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offwidthclimber
Feb 12, 2002, 7:06 AM
Post #26 of 45
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Registered: Jan 13, 2001
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sport route - a nice little 10d almost no one would know about. rotten crack @ granite point.
trad route - godzilla/city park 10b at index, wa. killer yosemite style granite jams for 2 pitches. way good.
bouldering - the mushroom boulder traverse, V4. great creation on the water at coeur d'alene lake. took me a while to work out because it's pumpy with a tricky crux mantle exit.
peace out.
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phylp
Feb 12, 2002, 6:07 PM
Post #27 of 45
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Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 175
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This is an IMPOSSIBLE question to answer! There are so many phenomenal climbs. How about some favorites?
I do Lucky Streaks (10.a or 10.d variations) on Fairview in Tuolomne every year or so because it is such a beautiful line. Oz (10.d) on DruG Dome is gorgeous. How can you leave out West Crack (5.9)?
How can you pick just one climb in the Valley! I like longer routes so I guess I'll recommend everybody do Serenity Crack (10.d) followed by Sons of Yesterday (10.a) for 8 great pitches. But I also get a great deal of satisfaction out of doing slabby routes where you need to be intensely focused. A prime example is Green Dragon (11.b R).
One of the most unbelieveably fun sport routes I've every done was She's the Bosch (11.b) in City of Rocks. It just goes up and up, gently overhanging with big jugs. Owen's River Gorge has 5 star sport routes from 5.7 up! Pure fun.
Scariest route I've ever done was Shadows in the Rain (5.10+ X) at the Needles of CA. You do this delicate 5.9- move on crumbly granite looking at a huge groundfall. I didn't know it was rated X when I went up on it!
Boy this question has got me PSYCHED to get outside SOON!
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mikedano
Feb 13, 2002, 8:20 PM
Post #28 of 45
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Registered: Dec 19, 2001
Posts: 388
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Definitely my fav is Kor's Flake at Lumpy Ridge. It's about 800 ft. of mostly 5.7 on beautiful granite. Overlooking Long's Peak and Rocky Mountain NP on a sunny August day with a great friend--truly a wonderful experience.
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rigel
Feb 13, 2002, 9:19 PM
Post #29 of 45
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Registered: Jan 29, 2002
Posts: 81
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my first multipitch, back side of E-rock right at sunset. it was my first time on granite and the view was spectacular.
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timhinck
Feb 14, 2002, 3:49 AM
Post #30 of 45
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Registered: Nov 6, 2001
Posts: 204
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Well, being born and bred in the Southeast, most of my memorable climbs are here.
One that stands out is my redpoint of Total Eclipse 11c at Sunset Park, TN. I worked that thing the whole summer of 2000. It is a hard roof down low (11c) and then a beautiful hand crack (7+) to a crimpy crux at the top (11a). Definantly my longest project so far. Also the view is absolutely breathtaking from the top of that climb. Working that upper crux, you seem to be clinging to a blank wall and you look left and see the river down in the valley and you think..."i am really climbing".
peace out,
tim
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cireyelneh
Feb 14, 2002, 5:18 AM
Post #31 of 45
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Registered: Feb 7, 2002
Posts: 36
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Honestly...I'm so new it's not even funny and my best climb has only been in the gym...BUT...hopefully my partner who is teaching me the Ropes... ...Will take me out to the rock and let me taste and see what I have not yet truly experienced...Let me live the true experience and climb on!...
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jackmguirk
Feb 14, 2002, 2:23 PM
Post #32 of 45
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Registered: Jan 11, 2002
Posts: 32
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Best trad route: "Intimidation" (10C) on Cathedral ledge in north conway nh
Best sport route: "The Legend" (13b) at red river gorge, haven't done it yet but i will next trip, super fun sloper slapping
jay
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hangerlessbolt
Feb 15, 2002, 2:25 AM
Post #33 of 45
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Registered: Dec 2, 2001
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Most of the routes that I have done have been incredibly enjoyable...So to pick one is somewhat difficult...
I guess I would have to go with Cathedral Peak. While it's a 6-pitch trad route that I could do in my 5.tennies ...it was a great experience...
My partner and I hauled enough gear for two nights and the climb itself.
We set up camp in the saddle at the base of the formation.
The next morning we got up at 6:00 for a nice early start. I brought my disposable camera and took pictures at every belay stance.
We got to the summit block, tied in, and my partner "accidentally" dropped my camera 800' off the side of the rock!
We made the walk off and in the beautiful nature of Karma...marmots had eaten the tops of his new boots off that he had left outside of the tent. (I laughed my happy little a$$ off...)
We spent another night there...bouldered and hiked around the next morning. Then packed up our gear and headed out.
It was a great experience...got to do it again sometime...any volunteers...???
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gunked
Feb 15, 2002, 3:29 AM
Post #34 of 45
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 615
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I loved reading about everybody's climbs. When I'm not climbing, I'm usually dreaming of it!
What an unbelievably difficult question to answer!!! My memories of some chosspiles are just as beautiful as some of the big, clean, and aesthetic climbs.
I'll name a few : Nosedive (gunks), High E(gunks), CCK direct (gunks), Hell, every line in the gunks is pretty memorable!
Traveller's Buttress, Bear's Reach, Corrugation Corner @ Lover's Leap. One hand clapping @ Donner. Fairview Dome, regular route, The prow, West face of Leaning tower in Yosemite.
Ice climbs : Left Flow in Lee Vining, Chouinard's Gully in Adirondacks.
Interestingly enough, the only sport climbs that really stick out are Mississippi Moon, RRG and Passionfish, RRG.
Every one of these climbs and hundred's more stick out in my mind for different reasons. I think, in the end, Every purely traditional line I've done stick out a little more just for the feeling of adventure.
I enjoy sport lines, but the thought of showing up to any piece of rock or ice and using and removing just myself and my gear and my partner gets my blood boiling just a bit more.
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mountainrat
Feb 15, 2002, 4:01 AM
Post #35 of 45
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Registered: Nov 22, 2001
Posts: 416
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My first. I was looking for a hiking trail someone suggested, and I spotted these cliffs on the other side of the creek, and they just seemed to beckon to me. I was all alone, and climbed my first pitch that day with a pounding heart, sweaty palms, and Elvis leg like crazy... but that was it. I was completely, hopelessly hooked right then.
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saltspringer
Feb 16, 2002, 10:29 PM
Post #36 of 45
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Registered: Oct 12, 2001
Posts: 274
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I'd have to say Deidre, a 7 pitch 5.7+ in Squamish: my first multi-pitch, first multi-pitch lead and just an all-around enjoyable climb with great protection and lots of opportunities to appreciate the view from halfway up the Chief
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colin
Feb 16, 2002, 10:42 PM
Post #37 of 45
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Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 708
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Glass Gecko
It took me about a month of training\trying to put it up.
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nctxcllimer
Feb 17, 2002, 5:49 AM
Post #38 of 45
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Registered: Dec 1, 2000
Posts: 10
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Tits and Beer,5.9,4 pitches, at Looking Glass, NC. It is on the Sun Wall. There is no vegitation on that part of the wall. It is in the Middle of Pisgah National Forrest in the Blue Rige Mountions (the most beautiful mountion range in the would) I took my 1st leader fall on that one and it took me three or four tries to get the ball to finnish it. Each try with the same partner.
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miagi
Feb 18, 2002, 5:59 AM
Post #39 of 45
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 1087
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1.6 - Hey man im a lazy Bast*rd
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sauron
Feb 18, 2002, 7:35 PM
Post #40 of 45
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Registered: Oct 15, 2001
Posts: 1859
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So far in my puny short climbing career - I'll have to say the most fun climb I've done was White Lightning in Josh.. Yeah, ask hangerlessbolt and nikegirl about me topping out on that thing - but it blew me away...
Some day I'll be able to look back and say "oh, yeah - I coulda done that one in my sneakers.."
- d.
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orngave
Feb 19, 2002, 6:08 AM
Post #41 of 45
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Registered: Jan 26, 2002
Posts: 220
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Well Being fairly new to the sport. Dead girls don't say no, 5/10c. It was fun, it was the first real slopper I have ever stuck.
E.B.
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apollodorus
Feb 19, 2002, 7:03 AM
Post #42 of 45
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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Probably the most memorable climb for me was the Snake Dike. I'd been climbing less than a month, and all of a sudden, I'm leading with 1000' feet of air on the back of Half Dome. It's a pretty amazing rock feature, too.
My first wall was pretty cool: Arrow Direct. The only bad thing was 1. going up YF trail and setting ropes out of the notch and 2. the death march approach.
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sonofspork
Feb 20, 2002, 2:04 AM
Post #43 of 45
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Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 171
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At the top of the Tramway, CA, there is a valley that is largely undeveloped (bouldering only). One of the few problems that is there is called "The Cube". It starts on an overhanging arete and goes to matched edges. With a heel hook, bump the left hand up to a sidepull. Dyno for the lip and then traverse the lip for about 4 feet or so. Awsome route!!!
-sONofSpORk
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runningitout
Apr 21, 2002, 6:16 PM
Post #44 of 45
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Registered: Mar 31, 2002
Posts: 85
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favorite...whats that?
I loved Directissima (which jackmguirk led) and it loved me.
Serenity (Yosemite) rocked, its higher end: Sons of Yesterday tried to rip my feet off, so I didn't like it too much.
My favorite f*up climb was Royal Arches. We didn't bring enough water, so we got dehydrated and I got stupid and ran straight into a boulder, litterally, on the route
(think of a ryhnosaurus trying to nock over a boulder, that was me!)
God am I cool,
Lis
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climbingmusician
Apr 21, 2002, 7:44 PM
Post #45 of 45
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Registered: Jan 4, 2002
Posts: 52
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I think my best climb was one that i did in connecticut. It was a 5 7 i think but it was probably one of my best climbs
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