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vegastradguy
Jun 6, 2003, 10:23 PM
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Anyone have the new #5? Those who have it, have you had a chance to use it?
I've purchased some (#3, #4, and #5), and plan on slinging them with 5mm tech cord (5000lb strength rating). I'm looking forward to being able to protect those nasty offwidths I'm constantly finding myself in (the nicely parallel ones, anyway). I didnt bother with the smaller ones, since I have cams for that, and I know they are specialized.
Any input or comments? I plan on posting mine as soon as I get a chance to check them out.
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davidji
Jun 6, 2003, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: Any input or comments? I plan on posting mine as soon as I get a chance to check them out.
BTW, the #2 is useful too--sure cams cover its range, but how many big, heavy cams do you want to carry?
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vegastradguy
Jun 7, 2003, 12:07 AM
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well, most of my climbing is done at Red Rocks, but the first rock I'll be nearby when I get them will be Yosemite.
so, i'm sure they are bomb in granite, but hows sandstone?
of the off-widths i've been playing on, the cracks have been mostly parallel, so i would think that they'd be nice for it....
i am really curious as to the usefulness of the #5.
and thanks for the input on the #2, i'll put it on my list of gear i'm allowed to buy next year! :evil:
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brutusofwyde
Jun 9, 2003, 5:03 PM
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I have the 2, 3, 4, and 5, Will be getting a couple #1s soon for lightweight backcountry stuff.
Regularly use the #2 and #3, and the #4 is good in both wide OWs and narrow squeeze chimneys, granite and sandstone. All of course require careful placement.
Still need to sling the #5, just got it last week.
Take a #4 if you ever do either Hollow Flake or the Ear on Salathe Wall.
Brutus
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vegastradguy
Jun 9, 2003, 5:15 PM
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okay, so i got my hands on a set of big bros at the outdoor store in st. george on saturday. i'm definitely looking forward to using them, and i'll more than likely pick up the #2 if i like them (which I will, because i'm a gear whore), but i dont know if i'll use the #5..well, I will, but dang, that's a big piece of gear!!!!
anyway, I get my big bros in an hour or so, and i cant wait.
ps- Only 4 days until Yosemite!!! Woo!
pps- thanks brutus!
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jcinco
Jun 9, 2003, 5:24 PM
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The #5 seems sort of useless to me. You should be able to get fully inside the chimney at the #5 size, so you shouldn't need the pro (though it might make you feel better).
The problem with big bros, it seems to me, is that the larger sizes make a really good pull-up bar :lol:
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vegastradguy
Jun 9, 2003, 10:57 PM
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after getting the #5, I will agree that it is a rarity that you would need it. and while you can indeed be in a chimney and not need pro, get about 100 feet from belay in the chimney and have to go another 60 feet to belay, and you'll want something in! also, they make a nice rope pulley for roofs and such.
anyway, that being said, i've got the bros, i slung them with tech cord (that was fun) and have already started fiddling with them. i think the #3 will be really useful, as will the #4 on occasion, and i can see now why people would love the #2 (same as a 4.5 camalot, only less bulky and way lighter, not to mention stronger).
cant wait to get out with 'em! :D
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calpolyclimber
Jun 9, 2003, 11:34 PM
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For the #5, we're talking about a chimney you (or most of you) will most likely be inside. This means that when you place it, it will be in your way (unless you stick it way back in there). Just a thought. I know they are pretty much the only way to protect that kind of crack. I'm mostly just saying this because it occurred to me and sounded really unpleasant. Gotta love offwidth.
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bsignorelli
Jun 9, 2003, 11:42 PM
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See, I would have thought that you could/would place the #5, climb up a few feet and then stand on it. :)
It's like a portable no hands rest :)
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robertbreyer
Oct 22, 2003, 11:55 PM
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:?: Anyone ever taken a fall on a Trango Big Bros?
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howdidshedothat
Oct 24, 2003, 4:58 PM
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not I :D
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jer
Oct 24, 2003, 5:10 PM
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I have all the big bros, and have used the smallest one ever since I have had it. It covers most of the same range as a 3.5 camelot , but is 1/3 the weight. Great for b-country especially when you are saving a wide piece for one cruxy wide pitch.
As far as the #5 goes; I haven't placed it on a route yet, but I have tried. I haven't found a route wide enough yet where there wasn't other opportunities. However; my "gold member" makes for a great coffee table conversation piece. And ya gotta love the icon laser etching of the guy getting his head cracked open on it's shaft.
The #3 always goes with me on anything wide. This teamed up with a #5 Camelot makes a great team.
Jer
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thegreytradster
Oct 24, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Only played with one at Nomads, (J Tree). Thought a jar head from 29 Palms had left his Bazzooka behind :wink:
Make sure no one is within strking distance when you release the spring :shock:
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dingus
Oct 24, 2003, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: For the #5, we're talking about a chimney you (or most of you) will most likely be inside. This means that when you place it, it will be in your way (unless you stick it way back in there). Just a thought. I know they are pretty much the only way to protect that kind of crack. I'm mostly just saying this because it occurred to me and sounded really unpleasant. Gotta love offwidth.
Calpolyclimber...
I watched Sir Brutus of Wyde lead the on sight FA of a virgin crack. He used 1 #4 BB, and then walked the dog with a 9 and 12 Valley Giant. It was a killer climb sent by a master of the Wyde. It may surprise you to find that these climbs can be safe and even enjoyable (in a S&M sort of way). Technique makes them possible. But its the PRO makes them safe and enjoyable (sort of).
That was one fine route Brutus put up... in honor of the pro he called it Wagon Train.
Anyway, in the several times I 've engaged in the Wydeness of climbing with Brutus I have always been thankful for the presence of wide pro. I am living proof that this notion you can't fall out of a chimney is total complete and utter bunk. You can die in a chimney all the same, perhaps even easier as you pinball your way to hell.
Cheers
DMT
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