Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
10mm and 3/8inch interchangeable???
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


climbingbum


Oct 22, 2003, 2:57 PM
Post #1 of 3 (1888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 134

10mm and 3/8inch interchangeable???
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just curious if they are exact. Can I drill with a 3/8 inch bit and place a 10mm bolt. I think I heard that you shouldn't, but i'd like the opinons of peole who know for sure... Thanks in advance,
-J


sandbag


Oct 22, 2003, 3:07 PM
Post #2 of 3 (1888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 1443

Re: 10mm and 3/8inch interchangeable??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

10mm = .40 inches
3/8 inch | .40 inches
(3/8) inches = 9.52500 millimeters

hows that?


boltdude


Oct 23, 2003, 10:34 PM
Post #3 of 3 (1888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 685

Re: 10mm and 3/8inch interchangeable??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not the same size, 10mm is a bit bigger. Don't use the same drill bit.

In reality, in very hard rock, you can probably get away with 10mm bits and 3/8" 5-piece bolts, especially if the 10mm bit is a bit used (hard rock wears down the front edges of the bit and the bits get narrower over time). But it's definitely not optimal, and reduces the strength of the placement.

Also, be forwarned: the Fixe 3/8" wedge bolts are actually the same as their 10mm bolts, except they have smaller sleeves. A Fixe 3/8" bolt can actually get stuck in a very well drilled 3/8" hole (even drilled by hand as I learned in the Valley). However, if you use a 10mm bit, the same bolts are not likely to tighten correctly since the sleeve may not catch fully.

Stick with 10mm bits for 10mm bolts, and 3/8" bits for 3/8" bolts.

And, just in case you're wondering, NEVER use a 1/2" bit with a 12mm bolt, a 1/2" bit is 13mm. I've pulled TWO Petzl Long-life bolts (one of the most bomber bolts out there and all but impossible to remove if installed correctly) by HAND (one in the Valley, one in Josh)!


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook