|
joegoesup
Oct 10, 2003, 12:18 PM
Post #1 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 197
|
How many cams do you own, and how many is enough? I have about 21 total. I am looking at going to red rock and I know some route require you to build your own anchors which would use up quite a few on the belays. Just checking to see what you all have on your rack?
|
|
|
|
|
cass
Oct 10, 2003, 12:26 PM
Post #2 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2001
Posts: 1956
|
who is the trad mod these days, that use to be my job :P :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
benkiessel
Oct 10, 2003, 12:26 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 173
|
I have 15 cams and "need" more. I usually am climbing with someone else that has gear so it is not an issue, and if i am climbing with someone that does not have gear it is usually an easier climb so i run it out, and try to place hexes, stoppers and tri cams. It really depends on the climb, if the climb in red rocks is a splitter crack for hundreds of feet you need some more cams.
it only hurts your wallet to get more cams and that does not have nerves, so who cares. Right?
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Oct 10, 2003, 1:39 PM
Post #4 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
30 and counting. Basically, if there's a good deal, I jump. (4 cams for $45!). I'll stop when I can go to Indian Creek and not feel like I need more cams.
|
|
|
|
|
ricardol
Oct 10, 2003, 2:56 PM
Post #5 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
as a suggestion ... try to use other gear for belays if pssoble (nuts, etc) .. save the cams for the route ..
.. i have 25 cams .. and will most likely add another set of offsets by next season ..
-- ricardo
|
|
|
|
|
capn_morgan
Oct 10, 2003, 3:09 PM
Post #6 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565
|
:P my rack is begining to take shape..and a life of its own. I have a #3 camalot and #2.5 ,3 F Friend. So what should i look for next. Aside from the random good deals that you just cant pass up... Most of my climbing will be in the gunks and daks for the meantime and I have a tendancy to place alot of hexes and tricams...
Peace
Jeremy
|
|
|
|
|
crankenstein
Oct 10, 2003, 3:31 PM
Post #7 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2002
Posts: 164
|
I've got at least 25, but rarely ever carry more than 10 and often only 6 or 7 depending on the climb.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Oct 10, 2003, 3:58 PM
Post #8 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
I climb in Red Rocks all the time and some things to keep in mind are:
1) the long trad routes have long pitches...many folks just climb to the end of the rope (or near it) and then stop. This eats gear.
2) the rock is such that you don't usually just have "one splitter crack" so there are often several gear options (on moderate routes) in the same vicinity, especially at belays, allowing you to get flexible and use passive pro there.
3) because it is sandstone, you may be reluctant to use your smallest pro when you could use larger, just due to the nature of the rock.
4) tricams work great here in the pockets and horizontal pods.
Also, I do find that hexes will work here (if you already have them) better than they will work at places like the Gunks, J tree, and some others. Some folks may disagree.
You can do the math too...take like a 160 foot pitch. How often do you usually place pro at that grade? Say for 5.8 you place it every 12-15 feet. That would be about 15 peices of pro. Figure 3 more for each belay, that is 20.
The thing people usually do in the red is run out of shoulder length runners...which you will need for the longer routes. Maybe up to 12 for the gear plus some for the belays...if you don't use cordalettes or rabbit runners.
Hope this helps.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Oct 10, 2003, 3:59 PM
Post #9 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
maculated has locked this thread.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Oct 10, 2003, 3:59 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
maculated has unlocked this thread.
|
|
|
|
|
braon
Oct 10, 2003, 4:00 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2003
Posts: 154
|
I have a full set of tech friends(00 to 6), a full set of metolius(00 to 10), a full set of tcus, and extras in hand sizes. I think it's something like 30 cams. Most climbs I just take one set of cams and a set of nuts. If I'm climbing in the Creek, I go with someone who has about the same amount of gear as me. If we need more, it's usually not too tough to beg/borrow the sizes we need from friends.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Oct 10, 2003, 4:00 PM
Post #12 of 12
(1457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
maculated has locked this thread.
|
|
|
|
|
|
How many cams?
