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astone
Feb 18, 2002, 8:29 AM
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Registered: Feb 17, 2002
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I read in an obscure, out of print book once that there is a decent multipitch aid route at Smith, but the guidebook just trashes all the aid routes there. Does anyone know the name of the route I am refering to?
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krustyklimber
Feb 18, 2002, 10:22 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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The new guide book, by Alan Watts, lists a few aid climbs but most have fallen itno obscurity, as well they should in my opinion. The rock there is somewhat brittle and nailing is pretty sketchy.
Around the backside, on The Monkey is the most well known aid route at Smith, The Pioneer Route. It goes at 5.7 A1 in the book, but should be called C1 ( I know Dr.Piton, it really should be NBD no big deal. ) as the aid is a bolt ladder. Really cool route! The rappel out of The Monkey's mouth alone should be worth it!
If you need more beta about the route or Smith try sending a PM to my friend smithclimber he would be able to tell you all you need to know.
I hope this helped
Jeff
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climbhigher
Jan 11, 2003, 12:31 AM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
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Just hook your way up any good sport climb...Heheheheeehe. Tell the people who get piss that your just checking on how good those holds really are.
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valygrl
Jan 11, 2003, 5:56 AM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2002
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Dude, the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face is totally fun.
I did a variation - instead of the original 1 or 2 pitch 5.8ish free start up to the ledge in the middle of the route, I aided an 11c crack on the other side of the formation (east side, I think), to the ledge. It's C1/NBD, take a couple big pieces or be prepared for a couple of wide moves. Then it's a 100-ish foot steep bolt ladder to the monkey's mouth, followed by a killer 5.7 1/2 pitch to the top, aptly named "Panic Point."
After that, you get to do a 140' freehanging rappel back to the ground.
Rad and easy at the same time. Two thumbs up.
Anna
(PS, hope this wasn't too much information)
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rollingstone
Jan 22, 2003, 12:03 AM
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Registered: May 22, 2002
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The original route on Picnic Lunch Wall was originally graded V, 5.6, A4, with lots of tied-off pins (larger angles to 1 1/2") esp. on the first pitch. The second pitch is steep, but short and ends at a bolt belay above a roof. The third pitch goes up into a right facing dihedral and then it finishes off north of the highest point of the wall.
While it is only four pitches, if you want to try nailing insecure placements, this is the route for you. The other two routes on the wall date back over 20 years, and I know of no other ascents than the first. Both routes are very thin, and the left-most one (Journey to Ixtlan??) has real death-fall potential, so it is not for the un-initiated.
One can clean aid on the Pioneer route, the West Face (take a hook for the move into the Cave!), or nut the North Face (although the latter two routes can also be done free, at 5.12+ and 5.10d, respectively, I think.)
I did the West Face last year in February, did the North Face some time in the mid-80s, and did Picnic Lunch around 82 or 83...so my memory may be rusty...
Good luck!
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retired
Jan 29, 2003, 4:08 PM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
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I used to do quite a bit of aid climbing at smith and there are good aid lines. It all depends on what you are looking for. If you want to just practice a bolt ladder or if hard nailing is what you're after, the recommended routes would be of course different. For nailing how about Palo verde 5.6 A-3 on the messa verda wall, this route has been horribly retro bolted since the first ascent. It was new years day in 81, my buddy nailed into the darkness while I sat in my butt bag, had to clean it with a mini flashlight in my mouth. We rated it A-4 but when I returned a couple years later to solo it, the second pitch had sprouted many bolts and even a rap anchor halfway up. We had placed none. Great clean aid lines abound all over the monkey, or scare yurself silly on any of the old lines on Picnic lunch wall. Have fun, be safe and if you want specific info e-mail me. Jim
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wonderbread
Jan 29, 2003, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
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Also the Great Roof is an excellent aid climb, plus you can link the first 2 pitches with a 60m rope if you're soloing. Journey to Ixtalan saw a repeat a couple years ago.
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