|
tim
Oct 11, 2003, 5:25 PM
Post #2 of 8
(1840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
that is 'The Womb', a 5.11b on the North Face of Looking Glass.
Adam climbed the 2nd pitch of it, and I actually emailed Harrison when I first saw this picture to find out where it was. I'm planning on hitting it next weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
scclimber
Oct 11, 2003, 7:56 PM
Post #3 of 8
(1840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2003
Posts: 159
|
i thought that looked familiar. i climbed the second pitch with adam. since i can't follow .11's we decided to rap from the second belay. looks like a great finger crack though.
|
|
|
|
|
cragmasterp
Oct 11, 2003, 9:09 PM
Post #4 of 8
(1840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 278
|
Next time climb on thru. the section shown in the photo is the sweet 5.9 dihedral that only has one short 5.11 section right off of the belay at the top of the 2nd pitch (the infamous squeeze chimney "womb" move). there is usually a fixed sling hanging in the chimney and many climbers -myself included- do a little A0 here to get to the 5.9 cookies above.
you should definately go to your favorite shop and check out this awesome volume of SE climbing photos by asheville's own Harrison Shull.
states included by chapters: Arkansas, Georgia, Alabama, Tenn., Kentuck, NC, SC, VA, & WV. Featuring real climbers on some of the nicest stone in the states.
|
|
|
|
|
scclimber
Oct 11, 2003, 11:46 PM
Post #6 of 8
(1840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2003
Posts: 159
|
i will definatly have to try that next time i'm there. we thought that the .11 was in the dihedral. can you get any pro in before the squeeze to prevent a factor 2? there are three bolts at the belay but that fall would be rough on a rope.
|
|
|
|
|
ncclimber
Oct 13, 2003, 2:23 AM
Post #7 of 8
(1840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 104
|
Good luck pulling that move most of the locals that have pulled it usually have to work at it for quite a while. It's one of those things your hear around the crag "Dude I finally Pulled thge womb move" I hear its height dependant Don't remember which is helpful(sjhort or tall).
but Aid through it because I here the crack is above it is worth it.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Oct 13, 2003, 10:28 AM
Post #8 of 8
(1840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
I was down for P3, but the two I had with me weren't... May get another chance this coming Thursday. :D
|
|
|
|
|
|
