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adonis_adonis83
Oct 14, 2003, 3:15 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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please help me!
I don't know which one is better for both ice climbing and mountain climbing! :shock: :?:
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blackmountaineer
Oct 14, 2003, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2003
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Fiber? I'm not sure what you mean. You'll have to enlighten me.
Anyway, boots tend to be good for ice climbing OR mountain climbing. Boots that are Ok for both are not ideal for either. Standard compromise between stiffness (needed for ice) and flex (needed to walk.) Also, depends on what you mean by "expedition." Again, compromises... between weight, warmth, breathability. There are a bunch of other threads on the topic. Try searching the forum.
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capn_morgan
Oct 14, 2003, 8:08 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
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not quite sure what you mean by "fiber" but there are two main types of winter mtneering/ ice climbing boots.
you have single and double boots.
as their names imply, a sinlge boots is similar to a normal hiking boot, but they tend to have very rigid soles and may or may not be insulated
double boots consist of two parts, an outer boot and an inner liner. The advantage here is that you can remove the inner liner to dry or wear in the tent etc. Most single boots are leather and to my knowledge almost all double boots have a plastic shell, i have seen a few leather double boots here and there.
now for which is better? I have not seen there to be a huge advantege one way or the other.
both have advatages and disadvateages.
Leather boots tend to be lighter and smaller ie more precise foots control easier to walk in. But they are harder to keep dry, and once they are wet, harder to dry out. Notice i say harder to keep dry, not impossible. tehy also tend to have less insulation than double boots and you loose the ability to wear your liners to bed.
Double boots, due to being plastic are going to be easier to keep dry and have oftenhave more insulation, but they also tend to be larger(outside dimensions) than the comparable leather boot.
Now the most common recomendation is that if you are buying boots for ice climbing then get leather as they are more comfy and easier to fit crampons too, especially if you have big feet( i have heard of people having trouble finding crampons taht fit sizer 12 plastic boots) and if you are going to be doing extended trips to get double boots. Obviuossly these are very broad suggestions. I personally have a pair of insulated leather boots that i really love. They are very rigid and therefore climb ice very nicely. they have enough insulation that my feet stay reasoanble warm..i have been out in them in -10 def F weather without a problem. they do not however get too hot when hiking in warmer weather ( ie desert approach to glacier climb..gotta love mexico) i have never worn plastics for an extended period of time so i can only state my observations from tryign them on, but they felt much more clunky and big.
So..i guess what i am trying to say is that like alot of things in this sport the choice is a personal one. ideally youll have both as they are suited to differnt situations, but most people cant afford both. So for ice climbing and general mtneering i prefer leather. If you have a tendancy to wade through slush or are planning on spending alot of time at very high altitude or in very cold place, i would strongly consider double boots.
Just remeber, your feet can only be as warm as the body they are attached too. If you feed your furnace and protect it fromt he elements, you will be surprised at how warm your toes stay.
:P wow..sorry that was kinda long winded..
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joegoesup
Oct 16, 2003, 3:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 197
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For Ice climbing I like the leather models. They seem to have more feel for technical stuff. I have had a few pairs, and I like my la sportiva K3's the best.
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