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baalzimon
Oct 20, 2003, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2003
Posts: 166
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I was in Jtree on saturday to set up a toprope for some people. I started scrambling up a gully marked 5.2. After 35 feet it felt like it turned into a sketchy 5.5+. I wasn't sure what to do, so I stopped and thought about the options.
I didn't feel comfortable with the downclimb because it was very large, rounded bulges of rock. No good handholds; easy up, hard down. I didn't want to keep going because it felt too dangerous.
However, I had all of my brand new trad gear on my harness (along with every draw I owned, webbing, cord, etc.) I had just bought the gear and was going to practice placing it in boulders or on a climb while on top rope. My roommate had given me a quick lesson on placing, but the crack he used was between the washer and dryer in my kitchen. The only other experience I had with trad gear was a few peeks at other people pro, pictures in magazines, and thinking about how it should all work.
I decided to put a #3 camalot in a big crack next to me, tie in, clip in, and throw the rest of the rope to my friend on the ground for a belay. That #3 was the first piece of pro I had ever placed. A huge wave on confidence washed over me and I easily climbed about 10 more feet up the gulley where I placed a #0.5 and three feet later, a #0.75; eight more feet and in goes a #1. Fifteen feet to the top and I was done.
All the placements looked good to me. I put them in when I could get a good rest and/or felt like I wanted another piece. I liked it more than sport climbing. I could apply pro liberally and really stitch up the crack, rather than being at the mercy of a few bolts. I can see how a piece of gear, even if it is a less-than-ideal placement, can give someone enough mental comfort to keep moving.
Please keep the flames down. I am not an idiot noob. While I am new to trad, I am a good engineer, and an experienced climber. I know how the gear worked, I know what makes a good placement, and I know what to trust and what not to trust. Although what I did was sketchy and maybe a little irresponsible, I feel that I did it slowly, carefully, safely, logically, and rationally.
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tenn_dawg
Oct 21, 2003, 12:08 AM
Post #2 of 8
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
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In reply to: I liked it more than sport climbing. I could apply pro liberally and really stitch up the crack, rather than being at the mercy of a few bolts.
When trad climbing gets REALLY fun is when you are 20 feet out from your last piece of pro, and BEGGING for another placement, and there aren't any to be found.
I have pretty strong trad ethics, but put me in that situation, and I'll be BEGGING for a bolt.
Hahahaha. I've never really felt like I was at the "mercy" of a sport climb. Hahaha.
Take it easy buddy,
Travis
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dpurf
Oct 21, 2003, 12:08 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2003
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It is nice to see a boulderer step in to the world of trad. It is a new game when you have to place your own pro. But I strongly encourage you to find someone with a lot of experience with placing gear. Because what may look good to you, may be a very poor placement.
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baalzimon
Oct 21, 2003, 2:36 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2003
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agreed
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bumblie
Oct 21, 2003, 2:43 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Welcome to the world of adventure climbing. Trad offers a sense of adventure unavailable to sport climbers or boulderers.
Of course highballing isn't adventure. It's just crazy.
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coclimber26
Oct 21, 2003, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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there's a 5.5+...Got any new gear for sale.
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telemarkist
Oct 21, 2003, 8:41 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 182
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what climb was it? congrats!
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jt512
Oct 21, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Nice work. You used your head and improvised to keep yourself safe.
In reply to: Please keep the flames down.
OK, but you get an RC.com Quote of the Week nomination for the title of your thread: "First piece I ever placed was on my first lead."
In reply to: I am not an idiot noob. While I am new to trad, I am a good engineer, and an experienced climber.
And just a wee flame for mentioning that you are an engineer.
-Jay
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