there is more rope to absorb the energy). Finally, the belayer's braking technique can greatly dissipate peak force energy, by jumping or springing upwards toward the first piece at the moment of impact. There are many other factors that determine the peak force felt by your highest piece of protection: the other pieces of gear, rope drag, friction on the rock as well as all the carabiners, weight of the belayer, distance of the fall, and the amount of rope paid out. With all that said I believe the belay device to be one of the least important links in the chain of energy absorption. I am sorry that we do not have any hard data to illustrate these ideas more clearly.

To conclude Petzl's position, comes this disclaimer:
In reply to:
......our technical notice that is sold with the Grigri officially points out that this device was developed for gym use and well protected sport routes only. We do understand that climbers have taken certain liberties with equipment and developed applications outside of the parameters of its initially intended use.


climbersam


Oct 7, 2003, 2:14 PM
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I've used a modified grigri for self-belay and have noticed several failings of using it as such a device. I ground down case (not the cam) where the rope exits to the top of the climb. This allows rope to feed through better. Problems are;
1. The device inverts at the harness while ascending (This can be corrected by drilling a hole at the end, and tying the device with accessory cord to your upper body, via chest harness.) When it pops back, it can pop back into your chest hard enough to break ribs or worse.
2. As said before, rope could hold the cam down causing you to drop.
3. Rope can go under the hand release, reducing friction to the point the device won't catch.
4. Even with the modifications, the rope must turn at significant angles when exiting the device, causing lots of drag.
5. Where the case is ground down, a sliver of open space between the plates exists. The rope could pinch and be cut at this point.

This being said, I've use this grigri setup with success.


arrettinator


Oct 7, 2003, 2:26 PM
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In reply to:
Nothing is totally idiot proof.


mustclimb69


Oct 7, 2003, 2:49 PM
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GriGri is safe. it is also a more diverse toolforclimbbing than a $100 cdn soloist.


curt


Oct 7, 2003, 3:01 PM
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Guns don't kill people, people kill people. Get it?

Curt


wiredclimber


Oct 8, 2003, 5:44 PM
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never had one fail on a fat rope (10 mm and up) in 2 years of use. anything less would be sketchy though.


overlord


Oct 8, 2003, 5:54 PM
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if you use it correctly it is one of the safest devices out there. and its not meant for rapping on thin lines. read the instructions. it is not meant for rapping at all. its a belay device. and you can use 9.5mm rope with it too, just the max catch force is lower, but thats not really important if you do sport. on trad, where you can expect longer falls i would use at least 10mm rope.


Partner coldclimb


Oct 8, 2003, 6:25 PM
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The grigri is perfectly safe, but not foolproof. Fools can always find a way around safety.


robbovius


Oct 8, 2003, 6:32 PM
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The grigri is positively the most unsafe device ever. IN fact, just having one in the same climbing area guarantees a fall. If you have one, you should send it to me, and I will dispose fo it for you.

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