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yujidude
Oct 27, 2003, 3:47 PM
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I'm currently interested in getting some gear to start sport climbing, but I'm curious how it compares to leading in a gym? I can currently climb 5.10ish, and I'm looking to try some stuff that isn't top roping. If I've never lead outdoors, but I'm proficient at leading indoors, should I be fine? Obviously I'm going to be taking helmets and such, so that won't really be a problem, but I'm a little worried about the transition. Any thoughts?
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ebelay
Oct 27, 2003, 4:31 PM
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Hey Man -
I think the best advise is in your own signature.
Don't rely on what you read here and never exclusively rely on what you've learned in the gym - find an experienced leader to take you out for the first few times. You may have learned sound principals indoors but things are different outside. Sounds like you're pretty safety conscious, that's a good start.
Now, find somebody who's experienced, offer to buy them a beer and go have fun.
Eric
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tucsonalex
Oct 27, 2003, 4:57 PM
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Definitely go with someone experienced, and don't expect to be able to lead 5.10 on real rock because you can in the gym. Climb routes that are well below your limit and don't push yourself until you are solid climbing on real rock.
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cthcrockclimber
Oct 27, 2003, 5:25 PM
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When i started i was doing 5.10 gym, then lead outdoors and could barely do 5.8
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overlord
Oct 28, 2003, 10:57 AM
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In reply to: When i started i was doing 5.10 gym, then lead outdoors and could barely do 5.8
thats about correct. you have jet to experience the thrill (or terror) of leading and exposure. just make sure you go with someone whos done things before...
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rockingnyc
Nov 4, 2003, 2:21 PM
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Good thinking with the helmet. Like others suggest, find someone experienced on the specific routes your doing, and start off slow just to get used to real rock, you'll get up to 5.10 outdoor soon enough.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 4, 2003, 3:32 PM
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I second(or third or fourth) starting well below your limit. Also read up/learn from someone expereince, about the anchor systems used and what to do with them (i.e. eye bolts, cold shuts, chains, etc.). If you are leading, for example, and want to set up a toprope for others, use your own equipment (which could be as simple as 2 quickdraws, one with a locker), DON'T toprope of of the cold shuts. Also, make sure you know how to clean an anchor and rappel.
Josh
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trad_mike
Nov 4, 2003, 3:52 PM
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Another thing to look out for, especially in 5.8 and 5.9 territory, is how clean your falls are. Outdoors is not sanitized like the gym. You can break an ankle on the way down if you fall onto a ledge or big hold. Unless you're leading 10s and above with clean falls or overhanging terrain, climb routes that you absolutely will not fall on.
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overlord
Nov 4, 2003, 3:55 PM
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yes, some "easy" routes have quite an injury potential if you fall, eg ledges, outcrops and stuff. but dont think about falling when you climb (though itll be hard at first), and youll do.
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jt512
Nov 4, 2003, 4:11 PM
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In reply to: If I've never lead outdoors, but I'm proficient at leading indoors, should I be fine?
No. Outdoor climbing involves skills that are not required indoors. For instance, what do you do when you get to the anchors, and find that they're closed chain links, instead of fixed carabiners that you can just clip your rope into and lower? Don't even think about climbing outdoors without an experienced partner. In the meantime get a hold of the book Climbing: From Gym to Crag by Lewis and Cauthorn. It is written specifically for climbers making the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing.
-Jay
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shut_up_and_climb
Nov 7, 2003, 4:52 AM
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i started leading last climbing trip i took. it was my third time climbing, i lead a 5.9 easily. When i went to the gym 3 days later i could lead routes that were said to be 5.10c and 5.10d. i thought bull sh*t, because they were not so hard. the gym is totally different to me, gym is a lot easier. its a good thing your taking a helmet and stuff, its a good habit, i should really get one.
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dynoguy
Nov 7, 2003, 5:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
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In reply to: I'm currently interested in getting some gear to start sport climbing, but I'm curious how it compares to leading in a gym? I can currently climb 5.10ish, and I'm looking to try some stuff that isn't top roping. If I've never lead outdoors, but I'm proficient at leading indoors, should I be fine? Obviously I'm going to be taking helmets and such, so that won't really be a problem, but I'm a little worried about the transition. Any thoughts?
First off never tell someone what grade you climb unless they ask. Sport climbing is very much the same indoors and out except what to do at the achors. I'm not going to explain what to do here. Do a search.
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climb_plastic
Nov 10, 2003, 8:04 AM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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I was climbing 5.11 in the gym when I first went outdoors. I was falling all over the place on my first two warmup routes which were 5.10, including my first 20+ft fall. After that I spent the first day on 5.10 but didn't fall anymore. The next day I was climbing the 5.11s just like in the gym. I still do the same difficulty ratings outdoors as I do indoors. However, I find myself working the routes a little longer and flashing less outdoors because you have to find the holds unlike the gym where they are colored.
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mattdog
Nov 10, 2003, 1:46 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2003
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In reply to: I was climbing 5.11 in the gym when I first went outdoors. I was falling all over the place on my first two warmup routes which were 5.10, including my first 20+ft fall. After that I spent the first day on 5.10 but didn't fall anymore. The next day I was climbing the 5.11s just like in the gym. I still do the same difficulty ratings outdoors as I do indoors. However, I find myself working the routes a little longer and flashing less outdoors because you have to find the holds unlike the gym where they are colored.
Difficulty ratings are definitely what sport climbers are focused on, when we SHOULD be focused on danger. Everyone else is right, find someone experience to go and teach you the ways.
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