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Access Fund's e-News #36 (October 2003)
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AF E-News #36 -- October 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future

To view E-News on AF website, see

1. Indian Creek Update - BLM Seeks Public Comment on Indian Creek Corridor Plan
2. Petzl Hosts Roc Trip Gunks, Second Annual International Climbing Festival
3. Climbers' gathering in Bishop:
4. Endangered Climbing Areas Web Page Updated
5. Access Fund Memberships and Merchandise for the Holidays
6. Featured Corporate Partner -- CLIF Bar
7. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
8. Kickin Access Friction Addiction
9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
10. The Access Fund Has Moved

1. Indian Creek Update - BLM Seeks Public Comment on Indian Creek Corridor Plan
The Monticello Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is preparing an
Environmental Assessment (EA) for the Indian Creek Corridor Plan. The Indian Creek
corridor is located 50 miles southwest of Moab, and 30 miles northwest of
Monticello. Bear West, a consulting firm based in Salt Lake City, is preparing this
EA for the BLM. Preliminary issues that have been identified include camping,
climbing, cultural issues, parking, and several others. The BLM received public
comments during the scoping phase of the project, which ended October 24.

Climbers are increasingly seen as indifferent funhogs that just want free camping
without the hassles of agency management. In fact, the BLM extended its initial
scoping period because, in part, it received so few climber comments. Hundreds of
climbers flock to Indian Creek every weekend during the spring and fall and impacts
are increasingly apparent.

The next opportunity for climbers to make known how they feel about Indian Creek
will be after the BLM publishes its Draft EA later this fall, which will specify the
various alternatives to the plan, which the BLM assembled through the scoping
process. Keep your eyes peeled on the Access Fund website for updates, or write
Bear West asking for notification when the Draft EA will be public. Following
publication of the Draft EA there will be public meetings to help provide another
opportunity for climbers to participate in the planning process for Indian Creek.
The BLM's Monticello Field Office is willing to listen to climbers but we have to
speak up and get involved. Regardless, a plan will be written, and your input is

Issues at stake under the recreation plan include:
· Camping fees
· Camping restrictions (your favorite campsite could be closed or restricted)
· Trail access
· Climbing route closures to protect cultural and natural resources
· Conflicts with other user groups
· Human waste issues

OHV and oil/gas issues will not be addressed in this EA because they will be
addressed in the upcoming Resource Management Planning effort by the Monticello
Field Office.

Send your comments and inquiries to:
Ralph Becker or Laura Hanson
Bear West/BLM
RE: Indian Creek Corridor Recreation Plan
145 South 400 East
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111 or

Phone: 801-355-8816
Fax: 801-355-2090

Log on to to download a PDF of the “BLM
Scoping Newsletter” with some general information regarding the scope of the
Indian Creek Plan.

Access to numerous cliffs at Indian Creek is not secure. Approaches to the following
crags cross The Nature Conservancy’s private Dugout Ranch have only remained open
up until now because of the generosity of former owner and current lessee Heidi

Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Supercrack Buttress
Donnelly Canyon
Tricks Wall
Paragon Prow
New Wall
New Wave Wall
Scarface Wall
Love Wall
Power Wall

Over the years, Dugout Ranch owners have allowed climbers to cross their property to
access the world class climbs found on Supercrack and Battle of the Bulge buttresses
(the cliffs are on public land but the approach trails are on Dugout Ranch
property). In particular, Heidi Redd has for decades been friendly to climbers.
However, in recent years the number of climbers at Indian Creek has increased many
times over and a few folks have been outright rude to Heidi and her cowboys.
Moreover, dogs have run wild harassing her cows and horses. If we want to continue
the privilege of access across the Dugout Ranch, owned by The Nature Conservancy
since 1997, we need to monitor ourselves, take care of the land and be respectful to
the BLM, local landowners, and other user groups.

To return the favor to Heidi, please consider the following:

Do not trespass to reach New Wall, New Wave Wall and Paragon Prow. These areas in
particular infringe upon the privacy of the Ranch. Keep a low profile when parking
below and hiking across to Scarface and nearby walls. Be respectful of Dugout Ranch
employees, and keep pets under control when cattle are present. Strive to Leave No
Trace during all your activities at Indian Creek, especially along the Bridger Jack
road camping areas.

2. Petzl Hosts Roc Trip Gunks, Second Annual International
Climbing Festival In North America Attended By Over 400 Climbers--
Over $10,000 raised for the Access Fund and the Mohonk Preserve
(Report submitted by John Evans, Marketing Director, Petzl America)
Petzl America, a leading manufacturer of quality climbing gear, recently hosted Roc
Trip Gunks, its second international climbing benefit in North America, in the
Shawangunks Mohonk Preserve climbing area in New York. The event took place over
the weekend of October 3-5, 2003, and featured a climbing competition to benefit the
Access Fund, a film premier of Pilgrimage featuring Chris Sharma, a film
presentation highlighting the biodiversity of the Mohonk Preserve, a community
clean-up service project, and a synergy of local and international climbers. Roc
Trip drew over 400 climbers for an open-levels bouldering competition that raised
over $10,000 for the Access Fund.

Hank Alicandri, head ranger for the Mohonk Preserve, felt the event successfully
reached climbers with a community message. "Roc Trip was a great opportunity to
speak to an audience made up primarily of boulderers about important impact issues
surrounding their sport," said Alicandri. At Saturday's clean up, athletes from
France and North America worked side-by-side with Petzl staff, removing several
truckloads of trash from the climbing and overlook parking areas.

Sunday's climbing competition was organized into three teams, pitting local
climbers, European climbers, and North American sponsored athletes against one
another for the Access Fund Benefit. Based on point system that converted climbing
points into benefit dollars, 316 locals prevailed on their home turf, raising
$4,850, trailed by the Euro team of 11 raising $3,118 and the Americans finishing
third and contributing $2,275. The overall winner was Petzl UK team athlete Steve
McClure, with an individual score of 695 points. Locals Rich Romano and Felix
Mondugo each racked up 315 points, and Ally Dory was the winner among local women,
scoring a total of 106 points.

"It's great to see over 400 people getting out there climbing and earning dollars
for the Access Fund," said John DiCuollo, Petzl's Roc Trip coordinator. "Roc Trip is
intended as a gathering of international climbers, and this year's event proves that
it's not about how hard you climb, it's about community".

Some notably difficult ascents took place at Roc Trip, with Dave Graham putting up a
new start to Euphoria, the first V12 bouldering problem at the Gunks, and British
climber Steve McClure on-sighting (leading the climb without falling) Survival of
the Fittest, a 5.13 traditional route climbed on natural protection. McClure also
ascended Double Clutch with an extra degree of difficulty, by adding a sit-start
upping the grade to V11.

For festivities, local climber and filmmaker Josh Lowell presented Pilgrimage,
featuring Chris Sharma's bouldering journey to Hampi India. On Saturday night, Tim
O'Neill, the "Clown Prince of Climbing", entertained an energetic crowd with his
comedic performance and a screening of "Climbing for Peas", followed by an after
party attended by over 400 climbers.

Rich Gottlieb, owner of the local Rock & Snow climbing shop, was one of the local
sponsors this year's Roc Trip. Rock & Snow had a record weekend in sales, and as a
result, Gottlieb is donating an additional $1,000 to the Access Fund. "This event
generated a type of energy that empowered everyone to realize that they could do
better, whether it's through climbing or in helping out the community," said
Gottlieb. "This event was, and felt, incredibly non-commercial. It's great that
Petzl is more focused on the community and the climbing than on profiting from this

In addition to the $10,000 for the Access Fund, Petzl and Rock and Snow contributed
$4000 in cash and rescue equipment to the Mohonk Preserve.

3. Climbers' gathering in Bishop:
When: Thursday, November 6th at 6:30 pm
Mountain Light Gallery:
106 South Main Street, Bishop, CA 93514

What: The Access Fund would like to meet with climbers to hear their concerns, get
their perspective on increased use, raptor issues, relationship with land managers,
and to discuss possible solutions.

For more information, contact Deanne Buck, AF grassroots coordinator, at

4. Endangered Climbing Areas Web Page Updated
Thanks to the support of Mountain Gear and diligent work of Shawn Tierney, access
and acquisitions director for the Access Fund, the updated Endangered Climbing page
has been launched with added information and pictures at:

The Access Fund launched the Endangered Climbing Areas campaign to illuminate the
issues and problems facing these special places and highlight the areas most in need
of immediate attention.

Just the names of these important climbing areas are enough to inspire any climber.
All of these climbing areas are classic and face access restrictions due to land
planning, policy changes, cultural resources/endangered species issues, and private
development. Many of these concerns could be remedied by increased climber
involvement and stewardship.

The Access Fund and local climbers have been actively working to preserve or restore
access to all of these areas, in some cases for years. We have identified these
areas in this new format to elevate the sense of urgency and commitment among
climbers to support our climbing opportunities and protect the aesthetic and natural
values of these areas.

5. Access Fund Memberships and Merchandise for the Holidays
Haven't come up with a gift for your climbing partner yet? Running out of ideas for
those climbing buddies who have more gear than they know what to do with? How about
giving the gift of an Access Fund membership? Call 303-545-6772 x107 to donate a

Or if you are looking for the perfect stocking stuffer, the Access Fund O'Piner is
an essential tool that every climber should have. Why? 1) It opens tasty bottled
beverages. 2) It doubles as a hook for that last dicey A4 placement. 3) It sports
our logo etched into a cool replica piton. To order on our secure site, visit

NEW: Access Fund women's shirt -- tapered for feminine fit. High quality preshrunk
100% cotton Silver brand shirts designed for a snug fit and ideal for steep sport
climbs, bold runouts, tendon-tweaking boulder problems or just hanging out. Canary
yellow with Access Fund logo on front and mandala art on back. Available while
supplies last after 10/23/03. (Sizes S-XL) $20.

6. Featured Corporate Partner -- CLIF Bar
Clif Bar has been an active Access Fund Corporate Partner since 1995. They are the
Supporting Sponsor of the 2003 Adopt-a-Crag Day, and their yummy bars have fueled
climbing volunteers across the country.

“The Access Fund is a true champion for the sport of climbing. It’s important
for Clif Bar Inc. to support their organization because no other organization does
more in the interest of climbers through working with land managers and lobbying for
access while also preserving the environment.”

Gary Erickson, Clif Bar CEO

7. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at the minimum
level of $50 will reap the following benefits:

MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope

Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at

8. Kickin Access Friction Addiction
In 2003 and 2004, Kurt and Elaina will again hit the road for the Kickin Access
Tour. The events feature "Friction Addiction" by Kurt Smith, dyno and pull-up comps,
live music by DJ Highball, gear auctions, and raffles. Click to find a Kickin Access event
near you. Please come out, join the party and support the Access Fund!

10/21 Boston, MA @ Boston Rock Gym 781-935-7395
10/24 Orono, ME @ Maine Bound 207-581-1756
10/28 Providence, RI @ R. I. Rock Gym 401-727-1704
10/29 Wallingford, CT @ Prime Climb 203-265-7880 (TENTATIVE)

9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides
up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It
is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join
at Indeed, it is a
benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication
electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and
allocate more funds to advocacy and grassroots work. If you choose to take part in
this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name
and address to with "Remove Vertical Times" as the

Presently, 791 members have requested not to receive their print copy of Vertical
Times -- a savings to the Access Fund of nearly $5000 per year to protect YOUR

To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit

10. The Access Fund Has Moved
Please note the Access Fund's new office address for shipments, deliveries and
visits (effective 9/26/03):

207 Canyon
Suite #201 South
Boulder, CO 80302

We ask that you continue to utilize our post office box for all other mail and

PO Box 17010
Boulder, CO 80308

(Phone, fax and email will remain the same)

1. The Access Fund office in Boulder, CO is the only source of outgoing messages to
the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers.
3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any
of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.

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