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addiroids
Oct 23, 2001, 12:23 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
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The Nose in sub-4 hours!!
Coming from someone who only "speed climbs" when he has to get to the top of Tahquitz to take a massive dump after last night's dinner at La Cosita, I can truly appreciate the stuff I just read on Rock and Ice's website. While "Climbing" is spraying about who clipped which bolts on which new 5.15g, R&I hit home with like THREE articles about Yos, and Baffin. Get there and read them. It's the Timmy O'Neill, and Dean Potter SHOW!!
www.rockandice.com
Holy El Cap Speed
Fast and Light in Baffin
Yosemite Trifecta (Nose was done w/ #1 cam as biggest gear)
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
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compclimber
Oct 23, 2001, 12:45 AM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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Hey addiroids dont forget to send it on over to news@rockclimbing.com
Just do a small little write up and send it to them, do it so they can "cut" and "paste" it into the news section.
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passthepitonspete
Oct 23, 2001, 4:01 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Back at the end of August before I headed up El Cap, I spent an hour with Cedar in the Lodge caf. Here he recounted to me the details of his and Singer's ascent of the Porter line on Mt. Asgard. Without question, this was the most gripping first person account of a climbing story I had ever heard. Damn, I wish I had a tape recorder. These guys pushed it to the max and very nearly died.
It was a complete and total epic from start to finish. Now, everything I write is as I best remember it as told to me by Cedar, and I'm sure to forget lots of stuff.
The approach I believe is 25 or 30 miles one way. I believe they made THREE round trips before they made their first attempt on the wall. They headed up the wall and found the climbing much more difficult than they imagined. They simply did not have enough aid gear, and had to bail.
Forgive me but I forget the details. They didn't plan to return, but somehow garnered enough enthusiasm to hike back out, grab the rest of their aid rack (lots more pins and heads mostly) and hiked back in.
When they returned to the wall, they found that a HUGE rockfall had obliterated the first part of the route! The gear they had stashed at the bottom was completely buried! Cedar told me this was not a minor rockfall, but a huge "rockfall of the century" or so.
They headed back up and found very difficult and sustained aid climbing. While Singer was belaying he got hit by a rock on his knee which was quite serious and prevented him from leading. He could barely jug and Cedar led nearly the whole route.
They got blasted by a storm, and managed to get themselves into a situation where the only way off was up. Cedar told me he ended up essentially free soloing solid 5.10 choss - the route finding was very very difficult, and the topo Charlie drew for them was hugely inaccurate.
They barely made it back in one piece, and they were just back at base camp. On the 30 mile hike out, Singer could carry almost nothing if anything at all! Cedar laboured under some enormous BFP (big f---in' pack).
Guys, I don't do this story justice. It was the most gripping climbing story I've ever heard. I kept reaching for an imaginary chalkbag under the table, my hands were so sweaty!
I think I've got Cedar's email kickin' around somewhere - I'll hit him up for a trip report.
This ascent is an epic of the same proportion as Jim Bridwell's and Mugs Stump's ascent of Dance of the Woo Li Masters on the East Face of Moose's Tooth back I think in the early 80's.
Cedar is bitchin' beyond belief. He is one bad-ass mofo climber.
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addiroids
Oct 26, 2001, 2:04 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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I would love to be able to climb fast. All in due time. Anyone going to Josh this weekend, look for a red 1996 Honda Civic with Nebraska plates on it. That's me (green rope too). Say hi.
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2001-10-25 22:05 ]
[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2001-10-26 12:56 ]
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elcapbuzz
Dec 4, 2001, 4:41 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460
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What are you guys talking about? Cedar is LIGHT. Just kidding, we did our first record on El Cap together. He's very PROUD. Anyway, pinscar I have to correct you on Lunar Eclipse. Scott Stowe and Steve Gerbardine made the first one-day ascent of the route. Nice try. More details at speedclimb.com.
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passthepitonspete
Dec 13, 2001, 6:03 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
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Hi Cedar
Welcome aboard!
Hopefully YOU can write us a trip report, so you don't have to read my second-hand drivel.
Cheers,
Pete
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elcapbuzz
Dec 13, 2001, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460
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Nice one Cedar, what are you trying to do, stroke my ego? or are you getting me psyched on Baffin? To late, Im allready PYSCHED. Anyway, It's good to see you on RC.com. Maybe with a little help from our friends we can make this site even better. Oh yea, you should try and think of a name for our expedition. How about: "Ape Lords Exp." hahahah, I'm sure you can think of something better.
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passthepitonspete
Dec 24, 2001, 11:21 PM
Post #8 of 10
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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"Visionary?"
"Visionary?"
He's not "visionary," Cedar.
He's FREAKING NUTS!
Have a Merry Christmas, eh?
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elcapbuzz
Feb 17, 2002, 6:20 AM
Post #9 of 10
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 460
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Nuts??
Aren't those the little aluminum doo-hickies that you put in the cracks?
Cedar. WHERE are you? still in Heuco?
I need to talk to you. Email me.
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gekolimit
Feb 17, 2002, 6:51 AM
Post #10 of 10
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Registered: Jan 20, 2002
Posts: 144
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steamed fish? anyone?
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